Is my tank not cycling yet? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-27-2013, 05:12 AM Thread Starter
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There are no dead fish. I haven't tested tap for ammonia but I been using tap since setting up the tank and readings were always 0 to 2.0. I have not been feeding much, very sparingly once a day. Just half a pinch if even. Should I do a 50% water change? Can too may water changes hurt the fish or the nitro cycle?
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-27-2013, 05:25 AM
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It may delay it but when you have ammonia readings you must do water changes. If this we're me, I'd prepare for the worst with the remaining fish and frog. Try and figure out the issue and start fresh with live plants, I know Byron has already mentioned this in the thread. Maybe someone else could suggest something but I hope for the best for you and the fish and adf
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-27-2013, 07:36 AM Thread Starter
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Hmmm something is not right. I did a 50% water change and ammonia still read at 8.0.
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-27-2013, 10:52 AM
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Hmmm something is not right. I did a 50% water change and ammonia still read at 8.0.
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First, test the tap water on its own for ammonia. Let's dismiss this as a possible source, or not as the case may be.

Second, earlier there was mention of treatments for ich. It is common to have faulty readings, or to have ammonia or nitrite rise, due to the mix of various chemicals such as medications, water conditioners, additives, etc. [Another reason why the less stuff we put in the water, the better.] I don't have the knowledge to sort all this out, but it does occur and needs to be kept in mind.

Third, as long as Prime is being used with each water change, the ammonia is ammonium which is harmless to the fish. And any nitrite will be rendered safe as well. Both will still show in tests, so don't worry over that with Prime. Prime is effective for up to 48 hours, which is why we suggest frequent water changes, every other day should work fine, until these numbers are zero.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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First, test the tap water on its own for ammonia. Let's dismiss this as a possible source, or not as the case may be.

Second, earlier there was mention of treatments for ich. It is common to have faulty readings, or to have ammonia or nitrite rise, due to the mix of various chemicals such as medications, water conditioners, additives, etc. [Another reason why the less stuff we put in the water, the better.] I don't have the knowledge to sort all this out, but it does occur and needs to be kept in mind.

Third, as long as Prime is being used with each water change, the ammonia is ammonium which is harmless to the fish. And any nitrite will be rendered safe as well. Both will still show in tests, so don't worry over that with Prime. Prime is effective for up to 48 hours, which is why we suggest frequent water changes, every other day should work fine, until these numbers are zero.

Byron.
What do you mean by prime? The ammonia still reads 8.0 but the fish don't seem stressed. I had to change the filter because water was flowing around it not through it and it had only been in there for a week.
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 06:52 PM
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prime is a product to bind rites and convert ammonia to ammonium... boith will still show on test but not harmfull to fish for 48hrs. wait a few hrs after a w/c to retest... 50% w/c everyother day with prime also... + too other replys
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 07:18 PM
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Prime and ammo loc are similar in regards to their action with the ammonia... this is what is keeping your fish alive assuming that the readings of 8 are correct.

I didn't see the results of your tap water test. It should come up very low in ammonia.

daily 50% water changes at this point until the ammonia is zero and then continue them until the nitrites also drop to zero... they will spike at some point and this indicates that your cycle is nearing completion.

I don't have the time to look right now but does ammo loc look after nitrites as well as ammonia? It would be a shame if it didn't and the nitrite killed the fish and frog. If it doesn't, get some Seachem's Prime as it detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as well as treating the chlorine in the water.

Jeff.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 07:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks that prime sounds good i will look into it. The ammonia reading on tap water was .2 to .5. Ammo lock only says ammonia not the nitrites
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 07:53 PM
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Thanks that prime sounds good i will look into it. The ammonia reading on tap water was .2 to .5. Ammo lock only says ammonia not the nitrites
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Prime is a favourite and works well.

That reading is a little high but certainly not the source of your extremely high tank water. I'd just keep doing large water changes, 50% minimum daily until it comes down. As much as it is a problem keeping up with the water treatments will keep everyone alive until this finishes.

Jeff
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post #20 of 21 Old 04-30-2013, 08:00 PM Thread Starter
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Water changes that large wont stall the cycle?
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