Nitrites starting to pick up, when should I do a water change? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 33 Old 01-18-2009, 06:49 PM
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I think keeping nitrites and ammonia at zerro when cycling would be impossible. Just keep them low. I would set my goal at keeping them both at .25ppm or under. Try to keep under.50ppm for sure!
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post #12 of 33 Old 01-18-2009, 06:54 PM
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So true. I did water changes as soon as I saw .25ppm and a few times it hit .50ppm 12 hours after a water change..those were the days I was doing water changes 12 hours apart.
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post #13 of 33 Old 01-18-2009, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistersmom View Post
I think keeping nitrites and ammonia at zerro when cycling would be impossible. Just keep them low. I would set my goal at keeping them both at .25ppm or under. Try to keep under.50ppm for sure!
That's what I'm gonna shoot for :) thanks.

55 Gallon

-10x Zebra Danio
-3x Angelfish
-5x Velvet Red Swordtail
-3x Albino Cory Cat
-3x Clown Loach
-3x Black Mollie
-1x Red Tailed Shark
-1x General Pleco
-1x Snail

10 Gallon

Quarantine

37 Gallon (Wanted)

Not Sure

150 Gallon (Wanted)

-5x Bala Shark
-2x Neon Blue Goarami
-5x Clown Loach
-1x Black Knife Ghost
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post #14 of 33 Old 01-18-2009, 08:40 PM
I would seriously consider getting a bacterial helper product. Superbac worked well for me. It's too late yo do a full dose but you could put an ounce with each water change.be sure to do the WC too much waste build up and you'll have yourself some mighty fine algea.
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post #15 of 33 Old 01-20-2009, 09:45 AM
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I would seriously consider not doing it. Results are hit or miss and a miss can dump a lot of dead decaying matter into the tank leading to an instant ammonia spike.

Water changes will not slow down cycling. Ammonia and Nitrite that you detect are excess that the bacteria cannot consume so you're not hurting them by removing some of it.

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post #16 of 33 Old 01-20-2009, 10:07 AM
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I agree with Ty, If these so called bacteria in a bottle produced the desired results for everyone then word would spread like wild fire accross the internet and places that sold these snake oils,,errr,, products would not be able to keep it on their shelves.Too many different variables come into play for these products to work equally well for everyone.
Were it me,,, (and it ain't) I would use NOTHING in my aquarium other than a dechlorinator that detoxifys,,ammonia, chlorine,,and chloramines. PRIME is the product I use as well as many others.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #17 of 33 Old 01-20-2009, 11:47 AM
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I would seriously consider not doing it. Results are hit or miss and a miss can dump a lot of dead decaying matter into the tank leading to an instant ammonia spike.

Water changes will not slow down cycling. Ammonia and Nitrite that you detect are excess that the bacteria cannot consume so you're not hurting them by removing some of it.
which would be exactly what you want in a fishless cycle.

but if it has fish in it already then you dont want it.
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post #18 of 33 Old 01-20-2009, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
I agree with Ty, If these so called bacteria in a bottle produced the desired results for everyone then word would spread like wild fire accross the internet and places that sold these snake oils,,errr,, products would not be able to keep it on their shelves.Too many different variables come into play for these products to work equally well for everyone.
Were it me,,, (and it ain't) I would use NOTHING in my aquarium other than a dechlorinator that detoxifys,,ammonia, chlorine,,and chloramines. PRIME is the product I use as well as many others.


I like the way you think. I personally never believe anything written on bottles on fish store shelves, especially when it sounds too good to be true. They know you aren't going to sue them when your fish die.
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post #19 of 33 Old 01-20-2009, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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I like the way you think. I personally never believe anything written on bottles on fish store shelves, especially when it sounds too good to be true. They know you aren't going to sue them when your fish die.
Agreed

55 Gallon

-10x Zebra Danio
-3x Angelfish
-5x Velvet Red Swordtail
-3x Albino Cory Cat
-3x Clown Loach
-3x Black Mollie
-1x Red Tailed Shark
-1x General Pleco
-1x Snail

10 Gallon

Quarantine

37 Gallon (Wanted)

Not Sure

150 Gallon (Wanted)

-5x Bala Shark
-2x Neon Blue Goarami
-5x Clown Loach
-1x Black Knife Ghost
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post #20 of 33 Old 01-21-2009, 09:01 AM
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One more thing. Many people ask how much water to change. When cycling a tank you need to keep some amount of ammonia and/or nitrites for the bacteria to feed on so they multiply. That's of course why you don't change all the water or too much. But how much should be changed? That depends on how much ammonia the fish are producing per day, the size of the tank and the stage at which the cycling is at. But the point I wanted to make is simple.

If you want to lower a given reading by half you change half the water. Lowering by 25% would require changing 25% of the water. So by monitoring daily or every other day, you should be able to tell how quickly the ammonia and/or nitrite values are increasing and be able to tell how much water to change.

Here's a couple of guides

http://freshaquarium.about.com/libra...moniachart.htm

http://freshaquarium.about.com/libra...tritechart.htm
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