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new to aquariums

This is a discussion on new to aquariums within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> i am new to aquariums and want to get started with a 90 gal fresh water and im looking for a simple list of ...

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Old 03-06-2009, 11:36 PM   #1
 
new to aquariums

i am new to aquariums and want to get started with a 90 gal fresh water and im looking for a simple list of thing i will need to get started and please dont say things like filters without saying how much the filter can clean an hour im a total n00b and know nothing bout this
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Old 03-06-2009, 11:58 PM   #2
 
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Hi there and welcome to the forum!
How fun to be starting out with a 90gl which will give you lots of options not to mention it's easier to maintain as far as water quality.
The basic list that comes to mind (keep in mind it's late and I'm tired!) would be a test kit, a heater, a filter & a thermometer. Those are the must haves. I'm going to let someone else recommend filter and GPH. I've got a 100gl and for filtration I've got a built in wet/dry and an H.O.T. Magnum 250. I'm embarrased to say I've got no idea as far as how many GPH that it moves but that it works well.
You have many options as far as "decorations": substrate (sand or gravel) plants (live or artificial) rocks, driftwood, etc.
Alot of other people will chime in with their info but I mostly wanted to say, "Welcome!.
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:38 AM   #3
 
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GPH (gallons per hour) is really up to you. Personally I like 10x the gallons, in my 75 I have two filters that together do 750gph and in my 20 I have two filters that do about 200gph. But anywhere from 5x the gallon should be fine.
What are you looking at fish wise? If we know what type of fish you are looking at we can be more specific in telling you exactly what you need, but the basics are what kym said....
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Old 03-07-2009, 10:52 AM   #4
 
Congrats , thats a nice size tank. Have you decided what you want to do with it ? It's easier to decorate b-4 adding water. If you have that wrapped up you'll have to think about cycling it. A canister filter would be best get one thats rated for at least1.5 times the gal's of your tank.well see what they make i think theres 175's 200's 250 and so on .Yiu need water conditioners cycling bacteria, ammonia... TAKE a water sample from your house to a GOOD store like big als; if theres one near you.That will tell you what you need to get your water right.Thats your basis water.ARE you planting?Getr your basics filter, heater figure your water out and repost as to cycling and water management.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:18 AM   #5
 
You can start reading / search tank cycling, fishless cycling. I can say i didn't like the feeding your tank method, it made a mess out of my substrate.I would use superbac and pure ammonia, i would then set it and forget it.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:37 AM   #6
 
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http://www.fishforum.com/member-subm...-methods-3067/

Before filling the tank with water i suggest taping off the edges and spray painting the back wall black with a couple light coats of paint. Its better to do multiple light coats rather 1 or 2 heavy ones. I would then use either black gravel, sand or a dark substrate. Then i would cylce the tank using the ammonia method. I would use live plants and have a very large school of neon tetras and about 10 cherry red shrimp to start. this is just what I would do.

API makes a good liquid test kit called the master test kit which can be found online for a decent price.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:10 PM   #7
 
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If you go with a gravel subtrate, you may want to pick up a gravel vac for your water changes, it gets alot of the detritis out of the gravel with ease.
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:31 PM   #8
 
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Ahhh. I totally forgot all about that item. Sand or gravel, you will need a vacuum for cleaning.
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Old 03-07-2009, 07:53 PM   #9
 
what would be good beginner fish that can surive almost anything
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Old 03-08-2009, 09:29 PM   #10
 
this is some cut and paste i got from ehow.com

Fish;
Be sure that the species in your tank are compatible.
Get school fish. Compatibility problems are minimal and it will be easy to see if any of the fish are behaving oddly (indicating illness). Try neons or cardinal tetras, Corydoras catfish, any of the small barbs, rasboras, loaches, or pearl and zebra danios.
Try a bristle-nose or clown plecostomus, or a pair of otocinclus catfish to help control the algae
Avoid catfish in general. They are nasty predators and tend to grow. And grow. And grow '
Get algae-eating fish, which are your best and most natural line of defense against the stuff. These should be the first fish in your tank.
Determine the number of fish you can house by the size of your tank. A general rule of thumb is to allow 2 inches of fish per gallon of water.

Add clean gravel. Figure on 1 pound of gravel per gallon the tank holds
Fill your tank with water, leaving about an inch at the top. Tap water generally has chemicals in it that aren't good for tropical fish. Ask at the fish store if you'll need special conditioners, since they will be familiar with the composition of the local water.
Add the heater and thermometer. Most tropical fish do best at 76 to 79 degrees.
If a tank isn't level, put a 1/4-inch sheet of Styrofoam under the tank to help distribute the weight more evenly. Stress will be put on the seams and could cause an eventual leak.
Remember that it will need to be positioned near an electrical outlet and away from direct sunlight or drafts.
Use a home water-quality test kit to measure the temperature, pH, dissolved oxygen content, ammonia levels, nitrate levels and salinity of water. Adjust these properties as needed.
Regulate an airflow rate of 2 liters per hour, per liter of water. Control airflow with an aerator.
Provide a proper diet that has 30 to 36 percent protein, 10 percent fat and low amounts of carbohydrates. Be sure the fish food also contains required essential amino acids
Equip aquariums with proper lighting to avoid heat accumulation and excess algae growth. Use a light recommended for aquarium use. Use dimmer devices to avoid startling fish when turning on lights.
Cover the aquarium to prevent contamination of water and to minimize temperature fluctuations.

Cleaning;
Test the water every two weeks. Wait at least a day after a water change.
Take time every week to clear the filter strainers of any plant debris or other waste, and wipe away any algae from the inside walls of the tank with an algae scraper or scrubber pad.
Make a date every two weeks to clean your filter. Consult manufacturer's instructions or an aquarium-supply retailer for advice on your specific model.
Change 10 percent of the water every 30 days
Clear the filter impellers of any slime, algae or plant waste, and replace any activated carbon bags in your filter.
Clean the underside of your aquarium's canopy or hood with an algae scraper or scrubber pad.
Things Needed;
1/4" sheet of styrofoam
gravel
Thermometers
filtration system
plants
Aquarium Lights
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