Need some help quickly, so fish have been lost. - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 31 Old 12-04-2008, 01:35 AM
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PRIME should be added at each water change for the amount of water that you remove which you should in my view do whenever ammonia is0.25 or more. Though it is safe at five times the amount you remove it should not replace water changes. Water changes will not slow down the maturing or cycling of the tank for there is very little good bacteria in the water. Water changes help replace the minerals needed by fish and removes the stuff that is harmful to the fish. Keep testing for ammonia and nitrites and perform water change of 20 percent using the prime for the new water that you are adding. Be sure and add the prime to the new water BEFORE you add the new water.If you are seeing ammonia above0.25 on the API feshwater master kit which is more reliable than test strips Then change as mentioned 20 percent of water. prime detoxifys ammonia but leaves it in a less harmful form ammonium. Water changes are the only way to remove pollutants from the tank. Don't be too concerned with what happens in the tank in regards to cloudy water . All kinds of things happen during the maturing or cycling process that can cause the water to cloud or turn colors. There is plenty of time after the tank cycles or matures to address this. Do not add anything to the tank except for prime at water changes and your tank and fish will thank you.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #12 of 31 Old 12-04-2008, 03:28 AM Thread Starter
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It seems more milky than green. If it is a Bacterial bloom, do I need to do any thing, or will it take care of it's self with time? Is it part of the cycle?

I did add an airstone and a powerhead near the surface.
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post #13 of 31 Old 12-04-2008, 04:19 AM
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Once your tank has settled the cloudiness will diminish on it's own. Many people begin throwing all manner of chemicals into their tanks in an effort to have crystal clear water. As mentioned all kinds of things can cloud the water and do during the cycling process. Just focus on the test 's for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates for now. And don't dump anything in the water except for dechlorinator. Once the tank has matured or cycled there will be less cloudiness and bacteria blooms will have dissipated. Then it becomes a matter of simply maintaining your water and cleaning the filter on a regular basis but for now, DO NOT touch the filter for that is where the good bacteria that you are waiting on to develop is found in large part. Cleaning or changing it will only do harm. Once the tank has matured or cycled then you rinse the filter out in old aquarium water that you take out during water changes and stick it back in. when it is no longer effective(rinsing) then replace it. I know it is hard to watch water cloud and turn green or brown but we must let the tanks do what they do during this time ,and the less we mess with them the better in the long run.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #14 of 31 Old 12-04-2008, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for the information! It has been very helpful!
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post #15 of 31 Old 12-04-2008, 04:34 PM
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Adding the airstone and powerhead was a good move. I recently had a bacterial bloom on a mature tank and all of the fish were gasping for air at the surface even though water parameters still checked out. I believe the fish were suffering from oxygen depletion caused by the bacterial bloom. Big water changes helped but adding some surface disruption as you have done would have been even better.

4 8 15 16 23 42
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post #16 of 31 Old 12-07-2008, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I am glad to know that I may have done something right.

What causes bacterial blooms in established tanks?

The water is still cloudy, I did another 30 gallon water change yesterday. I don't think it is the green coming back, and the cloudy is still a huge improvement over the water being so green I couldn't even see the fish.

The good thing is that no more fish have been lost for a while now.

MANY years ago when I was young, I had a 20 gallon tank. Back that many years ago, all I had was a corner filter floss filter, and don't recall any thing about a tank cycle or water changes. All I did was feed them and top off. I never had cloudy or green water, so this has all been very strange and frusterating to me.

I have had saltwater reef tanks for 7 years now, and they haven't been as fursterating as this tank! My current saltwater reef tank is a 400 gallon in-wall set up.
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post #17 of 31 Old 12-07-2008, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Do most people use RO water, or just declorinated tap water?
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post #18 of 31 Old 12-08-2008, 04:30 PM
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i use tap water with dechlorinator mix in.

when you set up a new tank,hide an extra
sponge or two behind some decor,that way you have
something seeded for you next filter.
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post #19 of 31 Old 12-08-2008, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well, it looks like the dang water is starting to turn green again in this 135. I guess I will do another 50 gallon water change again tomorrow.

I don't get it. This tank has had massive amounts of water changes, lights out for 6 days and etc. It has two Emporor 400 filters, a couple power heads and an air stone. It has probably 18 small fish in it. Is it ever going to stop???

The tank has .25 ammonia, but I didn't check nitrites or nitrates today.

Last edited by CathyJ; 12-08-2008 at 05:54 PM.
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post #20 of 31 Old 12-09-2008, 12:03 AM
well if your willing to spend the money ,a UV sterilizer would kill a lot of the green algae spores... Itll also kill a lot of ur bacteria, some people have used it and succeeded and getting rid of unwanted algae growth.
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