New 70 Litre Aquarium - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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post #21 of 24 Old 09-21-2011, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by locksmith View Post
Thanks for that. Went to the store today and they were happy to exchange it for a Tiger Barb. turned out that the fish that they gave by mistake was a Black Ruby Barb. Have added 2 Albino barbs now as well. So now i have 3 Tiger Barbs and 2 Albino Tiger Barbs. Will slowly add more fish over time, would mind adding a few Green Moss barbs.

See how we go :)

Had fish death in the last 23 hours and I was doing so well :) Lost 2 Albino barbs and 2 Tiger barbs :) Only have one left. What should i do now ???

The water parameters are as follows:

Nitrate: 10 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
PH: 6.5
KH: 5 drops (89.5)
GH: 10 drops (179)
Ammonia: 1.0 ppm

How often should I do water changes ??? Once a day only or can I do them more than once a day ??? Need help :( Have put the ChemCarb in filter to remove the medicine that I used to try and save the fish.

Your help would be greatly appreciated, as per usual LOL
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post #22 of 24 Old 09-21-2011, 10:55 AM
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This is likely due to the ammonia. Even if fish survive initially, high levels of ammonia or nitrite during cycling will damage the fish internally, and they frequently succumb later. I see you are back up to 1ppm ammonia which is not good.

Are there live plants in this tank?

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #23 of 24 Old 09-25-2011, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
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This is likely due to the ammonia. Even if fish survive initially, high levels of ammonia or nitrite during cycling will damage the fish internally, and they frequently succumb later. I see you are back up to 1ppm ammonia which is not good.

Are there live plants in this tank?

Byron.
No live plants. But looks like the tank has now cycled, Ammonia is 0 and so is Nitrites. When is it ok to introduce new fish ??? Can I do it now ??? Have three Tiger Barbs @ the moment. At what pace do you add new fish ??? Over what period of time ??? Whats the time required between each time you add fish ???

Thanks again everyone for your advice, been great. I find Aquarium Shops to money driven and they don't give the correct advice.
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post #24 of 24 Old 09-26-2011, 11:02 AM
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No live plants. But looks like the tank has now cycled, Ammonia is 0 and so is Nitrites. When is it ok to introduce new fish ??? Can I do it now ??? Have three Tiger Barbs @ the moment. At what pace do you add new fish ??? Over what period of time ??? Whats the time required between each time you add fish ???

Thanks again everyone for your advice, been great. I find Aquarium Shops to money driven and they don't give the correct advice.
Once an aquarium is cycled, it means the nitrifying bacteria are present at a level to handle the ammonia being produced at that point. Bacteria will always be at this level, to handle the available ammonia (and subsequent nitrite obviously). If the ammonia decreases, the bacteria go into a sort of suspended state or die off, and if it increases they will multiply which takes up to 20 hours. Depending upon the tank volume, fish must be added slowly so as to not suddenly increase the ammonia. And this is solely dependent upon the tank size, type of fish, water parameters and if live plants are present which they are not in this case. You can read about this in detail here: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-74891/

You have a 70 litre (roughly 20 gallon) tank, so I would add fish at maybe 3 at one time in the case of barbs. With tiger barb, I would not have other fish in this tank. As their profile mentions [click the shaded name], this species is prone to aggressive nipping, and a group of 8 is recommended minimum to keep the aggression within the group, and that should be in a 30g tank. In a 20g it will be a risk as the space is less than what the fish really should have.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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