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My tank is cycling again !!! Help. What should I do?

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My tank is cycling again !!! Help. What should I do?
Old 03-26-2014, 08:27 PM   #11
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Really? Oh geeze, my water sprite takes over EVERYTHING when I add it to any tanks! I routinely have to trim off the babies and either throw them away, sell them or throw them in an extra tank if I actually happen to have any lol

I agree with the duckweed, once you have it you'll never get rid of it! So just be mindful of that, it also blocks out the light for plants under it if you happen to have other ones. If you just have fake plants under them it could be okay but I'd still definitely go with one of ones that BWG posted for sure!

I also only feed once a day and fast 2-3 days in a row just because I'm not at home for those days but the fish don't mind :) they can easily live months without food, of course it's not terribly healthy for them to do so but it is possible!
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:35 PM   #12
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It's okay BWG, I did got my water tested at the shop every thing was zero except for nitrate which was 10ppm then they told me it that my tank was cycled.

I will go and purchase some plant tonight :) I tested my tap water everything it was 0 and ph was 6.8. Is it common for molly to eat baby snail? i watch him yesterday morning and he ate a few. I can't seem to find any baby snails at the moment in my tank.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:47 PM   #13
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Yeah, that's pretty common. I had a sorority who wiped out my snail infestation in just a few hours lol How many snails are in the tank/what kind? They also contribute highly to the bio-load so that could also be an issue.

As for the levels getting to zero, that's great but as I said, we generally like to test for at least a week after the initial test at zero. Sometimes it can be false as yours might have been and you just caught it at a good moment is all. But now you know for the future!

So all you can really do now is just keep up with water changes daily if you can. Don't feed for at least a week so you can get the ammonia under control and then feed sparingly every other day or so. What kind of food do you have and what are the first three ingredients?

Even though it is recommended with Fish-Less cycling to immediately add your fish, it depends on which type you used. With food cycling I find that you don't grow as much bacteria, it is just enough to take care of the food waste but not enough to take care of a molly, a betta and whatever snails you have in there. With using pure ammonia you can increase the ammonia so that the bacteria can handle a larger bioload when the fish are introduced after the cycle is done.

Also, I do agree that Molly's get much too big for a tank that size, they can reach up to 5 inches but generally on average of 3 inches. Regardless of size, Molly's are livebearers and livebearers tend to be rather messy and poop a lot lol. Bettas on the other hand do not poop as much, once a day generally at most sometimes twice but it's not as much and not as often so they have less of a bioload. And then snails, even Nerite snails which poo the least amount of all the freshwater snails, still poo's a lot. Any fish/invert that eats algae will poop a lot, shrimp not as much though.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:06 PM   #14
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I did have 10 baby snails but they seem to disappeared and 1 nitrite snail (full grown) in the tank.
The food that I am feeding for my siamsee fish is:
Betta Granules - Aquarium (this is my local brand) , it doesn't say much except for shrimp and fish based protein.

Nutrafin Max flakes - cereal, fish and fish derivaties, molluscs and crustacean

For my molly I had realized he doesn't come up to the surface to eat so i only give 1 small pinch since the Siamese always eats the food and he eats the left overs. He does poop all lot lol.

Last edited by MissBec; 03-26-2014 at 09:15 PM..
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:12 AM   #15
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I just brought regular pink baby tears for my tank. I tested the water before adding them it is, what should i do next??
Ammonia 2ppm - 4ppm
Ph 7.6
nitrite 0.25ppm
Nitrate 20ppm
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:20 AM   #16
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What kind of lights do you have? Baby Tears generally require high lighting situation and depending on the type, they prefer co2 addition as well.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:27 AM   #17
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I have 11 watt... Man I feel like I'm not getting anything right
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:36 AM   #18
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It's okay, this stuff happens but you learn from it!

Do you know what the Kelvin rating is of the bulb? I assume it might be an Incandescent bulb? Does the light look orange-ish? The Kelvin Rating is the color temperature of the bulb, most incandescent bulbs--well frankly, they suck and aren't good for anything except not growing algae lol. The typical incandescent that comes with a tank is around 2,000 Kelvin. For optimal color temp you want 6,500K or higher to grow plants.

I've personally never seen an incandescent above 4,000K lol but for cost efficiency and a better light you should look for a CFL or Compact Fluorescent Light which won't heat up your water like incandescent's do. Fluorescent's also use less energy which is what your wattage measures so you can easily have a 7-9 watts and be waaaaayyyy more efficient than any Incandescent light!

Hope this helps, let me know if something doesn't make sense.

Also, I found my Mini CFL's at Wal-mart at 6,500K, it was a 3 pack for only 2.88! Pretty cheap and awesome if you ask me ^_^
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:32 PM   #19
There are three species of baby tears: giant (Hemianthus umbrosom) which are rarely seen here but yeah I have no clue what kind of plants are sold there, regular which is also called pearl grass (Hemianthus glomeratus but usually sold as Hemianthus micranthemoides), and dwarf (Hemianthus callitrichoides). If that's not confusing enough there's a terrestrial plant called the same thing that wouldn't grow underwater.

The regular is easier to keep than the dwarf. I've actually heard of people keeping it in low light/low tech tanks. Dwarf baby tears on the other hand do better with a lot of light and CO2, but then most plants do.

Long winded explanation short. You might be ok. :)

Oh and yeah I killed watersprite :/ One of my very first plants and something I plan to try again. It never grew at all. The wisteria I added at the same time did enough for both. Going to try my hand to the watersprite again though when I find some.

Last edited by BWG; 03-27-2014 at 03:38 PM..
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #20
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With the light it compact fluorescent 11 watts, 11 watt ballast, Ac210V50Hz. Oscar Enterprises Inc.
Nominal current: 0.155Amp

I cant see what the kevin rating is but the light is bright white, the shop that i brought the plants from had low light... finger cross

I did tested water this morning, it look all lot better today :)
Ph 6.8
Ammonia 0.50ppm
Nitrite 0.25ppm
Nitrate 10 - 20ppm

what should i do next?
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