Newbie 6 Galleon Freshwater - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 29 Old 02-13-2011, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Newbie 6 Galleon Freshwater

I started a 6 galleon freshwater aquarium recently. This is my first foray into the aquarium world. I reused an old 6 galleon eclipse tank after wiping it out with plain water. Have four plastic plants and one decoration in it as well as an air stone and heater. Ran the tank for two days with just water in it and today added two zebra danios. As of now they are doing well and all water parameters are normal. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what i could add after cycling is complete. I would like to have as many fish as safely possible and have the ability to remove the danios and use them to start another tank. My girlfriend wants some color in the tank. I would appreciate any advice please.
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post #2 of 29 Old 02-14-2011, 12:21 AM
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Your 6g limits all your choices. What are the water parameters exactly? Leaving the water for two days without ammonia source will simply not start the nitrogen cycle. The addition of your fish technically becomes the starting point. Watch the parameters carefully as high ammonia and nitrite will badly damage and kill your danios in the process.

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post #3 of 29 Old 02-14-2011, 01:12 AM
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Welcome to TFK !!!
If you are looking for some color you could get some neon tetras, or a Betta. I have a 5.5 on my desk with a Betta and he is fun to watch.
If my past is anything like your future.... it won't matter soon, cause you will get bigger tanks with room for whatever you want
Just FYI we LOVE pics. Post some when you can.
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post #4 of 29 Old 02-14-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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My water parameters are listed in my tank as well as a picture.
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post #5 of 29 Old 02-14-2011, 03:32 PM
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Ammonia at 3 (as noted in your log) is high. Daily, and I mean every day, partial water changes of half the tank volume, using a good water conditioner, will hopefully save the fish.

What water conditioner are you using? One that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite would help, Prime does this, also one called Ultimate made by Aquarium Solutions. Either would be beneficial in new tanks.

Your pH is shown as 7; which test kit are you using? I may have more on this.

In a new tank without many live plants I would also highly recommend a biological supplement that helps to start the bacteria sooner. There are two I know of that are worth using, Tetra's SafeStart and Seachem's Stability. A small bottle of either would help. They do not "cycle" a tank, they merely add the necessary live bacteria to get it started faster with less stress on the fish. And ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish.

Lupin is absolutely correct, in a small tank fish choices are very limited, but we can talk about possible fish later, let's get the tank cycled and save the fish you have first.

And, welcome to Tropical Fish Keeping forum.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #6 of 29 Old 02-15-2011, 12:39 AM Thread Starter
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I just order the API master test kit. I am currentlty using Jungle Ammonia test strips (beginning to not belive them)i got from Walmart. For the ther tests Mardel test strips.

After retesting my tank my Ammonia is .5, pH is 7.2

Last edited by medic317; 02-15-2011 at 12:45 AM.
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post #7 of 29 Old 02-15-2011, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by medic317 View Post
I just order the API master test kit. I am currentlty using Jungle Ammonia test strips (beginning to not belive them)i got from Walmart. For the ther tests Mardel test strips.

After retesting my tank my Ammonia is .5, pH is 7.2
Test strips may not be accurate. API liquid kit is good. Ammonia at .5 is still high, a partial water change (50%) and previous advice still holds.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #8 of 29 Old 02-15-2011, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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After work tonight i am going to do a LWC and i will let you guys know how it goes.
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post #9 of 29 Old 02-16-2011, 12:13 AM Thread Starter
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Just did a LWC and it cleaned up the cloudiness in the tank some and the parameters are: pH 7.3, NH3 .25,nitrate and nitrite 0
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post #10 of 29 Old 02-16-2011, 01:33 AM
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Your ammonia is not toxic at this point but I must stress the point of water changes. It is quite important you do so to prevent ammonia from increasing dangerously or else your fish will start getting signs of ammonia burns particularly gill and skin burns. Those can quickly damage and kill the fish. As Byron advised, partial water changes daily are needed to keep it under control. You're at the beginning of the nitrogen cycle right now.

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I'm ready for the pressure.
The drama and the pleasure!
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I believe I can touch the sky!
I think about it every night and day!
I stand in awe of my body.
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