03-14-2012, 01:43 PM
| || |
Originally Posted by Byron
I'll respond separately on the water when I've checked the link.
Don't bother, you can't test for everything and years ago I learned that messing around with this or that made things worse. The tap water hardness will give us those minerals so calcium, magnesium are covered. The others may or may not be present but as I mentioned the complete liquid ferts are balanced and using their recommended dose is not going to hurt anything at such minimal levels.
Aquarium plants can manage with as little as six hours out of every 24. This is the only limit to duration. The intensity is more crucial. And one does not compensate for the other. If the light intensity over the tank is not sufficient, leaving lights on longer does not make any improvement--but it will grow more algae. Once the intensity is sufficient to balance the nutrients, and they are all available, plants will photosynthesize (grow) full out--until something is no longer available, then they slow and may even stop. As I said earlier, if this happens and light is still on, you will see algae increase.
I have my lights on according to algae. It varies from tank to tank, so obviously many factors play into this. Back in the 1990's I had the lights on for 15 hours daily, and no algae issues. Presently I have them on for 8-9 hours daily and I had to cut back to this due to brush algae issues. In the summer, the additional daylight (more bright and longer) coming in the windows caused algae, so I've now solved that with heavy drapes and blinds in the fish room.
Timers are a good idea, both for plants and fish. A regular schedule is best. It can vary, depending when you are normally home to enjoy the tank. You can read more on lighting and its effect on fish here: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...er-fish-81982/
The oil stuff--if it is like a film on the water surface that is a protein scum. If it is dark green and slimy, that is cyanobacteria.
Swords need good nutrient supply; I have managed well with just adding the Flourish Comprehensive [if this is the product you get, make sure it is the Comprehensive, as they make several products in the Flourish line] twice a week. And now I have the root tabs so Flourish Comp once a week. Each tank can be a bit different.
I think it might have been a mixture because it was a slight film over the surface on both tanks.
In the 10 gallon there was a dark green slimy slodging up the filter, I unclogged it (especially after I read your nitrogen cycle article) and it seem to have helped the flow and reduced the amount of bacteria.
I am going to rinse my filter pad today when I get home. My light in the 10 Gallon is much stronger than in the 29. I bought a special light for both but the one in the 29 just doesn't output as much light as I would like. I may consider returning the light for another one as soon as I can find the receipt.
Another factor about my lights is that the 10 gallon light turns on slow and warms up to be nice and bright while the 29 flickers on to be just as bright as it is going to be for its duration of the day.
Any recommendations for a 24" light?
There is also brown patches growing on the filter (I assume algae)?
I will definitely look for the flourish comprehensive.
Last edited by Termato; 03-14-2012 at 01:46 PM..