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post #11 of 26 Old 03-01-2008, 05:23 PM
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The plants will be fine for 3-4 days without light. Just may have to recover a little afterwards.

The fish could be fine but I have never heard of a baclout being done in the middle of cycling. I honestly don't recommend it until the tank is fully cycled.
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post #12 of 26 Old 03-01-2008, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
I cleaned as much algae as possible by physically rubbing it off with my hands. Did a 90% w/c and planted a bunch of plants. I think we have at least 30 plants. Mostly fast growing stuff. Will continue to do 50% w/c's as needed.

Thanks for the help.
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post #13 of 26 Old 03-01-2008, 08:57 PM
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you can also try algone. it will help a little bit with the excessive nutrients. it won't solve your problem, but it might help control it in the future. also, once you identify the type of algae, you could get some fish that will eat it. (but i have no idea what kind of algae that is, sorry)

"Instant gratification takes too long"
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post #14 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 12:39 AM
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gross, I had this stuff in one of my 5 gallons. On another forum they refer to it as 'snot algae' and it can be a pain to get rid of. Here is what I would recommend: listen to fish4all and get rid of as MUCH as you can manually. buy and use flourish excel, dose 2x the recommended dose for a couple of days. You can also try putting the dose into a syringe and squirting it right on the stuff. Increase current in the tank, in my experience low current caused this stuff. Make sure you are dosing ferts. A total blackout may be necessary, that would kill it good I'm sure.
I wonder if amanos would eat that stuff, I'm not sure I never really saw mine eating it....

What worries me is how bad this algae got so fast! You might consider trying a few small siamese algae eaters, but the trick is to make SURE you are getting siamese algae eaters. You can look up ways to tell them apart online.

I agree with fish4all, I nutrients need to be in the water column as well as in the substrate.

Forgot to mention--if some plants seem like they have a lot of algae and it won't come off easily, I would recommend taking a bucket of dechlorinated water and swishing them around to remove it, in my experience this algae comes of really easy that way.
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post #15 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
buy and use flourish excel, dose 2x the recommended dose for a couple of days
What is Flourish Excel for? If it is a source of nutrients, everything I have read, leads me to believe that having too many nutrients combined with too much light can be a primary cause of the algae.

Make sure you are dosing ferts
Again, I think I have too many nutrients not too few. What makes you feel that I need nutrients?

nutrients need to be in the water column as well as in the substrate.
The fact that the algae is growing in the water, isn't that evidence that there is an abundance of nutrients in the water column?

I'm trying to understand the line of reasoning. What is the link that I'm missing?
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post #16 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 02:49 PM
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Flourish Excel is a replacement carbon source for CO2 injection.

It is extrememly effective at killing and controlling algae. Dose the normal dosage every day using a pipette to "spray" the Excel directly on the algae as much as possible. Double the doage can be done but be aware that Anacharis/Elodea and Vals have a tendency to melt off and die from Excel.
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post #17 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 06:33 PM
It seems as though everyone has taken a crack at solving your problem. I guess it's my turn. So, grab a cup of coffee and have a seat. This will, more than likely, be a very long post.

I have a couple of observations. One, I cannot understand why you mixed Flourite and Eco-Complete. It baffles me. Eco-Complete is a stand alone product. No additional material needs to be added. Flourite can be mixed or used by itself. To combine the two is an unnecessary waste of time and money.

Another thing that I noticed was that your substrate is way too deep. At 5" you are asking for trouble with compaction and possible methane pockets. A substrate depth of 3" is more than adequate.

I also do not think that the Fluval is providing enough filtration. Using a "multi-layered" filtration scheme is by far the best and most effective means of filtering a tank. I, personally, use up to (4)different types of filters on my larger tanks, 70g and larger. Using ugf filters with reverse flow power heads(even in planted tanks), power filters(ex. Emperor 400), internal power filters(ex, Fluval 3+ power filters), and canisters(ex. your Fluval and Magnum 350's and 360's) allow me a great deal of filtering power and flexibility in my tanks. Hence, the "multi-layered filtration system" is now explained.

Someone posted earlier the by wiping the material onto your finger and smelling it one could help decipher whether it was algae or diatoms. Blue-green algae is the stuff that smells really bad. I don't think that is what you have. I think that it can be narrowed down to two things. Brown slime algae or diatom growth. Either way, it is truly an obnoxious situation. Damn ugly , too.

Here is the process that I would do. Remove about 2"-2 1/2" of your substrate. Beef up the filtration by adding a ugf with reverse flow power heads and a power filter. Use the Marineland 660r power heads. Also add a power filter, something along the lines of a Marineland 350.

Pull all plants and decorations and rinse them thoroughly under clean warm tap water. No soap. While everything is out of the tank perform a heavy sweep of the tank with your siphon draining 50% of the water. Add an algaecide, I use AlgaeFix, per the directions.

Now, you must pay attention to your light cycle and be careful not to overfeed your fish. I might even go as far as feeding every other day in order to learn to control feeding. The fish will be hungrier and should eat all foods given in this scenario. Lights should be on about 8-10 hours a day. Monitor nitrate, nitrite and phosphate levels religiously. Small water changes, 5g-10g, may need to be done. Done not sweep the gravel. You may suck up any growth, if you wish, as you probably should.

Have some patience. This may not, and probably won't, correct the problem overnight. The new filters will need to seed and you may also see a slight ammonia spike.

I think that this should solve your problem. If it doesn't, I'll be over to pick up your tank in a few weeks. lol

I hate to inform you that you will need to spend money to fix the problem, but the tank will be better for it. And you will have pretty nice set up, too.

Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.
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post #18 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
Well that pretty much covers the entire spectrum. Everything from don't change anything to tear it all down and start over from scratch. It certainly gives me a lot to think about and it's a safe bet that at least one solution will turn out to be right. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all the replies.
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post #19 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 07:41 PM
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Here's the thing turtleman. When algae takes over in a tank it is due to an imbalance of nutrients. This imbalance of nutrients is letting the algae get ahold because the plants aren't growing as well. For instance, awhile ago when I set up my 46 gallon I had about 3.1 watts per gallon, in almost two days the plants had used up all the nitrates in the water, and so they couldn't grow much anymore. The ALGAE however, took off. So you see, algae is opportunistic and will strike when something is off. That is why I think you are probably missing a nutrient and need to fertilize to help the plants grow and starve off the algae.
sorry, guess I wan't very clear earlier.
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post #20 of 26 Old 03-02-2008, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
Growing plant to starve Algae

I'm definitely a believer in helping the plants grow and starve off the algae. I think that is exactly what's going on. I'm just thinking that I've got all this rich new Eco-Complete substratre (4" worth) and the plants were just planted over the past several days. I would assume that it will take 10-14 days for the plants to take hold before they take off. Then they will respond to the nutrients available to them with the light. I just don't think they have had enough time to function at their normal biological capacity yet. So, If I'm wrong, the plants will show definite signs of a lack of and a need for the ferts as you are saying. Are there any definite tell-tell signs when plants are screaming for the ferts that will be a dead give away (other than algea outbreaks)?

I'll purchase some to try. I've had a lot of replies along the same lines as yours. So, I'll go back and see what is recommended and how often should I apply it?

Thanks for the feedback ....I do appreciate all of it.[/code]
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