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Need Help Setting Up 180G Tank For Roseline Sharks

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Need Help Setting Up 180G Tank For Roseline Sharks
Old 10-19-2011, 09:46 PM   #11
 
Oh here's a good article on filtration types and comparisons, what do you think, guy seems to know his stuff? I read most but the power filter section.

Aquarium Filtration; UGF, HOB, Sponge, Internal, Canister, Wet-Dry Filters.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:39 PM   #12
 
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Thanks for jumping in Jakiebabie, that self priming looks like a good thing on the Eheim, I'm going to Big Al's on Friday to look around see if I can start getting a list together soon.

How much are these pads for the Eheim and how often do you change it? I thought the media baskets took any type of media?

What media would you recommend I use? Should it all be mechanical or a little biological as well? What's a good mechanical type?

Changing the extra water won't be any harder so I will.
The Eheim pads in Canada are $12.99 for a package online (got my last ones from Pets&Ponds, link: Eheim Media - Pets & Ponds) which includes two white and one blue. The blue last ages, so this packaging means you build up a supply of the blue, so I just change them periodically anyway. The white pads do wear out fast, each rinsing seems to break them down shape-wise. I find the Eheim canisters tend to need rinsing every 4-5 months, so I might replace the white pad every second or third cleaning.

As for the other media, I now use Fluval because it is about 1/3 the cost. The ceramic disks that go in the bottom basket and never need replacing are the same whether Eheim, Rena or Fluval, so buy the cheaper. The other media, the bio stuff [Eheim calls it Efhisubstrat], is very expensive from Eheim and Rena, so I now use Fluval BioMax in my Eheim and Rena canisters. I never replace it, just rinse it under the tap when the filter needs cleaning. With plants your filter is only moving the water around and removing suspended particulate matter (the "clear" aspect), and the plants are doing the big job of "cleaning" the water, so biological filtration is somewhat unimportant. Plus there is more nitrifying bacteria in the substrate than in the filter media anyway, even if it was important.

On your subsequent post, yes, Carl knows his stuff. I have probably read that article sometime past, but will do so later and comment if I see anything "odd."

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Old 10-20-2011, 06:49 PM   #13
 
Oh that's not bad, I was thinking every couple weeks.

So why do you use bio filter when you have live plants if its not important?

I read a few times it wasn't best to rinse the bio rocks under tap water when cleaning, I thought it was better to use tank water to rinse the bio stones.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:23 PM   #14
 
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Oh that's not bad, I was thinking every couple weeks.

So why do you use bio filter when you have live plants if its not important?

I read a few times it wasn't best to rinse the bio rocks under tap water when cleaning, I thought it was better to use tank water to rinse the bio stones.
You'd be surprised at what I do. You've heard the old addage, "do what I say, not what I do"...

Seriously now. On the BioMax, you need something in the basket, to trap particles. Also, some biological filtration is going to be present, bacteria will colonize even if in smaller numbers because of the plants. One just doesn't want to "encourage" it with mega-filters.

As for the rinsing, I have always done it with warm or sometimes hot water out of the tap. And for the same reason. We don't really need the nitrifying bacteria in the filter, there is sufficient on plant leaves, on wood, rock, indeed all surfaces under water will establish a biofilm for various bacteria. I would and do recommend beginners to be cautious and rinse filter media in tank water, because I must assume they may not have the bacteria colony that I have in my established tanks.

But the benefit of live plants really cannot be understated. I recently reset my 115g. New playsand substrate, filter media washed in hot water and pads new. Filled the tank, added conditioner, moved over some wood, the plants, and then all 90+ fish. No issues whatsoever. The plants grabbed the ammonia. There was likely some nitrifying bacteria on the wood and plant leaves. I reset all my tanks this past summer, same procedure. We learn from experience and knowledge. But, there is nothing wrong with being cautious until you have learned.

Byron.
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:38 PM   #15
 
Lol, I'm the same way. Ok I'm good on the filters now, thanks!

Next I'm wondering about water flow. As you know the tank is for Roseline Sharks so I must have good water movement and I will. I also plan to add a powerhead somewhere but this is where I get concerned.

I'm re-reading your posts on planted aquariums and I'm worried about what part 3 has to say.

You mention its best to have slow flowing water and no powerheads because they can add to much oxygen to the tank and its harder for the plants to get other nutrients.

So what do you suggest I do?

The fast moving water is a must as the tank is for roselines.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:20 AM   #16
 
Here's a list of plants I think are best for my situation based on the profiles.
  • Giant Vallisneria
  • Java Fern
  • Java Moss
  • Uruguay Sword
  • Red Melon Sword
  • Ozelot Sword
  • Brazilian Pennywort
Are these all ok, I don't know if I want them all, I'm just trying to make a list of what I can have in there with my conditions then I'll choose.

Are there any I missed and should check out?
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Old 10-21-2011, 12:14 PM   #17
 
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On the water flow, a good canister will be adequate. This is a case where I would remove the spray bar and aim the spigot (filter outflow pipe) directly down the tank from the end wall. The filter intake should obviously be at the opposite end. Eheim comes with long tubing that can be cut, or you can buy longer if needed. This is one disadvantage of Rena, the tubing is 5 feet max. And of course, Eheim tubes won't fit Rena. If the canister can sit under the tank in the middle, this works with 5-foot tubing. But if like mine it has to sit at one end, you will need to make sure you have sufficient length tubing.

This should provide good current replicating a stream. The plants will go along the back and sides, leaving a good open space down the tank so the flow will not be further impeded. Rinse the filter media, esp pads, regularly; depends upon the tank, but as gunk clogs the pads the filter flow does slow.

To the plants. Given the current, swords (the larger species like Echinodorus cordifolius, Echinodorus bleherae) would be ideal. Giant Vallisneria will work, it will move with the current a bit but depending where you place it that can be quite effective. Pennywort at the far end (away from the filter outflow) will be fine; close to the filter outflow it will fall over. Java Fern is good next to the outflow, it can stand good currents; attached to a chunk of rock like a river boulder at that end would be very effective.

Byron.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:21 PM   #18
 
I will be adding a powerhead, it will come on and off via a timer. I didn't really give hose length much thought on the filter but yeah now I see problems could exist because its a wide tank, I'll make sure to keep that in mind when buying.

I looked up the Amazon Sword (I have to stick to names I can pronounce and spell ) but noticed it likes warmer temps, the profile says 75-82f, I plan to have the tank sit at 70 or lower. Did you overlook that or do you think its ok?

Oh how often do you wipe the inside of the glass on your tanks?

Thanks for all your input!
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:41 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by robsworld78 View Post
I will be adding a powerhead, it will come on and off via a timer. I didn't really give hose length much thought on the filter but yeah now I see problems could exist because its a wide tank, I'll make sure to keep that in mind when buying.

I looked up the Amazon Sword (I have to stick to names I can pronounce and spell ) but noticed it likes warmer temps, the profile says 75-82f, I plan to have the tank sit at 70 or lower. Did you overlook that or do you think its ok?

Oh how often do you wipe the inside of the glass on your tanks?

Thanks for all your input!
The temperature ranges for the plants in our profiles are "optimum" and most plants will manage fine outside those ranges, at least at the cooler end. Sometimes plants will fall apart at warmer temps.

Every week when I do the water change, as the water is draining via the Python I clean the inside of the front glass with an algae scrubber on a long handle. It is a stiff sort of sponge, some models have two sides with different sponges. I've never used the magnet gadget, I have heard it can scratch the glass more easily. You do have to be careful with any sponge not to pick up sand or gravel.

I do this every week although it usually doesn't "look" like it needs it. But algae starts off as miniscule bits that I can't see, and if i miss a week sure enough mid-week I will be sitting there and notice some dot algae starting. Sometimes i clean side glass panels. And Usually the back when I see something. I find algae on the back glass makes the back appear more obvious and narrows the depth of the tank visually.
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:00 PM   #20
 
I didn't think I would get algae buildup because its planted? I thought algae only showed up if there was extra nutrients or whatever the plants can't use or if there are no plants.
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