Nitrates 0 Causing lower pH? - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 25 Old 05-23-2012, 03:48 PM
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On the ammonia, it will be ammonia (toxic) if the pH is basic (above 7), and ammonium (basically harmless) in acidic water (pH below 7). Which is why I said earlier that either the ammonia or pH number must be inaccurate.

Rinsing the filter cartridge in any tap water will kill the bacteria due to the chlorine (and chloramine if that is also added by the water folks). I suggest you rinse filter media in a pail of tank water.

On the light. Yes, the sudden on or off of the tank light does startle fish. The room must not be dark when the tank light comes on or goes off. There should always be some light in the room, whether daylight through the window or electric lights/lamps.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #22 of 25 Old 05-24-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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On the ammonia, it will be ammonia (toxic) if the pH is basic (above 7), and ammonium (basically harmless) in acidic water (pH below 7). Which is why I said earlier that either the ammonia or pH number must be inaccurate.

Rinsing the filter cartridge in any tap water will kill the bacteria due to the chlorine (and chloramine if that is also added by the water folks). I suggest you rinse filter media in a pail of tank water.

On the light. Yes, the sudden on or off of the tank light does startle fish. The room must not be dark when the tank light comes on or goes off. There should always be some light in the room, whether daylight through the window or electric lights/lamps.

Byron.
Oh geez. Maybe my tank goes through mini cycles because i rinse the filter cartridge in tap water D: Wont be doing that anymore!

Maybe the pH is wrong. I'll buy a different kind of pH test today and see what that says. Any suggestions on the test? I have the API liquid one right now.

My room light is always on when it cuts out, though it probably wasn't when I was out of town. It might have been though because my beta light has to be turned off manually, so they might have had my light on to do that.

5/24/12
Ammonia 8.0 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
pH 6 (And now it says six, so maybe it is the pH number that's wrong)

Tiger Barbs




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post #23 of 25 Old 05-24-2012, 10:46 AM
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Oh geez. Maybe my tank goes through mini cycles because i rinse the filter cartridge in tap water D: Wont be doing that anymore!

Maybe the pH is wrong. I'll buy a different kind of pH test today and see what that says. Any suggestions on the test? I have the API liquid one right now.

My room light is always on when it cuts out, though it probably wasn't when I was out of town. It might have been though because my beta light has to be turned off manually, so they might have had my light on to do that.

5/24/12
Ammonia 8.0 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
pH 6 (And now it says six, so maybe it is the pH number that's wrong)
Well, the pH is not likely to be going from 7.4 down to 6 in a couple days. At least a pH of 6 would explain why ammonia at 8 is not causing fish deaths. That still doesn't answer where the ammonia is coming from.

API tests are deemed reliable. What is the pH of your tap water, according to the water supply folks? If this is around 7 or in the 6's or 7's, then the basic API pH test is the one to use (not the "high" test).

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #24 of 25 Old 05-24-2012, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Well, the pH is not likely to be going from 7.4 down to 6 in a couple days. At least a pH of 6 would explain why ammonia at 8 is not causing fish deaths. That still doesn't answer where the ammonia is coming from.

API tests are deemed reliable. What is the pH of your tap water, according to the water supply folks? If this is around 7 or in the 6's or 7's, then the basic API pH test is the one to use (not the "high" test).
Ah, I was unaware that there were more than 2 types of pH liquid by API.
I'll call the water, but we have filters. Would that effect the pH?

Tiger Barbs




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post #25 of 25 Old 05-24-2012, 04:31 PM
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Ah, I was unaware that there were more than 2 types of pH liquid by API.
I'll call the water, but we have filters. Would that effect the pH?
No, unless it is RO.

There is a normal range ph kit, and a high range kit for hard water. These will give different readings for the same water, so it is important to use the same kit consistently, and the one that corresponds to your source water.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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