ph not going up on my new 50g - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 15 Old 08-07-2009, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
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ph not going up on my new 50g

hi iv recently gotten a new 50g tank and have had it for for 2 or so weeks it just finished cycling its got a ph of 7.8 ammonia .25 nitrite 0 nitrate 5 iv been trying to lower the ph to neutral wuth topfin ph down iv dosed probably 170ml of the liquid over the evening though the bottle says to dose 25ml to lower it but it doesnt say how far and thats why iv added 170ml so far. im thinking my ph should be neutral by now but i dont know why its not. any suggestions as to why its not would be helpful. in case it matters i have a fluval 205 canister filter and a top fin 300w heater with just eco-complete gravel in the tank.

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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post #2 of 15 Old 08-07-2009, 11:10 PM
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My tanks run at 7.8, I keep fish that are fine with this ph. Just curious, why are you trying to lower your ph??

If you don't stand up for something you'll fall for anything...
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post #3 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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the ph was at 8.2 before i added the ph down and thats way to high so i was trying to get it more towards neutral. i ended up pooring the whole bottle in just a few minutes ago so so ill see if that does anything but just out of curiosity is there some kind of substrait that can lower it

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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post #4 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 10:19 AM
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I agree with Kymmie.....why are you trying to lower it?

i'm not sure either if pouring ina whole bottle of chemicals will mess up your cycle, it very well may not...but keep an eye on it.....

I've heard there are some subtrate used for plants that lower, ph...but I could be wrong on that one.
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post #5 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 10:20 AM
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Fortunately there are no fish in this tank (I assume), as this process of using chemicals to adjust pH is very stressful on fish and can cause death. There is a reason why your pH is 8.2, and we need to determine this before we can suggest ways to lower it (or leave it alone). Using chemicals to lower the ph will usually not work in the long term due to the cause for the high pH.

What is the pH of your tap water?

What type of fish do you intend to keep in the tank?

How did you cycle the tank? You have an ammonia reading of .25 which would not occur in a cycled tank unless something else has occurred.

You have eco-complete substrate so presumably you want a planted tank, and I wuld agree the pH at 8.2 is going to be very limiting for plants. I'll have some suggestions when you've provided the above information.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #6 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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i tested my tap water and its 7.8 and no there are no fish in the tank, that would deffinitly kill them. i cycled my tank by adding a filter cartrege from my 10g. i was thinking some Boesemani Rainbowfish but they are kind of expensive.

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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post #7 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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i retested ammonia nitrite and nitrate and it all came back the same. since adding the filter cartridge theres always been a light oily film over the surface of the water and i was thinking maybe thats giving the ammonia reading

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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would a household tapwater purifier connected to a faucet work to lower the ph and remove other bad stuffs? i was thinking if it does that would be alot cheaper and i could hook that up when i need to do water changes

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-08-2009, 11:52 AM
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The pH of your tap water is OK for Boesman's Rainbowfish, as these fish prefer alkaline water (pH 7.0 to 8.0 is recommended by most authorities as suitable) so you will have no problems with this fish. [Side note; this species was first introduced to the hobby in (I think) 1983 by our friend and fellow forum member Heiko Bleher, who has discovered dozens of new species in his 35+ years of exploring the very remote areas on this planet. The beautiful Brilliant Rummynose Tetra was named by the late Dr. Jacques Gery as Hemmigrammus bleheri in Heiko's honour since he discovered it in the Rio Negro in the 1960's. Heiko is a great asset to our hobby.]

Water that has a degree of hardness (and I would expect your tap water to be probably moderately hard) contains natural buffers that will work to keep the pH stable. Adding chemicals to adjust it will only do so immediately, then the natural buffering action kicks in and adjusts the pH back to where it was. Eventually as more chemicals are added the buffering capacity is reached and at that point the pH will crash and drop very fast and far. When this occurs, fish in the tank are frequently killed, and even if not they would have been weakened throughout the constant fluctuation as the chemical was continually being added. Such stress frequently brings on disease and health issues. This is why it is not good to use these chemicals with fish in the tank; but it also explains why they are not having the desired effect.

You mentioned the tank being pH 8.2, which suggests there may be something in it that is raising the pH. Rocks that are calcium-based (like limestone, lavarock...) will do this, as will gravels composed of dolomite, crushed coral, or limestone. If you have regular aquarim gravel, it is (or should be) inert, unless it was intended for marine tanks or rift lake cichlids. I would do a major water change to remove all the pH adjusting chemicals.

The addition of filter media to cycle the tank was good, but without a source of ammonia in the tank the bacteria will die off fairly quickly. Fish provide the ammonia, and I personally prefer using fish to cycle a tank when I add bacteria from gravel, filter media, wood, plants, etc. However, you mention a steady ammonia reading so it is coming from somewhere. You should check your tap water; some areas have ammonia in the tap water, and if so, using a good conditioner like Prime that detoxifies ammonia as well as removing chlorine, chloramine and heavy metals will solve this problem. It does not remove the ammonia, it only makes it non-toxic, so the bacteria cycle (supposedly) still functions.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #10 of 15 Old 08-10-2009, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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well i added some 6 neon tetras a wisteria plant and 2 other plants that i dont remember the name off to the tank and they have been doing fine. i plan on adding 6 more neons tommorow. my local lfs on have a 25ft long fish wall so its not much of a selection but sooner or later im going to have to go to a different lfs a few towns over and i hear they have a 150ft fish wall so hopefully ill come back with some fish. when i go though i plan on taking my books and a laptop for refrence so i know what im getting in to before i buy anything.

its a half a inch of water and you think your gunna drown
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