New Tank Setup - Some Questions - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 1077 View Post
Please enlighten those considering using Prawn as source of food for bacteria,as to how it will "seriously foul up the tank ."(evidence)
I and many other's have used this method more than a few times ,and other than possibly smelling after a couple week's which is easily remedied by water change,,I have expierienced no troubles.
Prawn is no different than animal protein's found in food's we offer every day to our fish.
Because he already had ammonia high enough to remove the prawn. I've read on various sites that leaving it in too long can introduce unwanted bacteria.

Animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give the wrong answers.
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post #12 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 06:39 AM
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Because he already had ammonia high enough to remove the prawn. I've read on various sites that leaving it in too long can introduce unwanted bacteria.
I aplogize,, I never saw any mention of ammonia level's .Only that a prawn was added and water became cloudy.
Remove the prawn ,and food for bacteria is gone and cycling will stall.

Were it me, (and it ain't) for this size tank,,, I would add one small raw,uncooked,cocktail shrimp and this would be source of ammonia.(food for good bacteria)
Every couple day's,,I would test for nitrites, with an "I" which should appear at around ten day's.
No need to test ammonia for unless you remove the shrimp,,the food is there for bacteria.
Once nitrite's appear,,I would then begin testing every couple day's for nitrAtes with an "A".
Once nitrAtes appear, and ammonia and nitrites with an "I" read zero for three or four consecutive day's, I would perform sizeable water changeof 40 to 50 percent to lower Nitrates with an "A" and stock the tank slowly, with a few very small fish for this tank which is quite small ,with a week to ten day's between new fishes to give bacteria time to adjust to metabolic input of fish food,fishes.
Is possible to add too much ammonia as is often the case with those performing fishless cycling using raw ammonia ,and this can indeed slow down the cycling process.
Is just what I would do /have done.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #13 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 06:46 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by itsonlybarney View Post
The reason we weren't looking at plants is because of the "small" tank that we have. We haven't got a deep enough substrate to plant anything, is there a way to have a plant in a pot that can sit on the bottom of the tank?
Is this possible?
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post #14 of 25 Old 06-26-2012, 09:06 PM
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Is this possible?
Yes but a pot will be obvious and there are other issues. It doesn't take much substrate, only 1 inch to 1.5 inches in the back. In a 10g the plants will not have extensive root systems. Some easy plants like the pygmy chain sword or chain sword would be ideal. Corkscrew Vallisneria if the water is medium hard or harder. And floating plants, Water Sprite, Brazilian Pennywort (a stem plant but works well floating in small tanks). These are in the profiles, click the shaded names.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
What is everyone's thoughts on air stones during tank cycling? Good, bad or otherwise?
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post #16 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 12:19 PM
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What is everyone's thoughts on air stones during tank cycling? Good, bad or otherwise?
I've never heard or read that airstones affect cyclcing.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 12:44 PM
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What is everyone's thoughts on air stones during tank cycling? Good, bad or otherwise?
Haven't heard of airstones but the main nitrification bacteria require oxygen so i imagine it would help.. i have heard of lowering the tank level a couple inches so as the water re enters the tank from the filter it is agitated more and increases oxygen. I wanted to double check that nitrifying bacteria were aerobic and found this article.. pretty well written imo. The Nitrogen Cycle - Article at The Age of Aquariums - Tropical Fish
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post #18 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 02:52 PM
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We have some articles here on TFK about this, before you have to go elsewhere.

This one on cycling:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...m-cycle-38617/

And for more depth on bacteria this one:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-74891/

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 08:11 PM
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I notice that you mentioned you wanted Tetras Mollies and Guppies in the tank. I wanted a similar selection of fish in my new tank until it was pointed out to me that these species have incompatible water requirements. Tetras = soft acidic water, Mollie Guppies = Hard alkaline water.
Was gutted but had to put the welfare of the fish first and went with tetras.
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post #20 of 25 Old 06-28-2012, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by War Monk View Post
I notice that you mentioned you wanted Tetras Mollies and Guppies in the tank. I wanted a similar selection of fish in my new tank until it was pointed out to me that these species have incompatible water requirements. Tetras = soft acidic water, Mollie Guppies = Hard alkaline water.
Was gutted but had to put the welfare of the fish first and went with tetras.
Quite true.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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