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post #1 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Question Question 1 of 3

What should the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels be on a cycled tank?
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 11:23 AM
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Did you see this article about cycling your tank. Lots of good info: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...-cycle-213418/

Ammonia:0
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 40 maximum (less than 20 is generally considered healthy for the fish)
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post #3 of 7 Old 11-13-2013, 11:44 AM
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Nitrate levels are totally debatable. I know mine are at least "40". I put it in quotes because the nitrate test is the least accurate of the three.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-14-2013, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonandJo View Post
What should the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels be on a cycled tank?

0,0,0 with occasional bumps up of nitrate.

Of course that assumes plants are thriving.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-14-2013, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
0,0,0 with occasional bumps up of nitrate.

Of course that assumes plants are thriving.

my .02
Assumes there are plants at all.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #6 of 7 Old 11-14-2013, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys, I was worried as nitrate had dropped to 0, nitrite and ammonia just above 0, but that will be solved with water change tomorrow.

Yes I have plants there going well.
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post #7 of 7 Old 11-14-2013, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonandJo View Post
thanks guys, I was worried as nitrate had dropped to 0, nitrite and ammonia just above 0, but that will be solved with water change tomorrow.

Yes I have plants there going well.

sounds good.

sometimes after nitrates (finally) drop to 0, you get cyano bacteria blooms. If that happens just kill the lights and stop adding food untill it dies off. Then resume with 1/2 lighting and feeding and adjust so the plants thrive but the cyano stays away.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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