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Need help fast!!

This is a discussion on Need help fast!! within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Hello Everyone Im having a serious problem with my 46 gal Aquarium, Ive had my Tank for about a month now and my water ...

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Old 09-26-2010, 11:07 AM   #1
 
Need help fast!!

Hello Everyone Im having a serious problem with my 46 gal Aquarium, Ive had my Tank for about a month now and my water has constantly been cloudy the whole time. Since the problem wouldnt go away I added an extra filter to see if it would help. Nothing Changed. Last night I bought a Rina Xp2 filter and took the other 2 marineland filters off. I Left for the night and When I woke up the next morning 70 percent of my African Cichlids were dead and the Ph Level was at 3. Theres only 7 left and most of them are at the top gasping for air. So seeing this I added back a marine filter and some of the fish started swimming. MY question is If I have a canister filter only am I suppose to have airstone bubbles for oxygen? If not then what should I add? My next Question is why is my water still milky after the addition of the xp2?

Thank you for taking ur time and helping me out
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:46 PM   #2
 
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First, changing the filter removed any beneficial nitrification bacteria that had colonized the media in the former filters, and the ammonia and nitrite would have immediately risen to toxic levels. Thus, dead fish.

Do you know about cycling? Here's some info from the top of this forum section:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...m-cycle-38617/

The "cloudiness" may have been natural for a new aquarium and thus not a problem for the fish, or it can be a bacterial bloom also not a fish problem and best left alone to clear on its own. But it could also have been related to the cycling.

In the month you've had this aquarium, what has been your maintainance? Water changes--how often and how much? Any chemical stuff going in the water (conditioner, anything else?)? Have you tested ammonia, nitrite and pH regularly? A pH of 3 is serious, but what is the pH of your tap water? And which test kit are you using?

And how many fish are (or were) in this tank? If 70% died and 7 are left, I assume something like 25 rift lake cichlids in a 46g tank which is way too many for a new tank.

Several questions but we need these answers to assess the issue.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:50 PM   #3
 
a little helpfull i hope

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhagans06 View Post
Hello Everyone Im having a serious problem with my 46 gal Aquarium, Ive had my Tank for about a month now and my water has constantly been cloudy the whole time. Since the problem wouldnt go away I added an extra filter to see if it would help. Nothing Changed. Last night I bought a Rina Xp2 filter and took the other 2 marineland filters off. I Left for the night and When I woke up the next morning 70 percent of my African Cichlids were dead and the Ph Level was at 3. Theres only 7 left and most of them are at the top gasping for air. So seeing this I added back a marine filter and some of the fish started swimming. MY question is If I have a canister filter only am I suppose to have airstone bubbles for oxygen? If not then what should I add? My next Question is why is my water still milky after the addition of the xp2?

Thank you for taking ur time and helping me out
1, did you vac the loose sediment out, often theres a fine dust that will stay in the water with new sand till removed, the filters keep it stirred up till its removed, 2 never a good idea to add fish till the tank is stable i let it sit a week or 2 for the bio filter to kick in, 3 what was the tank levels at before the fish were added, 3 im guessing you added a new filter (xp2) to your existing tank without running it first, there are 2 problems with that, trace toxins from the manufacturing process get flushed into the tank, and a new filter has no bio filter active so in removing the old filters you may have completely thrown your tank off balance, im an amature marine biologist so i usualy study wild, but use tanks to replicate enviornment, the trouble is that tanks dont self sustain, so watch variables carefully, theres alot of them till the tank is established, if you have a stable tank or temp tank like sick bay for fish, transfer till main tank is stable, just my personal advice, not liable for anyones action upon said advice thank you
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Old 09-26-2010, 06:17 PM   #4
 
Thanks for the replies! I made a mistake earlier.. The PH is not 3 the Ammonia was actually at 3.0 and thats what killed my fish. Currently the ammonia is back to 0. Tomorrow I plan to take my rocks out and vacuum the bottom of the tank. I was doing water changes about almost every 2 days because of constant ammonia problems and cloudy water. Yesterday morning I actually did a 75 percent water change and it clouded back up later that night. As far as chemicals go ive been using Stress Coat, Cichlid Ph Buffer, Nutrifin Clear Fast, Ammo Lock for the Ammonia. When i initially started the Aquarium I used Dr Tims one and only live nutrifying bacteria (Similar to Safe Start)
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:13 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhagans06 View Post
Thanks for the replies! I made a mistake earlier.. The PH is not 3 the Ammonia was actually at 3.0 and thats what killed my fish. Currently the ammonia is back to 0. Tomorrow I plan to take my rocks out and vacuum the bottom of the tank. I was doing water changes about almost every 2 days because of constant ammonia problems and cloudy water. Yesterday morning I actually did a 75 percent water change and it clouded back up later that night. As far as chemicals go ive been using Stress Coat, Cichlid Ph Buffer, Nutrifin Clear Fast, Ammo Lock for the Ammonia. When i initially started the Aquarium I used Dr Tims one and only live nutrifying bacteria (Similar to Safe Start)
Do not use the Clear Fast. Water clarifiers work by binding together the particulate matter so it is more easily removed by the filter media/pads. They also bind together the fish's gills, making it difficult for fish to respirate. Do not use any product that "clears" water. Cloudy water in and of itself is not normally harmful, though it may be a sign of something that is, but not always.

Second, I would not use the pH Buffer, at least for the present. What is your tap water pH? If it is above 7 the cichlids will be fine. The hardness also needs to be there, and pH buffer does nothing in that regard. We need to know the hardness before we can advise on use of such products as pH is connected to the hardness.

Daily 50% water changes using only a good conditioner (Prime detoxifies ammonia and nitrite and is thus good in new tanks) may be necessary if ammonia and/or nitrite are above .25 ppm.
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Old 09-26-2010, 08:58 PM   #6
 
I would not remove the rocks and. Would get an airstone also, everything else sound great.
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:52 PM   #7
 
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I agree with the previous poster. Don't take the rocks/gravel out of the tank. If there is any biofilter left after the filter change, its on the gravel/rocks/decor.
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Old 09-27-2010, 12:25 AM   #8
 
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Agree with above,, would also not get too aggressive with vaccuming the gravel for this area also contains the beneficial bacteria needed for processing ammonia and nitrites.
If you are not overfeeding,overstocked,then there should not be a need for aggressive vaccuming or disturbing the filter until the tank has cycled.
If you do have crud laying on the bottom and need to vaccum,,then vaccuming one third of the substrate once each week ,with a different area being vaccumed each week,, would be the way I would go.
The cloudy water was no doubt a bacteria bloom (*good kind) and sometimes takes three weeks or longer to clear.
Reduce feedings to once a day or every other day ,and only feed as much as you actually see the fish eat in a minute or two. Uneaten or excess food will increase ammonia levels which even at .25 on test kits is stressful.
Water changes of 50 percent once of a morning ,and once of an evening may be needed depending on the numbers of fish and amount of foods being offered.
Would also recommend the conditioner/dechlorinator PRIME as Byron mentioned.
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:50 PM   #9
 
Thanks for all the replies! I did a 75% water change and my water is more clear than it has ever been!
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Old 09-27-2010, 08:19 PM   #10
 
My Ammonia level has risen back to 6.0 again, most of the fish are gasping for air again. Should I do another 50 percent water chang? Ive add Ammo-lock to the tank and some of them are swimming better.. Earlier We actually did vacum the whole tank and as u said the ammonia has risen again.. What should I do b4 my fish die?
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