new tank set-up 20g long planted - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 33 Old 02-26-2012, 05:52 PM
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I'd like to just add a couple things to the good advice already posted by other members.

Substrate--by Fluval do you mean Flourite made by Seachem? Or something else? I'm asking because Flourite is a bit rough if you intend substrate fish like corys; I have it, but I removed the corys from that tank because of this. Playsand is a very inexpensive option, if you have it around 1.5 inches depth overall. With substrate plants and Malaysian Livebearing snails, it will not compact.

Fish--I would not introduce gourami into a 20g long, except for the much smaller rarer species (and they require very soft water). A 20g is not a lot of room, and as someone mentinoed, gourami can be troublemakers.

Plant the tank at the beginning, and you can add a few fish with no "cycling" worries, and increase the fish slowly from there. The tube you mentioned should be fine, a cool white but that is a nice hue. Tubes need replacing every year roughly, so you can try something different then.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #12 of 33 Old 02-26-2012, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
I'd like to just add a couple things to the good advice already posted by other members.

Substrate--by Fluval do you mean Flourite made by Seachem? Or something else? I'm asking because Flourite is a bit rough if you intend substrate fish like corys; I have it, but I removed the corys from that tank because of this. Playsand is a very inexpensive option, if you have it around 1.5 inches depth overall. With substrate plants and Malaysian Livebearing snails, it will not compact.

Fish--I would not introduce gourami into a 20g long, except for the much smaller rarer species (and they require very soft water). A 20g is not a lot of room, and as someone mentinoed, gourami can be troublemakers.

Plant the tank at the beginning, and you can add a few fish with no "cycling" worries, and increase the fish slowly from there. The tube you mentioned should be fine, a cool white but that is a nice hue. Tubes need replacing every year roughly, so you can try something different then.

Byron.
i mean this:Hagen Fluval Stratum Substrate for Planted Aquariums

my intention is to plant(most at least) at the beginning. what fish would be recommended to place in the tank first? i realize it may be a premature question till i call for my water hardness tomorrow.

the only fish from my list that i consider a must would be:
the bristlenose(they look so kool!) and the panda corys as i already have one(in my 5g) and know he needs friends badly (part of the reason i got a larger tank to begin with)

thanks to all again.
i may be asking to many questions but i want to do this right and im so excited to start it!
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post #13 of 33 Old 02-26-2012, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuppyGrabber View Post
i mean this:Hagen Fluval Stratum Substrate for Planted Aquariums

my intention is to plant(most at least) at the beginning. what fish would be recommended to place in the tank first? i realize it may be a premature question till i call for my water hardness tomorrow.

the only fish from my list that i consider a must would be:
the bristlenose(they look so kool!) and the panda corys as i already have one(in my 5g) and know he needs friends badly (part of the reason i got a larger tank to begin with)

thanks to all again.
i may be asking to many questions but i want to do this right and im so excited to start it!
I've not seen the Fluval substrate, and I would have to see and feel it before I could opinion on its sharpness/smoothness. This is an issue with corys. And after years of using fine gravel substrates and having no issues with the corys that I could identify, they are now over sand. If you can find the Fluval locally, even if you don't buy it from there, you could at least feel it in the bag.

I would not introduce a Bristlenose to a new setup; waiting for some algae is best to allow it to settle in faster. An upper fish, depending which species, would probably work for the first fish. If you are well planted, I would add the full group of one of the shoaling fish. What I mean is, if for example you intend to have 6 neons and 6 trasbora and 5 corys and 1 BN, adding the 6 neons first, then the 6 rasbora a few days later, then the corys, etc.

And don't hesitate to ask any questions. We all want you to succeed as much as you do. It is no fun having something fail.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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so this is what i found:
Total Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
34.7
80 - 100
Calcium Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
24.7
Magnesium Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
10.0

so is this what you are looking for? the woman on the phone said it was pretty soft. then i got it on the net...now im confuzzled...
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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also found this:

Alkalinity
mg/L CaCO3
35.7

are these useful numbers oram i grabbing the wrong ones?
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post #16 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 10:20 AM
The kelvin temp actually matters very little for growth. What matters is the actual spectrum of the bulb. Kelvin temp you should pick based on what you think looks best. I personally like bulbs above 7000K. Around 8000 is my favorite but I will go higher then that. All my show tanks get the higher color temps. I go with the slightly cheaper 6500K on non-show tanks if I just want the plants to grow and not show off color as much. Plants grow equally well under any color, its just the spectrum they really care about.

.... I'm probably drunk.

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post #17 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuppyGrabber View Post
so this is what i found:
Total Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
34.7
80 - 100
Calcium Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
24.7
Magnesium Hardness
mg/L CaCO3
10.0

so is this what you are looking for? the woman on the phone said it was pretty soft. then i got it on the net...now im confuzzled...
Quote:
Originally Posted by GuppyGrabber View Post
also found this:

Alkalinity
mg/L CaCO3
35.7

are these useful numbers oram i grabbing the wrong ones?
Those are the correct numbers. If you convert to 'degrees general hardness' or dGH you are at roughly 2 dGH which is very soft. Same goes for your dKH. That is good for most tropical fish, bad for live bearers so it's good that you dropped the platties as they would not like the soft water.
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post #18 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for clearing that up :)

now im of to read up on profiles. any suggested tankmates for the pleco and corys?
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post #19 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 01:51 PM
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The cardinal tetra will do well in your soft water and look stunning. Byron's tanks are all soft water tanks, so you can take a look at them to get some ideas.

---Izzy

Sitting by the koi pond

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post #20 of 33 Old 02-27-2012, 04:22 PM
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Interesting, I know I did a response post, but obviously it didn't take.

Looking back at your original list, the cardinal tetra should be fine in your water. I would however wait until the pH drops a bit, as it should do as the tank matures since the KH is low. Once you're down below 7, you can add the cardinals. Let the pH lower further as it wills to, below 6 is ideal. I've had mine in the mid-6 of late and they are not doing that well.

You can assist this pH lowering a bit, by using rainwater at the next water change. Also, some dried leaves will add more carbonic acid. And of course wood, the more bogwood the better with any forest fish.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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