Need some ideas for low light plants in an African Cichlid tank. - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 27 Old 08-14-2012, 10:12 AM
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[quote=Blackfeet;1197869]
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Originally Posted by RedRaider15 View Post
Will Java Fern and Anubias work?

Unfortunatly no not really the water for African Cichlid will kill both and I don't know on the duck weed's requirements unless you are going for no or very low salt. This site I found "aquariumplants.com" has all the plants we've mentioned and they have a profile for their water requirements. They are an excellent information resource and prices are good but shipping is a dozy.
This is not true, Anubias and Jave fern are both thriving in my 75g cichlid tank and I use a Marineland Double Bright LED on it.

The fish have never eaten them once.

Agree with Byron that Corkscrew Vallisneria is a good plant for sand substrate, it does grow fast and is best position away from a filter inlet to prevent the runners from getting sucked in.

The salt is really only needed to stabilize the water to that of the natural lake if your water parameters are not near this. I have water out my tap which is about as close to the Lake as you can get, I do not use salt/Buffers.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)

Last edited by Tazman; 08-14-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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post #12 of 27 Old 08-14-2012, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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So you have the Double Bright LED?
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post #13 of 27 Old 08-14-2012, 10:14 PM
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Yes 36"-48" Marineland Double Bright LED fixture.

Plants have been thriving and I have never dosed anything to the tank.

10g Fry / Hospital / QT tank (as needed)

75g Saltwater Reef, Ocellaris Clownfish, Lyretail Antias (baby), Lemon damsel, Longtail Fairy Wrasse, purple dottyback, snails, crabs and a few LPS corals.

220g Still sitting empty (come on Lottery I need the numbers to come up!)
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post #14 of 27 Old 08-15-2012, 01:10 AM Thread Starter
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Thats good. I really want to get plants but I didn't want to buy the more expensive Aquatic Plant LED. I'm glad that the Double Bright will work!
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post #15 of 27 Old 08-15-2012, 08:07 PM
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Yes I have heard the low to no salt thing on African cichlids twice in the past week here. It appears I am too far out of the loop on AC water parameters.
Caution on LED LIGHTS. When the bulbs blow it requires curuit board work to replace the bulbs. I am really disappointed with mine. My fixture is 2 months old 108w dual HO 48" solar max light with 8 moonlight LEDs, only 2 LED bulbs are fully functioning anymore 3 are operating at less than half strength. I have an issue with a fixture that costs more with bulbs that I can't replace without circuit board work which voids the warranty. Everyone I know including the stores who use LEDs have bad bulbs.

55gallon T5 lighting 2 54w bulbs one daylight 10k, one actnic.
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post #16 of 27 Old 08-15-2012, 08:26 PM
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Yes I have heard the low to no salt thing on African cichlids twice in the past week here. It appears I am too far out of the loop on AC water parameters.
Caution on LED LIGHTS. When the bulbs blow it requires curuit board work to replace the bulbs. I am really disappointed with mine. My fixture is 2 months old 108w dual HO 48" solar max light with 8 moonlight LEDs, only 2 LED bulbs are fully functioning anymore 3 are operating at less than half strength. I have an issue with a fixture that costs more with bulbs that I can't replace without circuit board work which voids the warranty. Everyone I know including the stores who use LEDs have bad bulbs.

55gallon T5 lighting 2 54w bulbs one daylight 10k, one actnic.
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post #17 of 27 Old 08-16-2012, 01:01 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I know, my LED light hood lights are starting to go out. This is the only bad thing about LED lights though! Can't wait to get the Double Brights!
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post #18 of 27 Old 08-16-2012, 12:30 PM
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Yes I have heard the low to no salt thing on African cichlids twice in the past week here. It appears I am too far out of the loop on AC water parameters.
I'm not sure where you're coming from with this, so permit me to perhaps explain. "Salt" is sometimes a misleading term unless one knows exactly what the writer means by "salt." First there is common salt, sodium chloride, and this should never go into any freshwater fish tank except when it is the best treatment to deal with a specific issue, and by best treatment I mean it is not only effective but the fish in the tank can tolerate it. Oftentimes other remedies are better. You can read on the detrimental effect of common salt on freshwater fish here:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...quarium-97842/

"Salt" used in its true chemistry sense refers to the salts of all minerals. And this is what we use in rift lake cichlid tanks and livebearer tanks in order to raise the GH and corresponding pH. Some have suitable hard water out of the tap, but for those who don't these salts are one option. I consider them expensive long-term, and a better solution is to use a calcareous substrate, such as a sand made from crushed coral and aragonite or dolomite. These last years so they are considerably less costly over the long haul.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 27 Old 08-16-2012, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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My tap water is hard and has a ph of 8.0, I also have African Cichlid sand in my aquarium in order to get the right ph for the fish that I have. I would like to have some driftwood in with the fish, but it lowers the ph to some extent. Do I have enough buffer material in the aquarium to ensure that the driftwood will not lower the ph very much?
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post #20 of 27 Old 08-16-2012, 03:26 PM
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My tap water is hard and has a ph of 8.0, I also have African Cichlid sand in my aquarium in order to get the right ph for the fish that I have. I would like to have some driftwood in with the fish, but it lowers the ph to some extent. Do I have enough buffer material in the aquarium to ensure that the driftwood will not lower the ph very much?
Yes. You don't mention the KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) of the tap water, and this is what buffers pH, but if the pH is 8 and the tap water is hard, it likely has a high KH too. Though not necessarily. And then as well the sand you have should contain hard minerals and buffering. So some wood isnot going to have much if any impact. The tannins released by wood meant for the aquarium are few to begin with.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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