Powerhead? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 23 Old 11-07-2009, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention... I installed it and increases the velocity quite a bit but I don't like it facing the front of the tank so I had my LFS order an Eheim oxygen diffuser.
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post #12 of 23 Old 11-17-2009, 08:02 PM Thread Starter
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The LFS was unable to find the diffuser so for the time being I cut the wide angle and added a peice of tubing on the inside the siliconed it back together on the angle I wanted. Diffuser should be arriving this week. I haven't seen any reviews on the Eheim Diffusers so I will post my opinion and if anyone is interested I'll post pics of it in action.
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post #13 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Ok got the diffuser in and it works nicely. There's a nice even bubble wall across the whole back of the tank. However my fish are still gaspy and i've seen the pleko go to the top of the tank and take a gulp of air. What am I supposed to do now?
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post #14 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 08:46 AM
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Have you tested the tank water for ammonia, nitrate, nitrate, and ph? Sometimes gasping fish can be a sign of water quality issues.
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post #15 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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I use the test strips (i know i know) they read clean. I had my LFS do a test about a month ago... they said my water could not be better. It may have changed between then and now. I'll take some to get tested anyway. I read that if you to water changes with warm this may happen, is there any truth to that? I try and make the water going in as about the same temp as the water that already in the tank.

Last edited by JerseyBird97; 11-21-2009 at 09:23 AM.
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post #16 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 10:40 AM
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Are the fish gasping all the time, or just after water changes? I always try to match new water temperature, as closely as I can. Slightly warmer water, IMO, is better than adding water that is colder.
If fish are gasping, only after a water change, a change in ph could be causing the problem.

Do you have test strips now? If so, test the tank water and tap water. Post the results of both test.

You say the lfs tested a month ago. A lot can happen in a months time. I have seem ammonia and nitrites go from zero, to unsafe levels in a day. The test strips are better than nothing, but if you can fork out the money for an API liquid test kit, that would be great. The test kit will last a long time, so in the long run, cheaper than the test strips.
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post #17 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Tank:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 120
Alkalinity 180
PH 7.6

Tap:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 50
Alkalinity 80
PH 6.8-7.2

I haven't really noticed if it's particularly after a water change or not. I'll have to pay attention to that.

Last edited by JerseyBird97; 11-21-2009 at 11:01 AM.
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post #18 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerseyBird97 View Post
Tank:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 120
Alkalinity 180
PH 7.6

Tap:
Nitrate 0
Nitrite 0
Hardness 50
Alkalinity 80
PH 6.8-7.2

I haven't really noticed if it's particularly after a water change or not. I'll have to pay attention to that.
You appear to have some calcareous rock in the tank that is raising the hardness and pH. The tank should not be higher than the tap water, unless you are purposely raising the hardness for particular fish, like rift lake cichlids. You mention oscars, and they do better in acidic water but are adaptable; they were be ideal in your tap water parameters. The difference in hardness between your tank and the tap water could be causing problems with water changes. Fluctuations like this are hard on fish.

I suggest you find what is raising the hardness in your tanks and remove it. It could be the gravel or rocks/shells/coral items.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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The only things in the tank are corse substrate... appears to be some sort of shell and the large rocks that you see in the pictures.
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post #20 of 23 Old 11-21-2009, 11:39 AM
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Sounds like the substrate could be crushed coral. This can raise ph and hardness.As for the rock, you can try placing it in a bucket of water for a few days and test for changes in ph & hardness.What % of water do you change out on water change days? Water changes more often and in smaller amounts, would help reduce the chance of shock, that could happen with large water chages.As far as changing out the substrate, not sure of the best way to do it. Any changes, you will want to make gradualy. Fish can adapt well to slow changes, a sudden change would not be good. Perhaps, slowly change out the subtrate over a couple months time.
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