My tank is a disaster
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My tank is a disaster

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My tank is a disaster
Old 10-21-2011, 06:06 AM   #1
 
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My tank is a disaster

I thought my tank was coming along just fine, doing water tests, changes etc., everybody looked happy.

Late last week my ammonia started to rise so I was doing more frequent water changes and then the Ich set in. I'm treating for the Ich but I can't do water changes while doing it.

I'm loosing 1 fish per day to God knows what. The dead fish have been Cardinal Tetras so I'm guessing it's not the Ich ( because that dosen't "look" real bad) but rather I'm thinking it's just poor water conditions.

Can you accurately test water while treating with medications, specifically ADP Ich meds?

I don't know what should take priority.

I'm down to 4-6 Cardinals and one Black Veil Angel in a 36 bow.

Suggestions??
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:13 AM   #2
 
if you have ammonia, water changes are more important and will do more good than the meds. same for nitrites. ammonia and nitrites are far more deadly to the fish than ich. i wouldn't bother with meds at this point. ich is stress related and is probably because of your ammonia right now. get your levels under control and see if it doesn't clear up on it's own.
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n2fish (10-21-2011)
Old 10-21-2011, 07:39 AM   #3
 
You aren't clear, but it sounds like this is a new (tank) setup and you are seeing a typical ammonia spike?
Are you sure the problem is ick? I ask because often adverse water conditions, especially in newer tanks are actually a fungus that merely looks like ick. When I was first establishing my 60g, my Mollies came down with what at first looked like ick, but I later decided was a fungus (other fish 'seemed' okay). I moved them to a hospital tank and treated with tank buddies fungus med. Cleared up right away and after a suitable period, I moved them back to the main tank. Within days, the white spots were back and they looked aweful. In the meantime, other fish were stressed (clamped fins, hunkering on the bottom) - a significant water change bounced them back!

Make a long story short or a short story long, the mollies seemed to be ultra sensitive to the water conditions and it wasn't until the tank had fully cycled that they could live there - I'm sorry to say that the two females did not survive the overall ordeal (couple with a male that would never let them rest). I still have the male, but from time to time he appears sickly, even though the Platy's and Tetras are very healthy.

If your ammonia is high, I suggest a 50% water change with aggressive gravel siphoning. Stop treating for ick unless you're 100% positive it is ick. It's likely the highly toxic ammonia will kill your fish faster than ick.
Can you setup a small hospital tank to treat fish outside your main tank?
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:01 AM   #4
 
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Yea, it's a new tank. I also have ammonia in my tap water so that doesn't help. It (the ammonia in tap water) seems to dissipate when I treat with Prime and let set for a couple days.

My tapwater PH is off the charts high using the APD liquid test for High PH (I used the Low PH test first and it was off the charts high). That also seems to come down quite a bit with Prime and setting for a couple days. I have even taken to using an eye dropper and putting a drop or two of PH Down per gallon of the tap water while it sits.

The Ich - pretty sure it's Ich, the fish look like they have been sprinkled with salt crystals.

I work with a guy that says Ich is in every tank but dosen't manifest itself unless the fish are stressed, which poor water conditions would do of course.

OK, big water change tonight when I get home and prepare for more changes over the weekend I guess.

Thank you
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:16 PM   #5
 
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Treating tap water with something like Prime, what do you guys feel is the minimum you let tap water "breathe"? I always figured on a minimum of 24hrs.

I need to do these water changes but I'm not set up with enough gallon jugs to do 50% Currently I have 8-9 gallons always on standby and I just used those up doing a change in the last hour. (approx a 20% change).


I'll fix that tomorrow and go to Wally World and get some more of those 2-1/2 gallon jugs of drinking water.
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Old 10-21-2011, 05:11 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2fish View Post
Treating tap water with something like Prime, what do you guys feel is the minimum you let tap water "breathe"? I always figured on a minimum of 24hrs.

I need to do these water changes but I'm not set up with enough gallon jugs to do 50% Currently I have 8-9 gallons always on standby and I just used those up doing a change in the last hour. (approx a 20% change).


I'll fix that tomorrow and go to Wally World and get some more of those 2-1/2 gallon jugs of drinking water.

I am sorry to hear about your fish. I agree that water changes is the most important thing at this point. I would add prime at every water change. What I do is fill with a hose (python) right from the tap and add the Prime as I am doing that. I still believe that clean, fresh water is the secret to a healthy tank. Do you have live plants to help use up some of that Ammonia? That would also be a good option, over and above the water changes.
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:04 PM   #7
 
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Quote:
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Do you have live plants to help use up some of that Ammonia? That would also be a good option, over and above the water changes.
I certainly appreciate your input...

Yes, I have
(1) Amazon Sword
(4) Brazilian Pennywort (planted)
(1) Pigmy Chain Sword
(1) Anubias Nana Petite
(2) Anubias Barteri Var. Nana
(3) Moss Balls
(5-6) Vallisneria Spiralis

I put fertilizer tablets near most of these plants, could the fertilizer be adding to the ammonia issue?

I will post water tests tomorrow. I need everything to settle a bit after Ich meds, then a water change with agressive gravel cleaning where I could.

I currently have NO carbon in my filter just FYI, took out the older filter cartridge and replaced it with a new one that I cut open and took the carbon out.

Taking that older cartridge filter out (3-4 weeks old) may be contributing to the ammonia? I'm sure I must have lost a significant amout of "good" bactieria doing so?

Last edited by n2fish; 10-21-2011 at 06:09 PM..
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:25 PM   #8
 
Prime works almost instantly - there are folks here that add Prime at the same time they add chlorinated water directly to the tank!
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n2fish (10-22-2011)
Old 10-22-2011, 02:33 AM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inga View Post
What I do is fill with a hose (python) right from the tap and add the Prime as I am doing that.
I would love to be able to do that but with the 1.5 ammonia and the PH +8.8 coming out of my tap I'm not sure I can.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:36 AM   #10
 
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Hi n2fish. Just a few basics, and I'm not an expert... you need Byron to chime in here! Let's hope he adds his input.
Prime is THE best. You do not need to let any water rest or sit. He hooks up his Python and literally squirts the Prime into the tank and it works INSTANTLY to neutralize the chlorine. I believe it is still there but neutralized. So don't bother with the extra jugs. If and when you can, invest in a direct hose hook up like a Python, they are fabulous and I will never haul a bucket of water again. There are several brands out there, approx $25 - $50. You need to know the distance from the closest tap to your tank.
As for PH, mine is very high also at 8.2-8.4 and my water also has ammonia of .20 right out of the tap.
Recheck that tap water reading, it seems high. maybe your city water people just did a chlorine dump into the system, they do that from time to time without warning.
Are you using the Liquid API test kit? That is important as the little stick ones' are unreliable as they absorb humidity and can read incorrectly and give inaccurate readings. Please get one of these too as soon as you can. I'm sorry I don't know people's budgets and hate asking people to spend more money but it is a must. lol. sorry
How long has this tank been up and running?
Your plants should be absorbing a lot of the ammonia too.
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