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My Planned Tank Setup

3K views 25 replies 7 participants last post by  The Game 
#1 ·
Ok guys, some of you may have seen my other posts asking how some fish will be together. I think I know what I want to get. I already have the tank all set up. It is a 3ft tank with a sand substrate and rice growing. I will plant some other types of plants (not decided yet) and I will add a piece of driftwood. Landscaping isn't completely decided yet. I would like to have 5 female betta splendens, 3 bronze corydoras, 3 peppered corydoras, 6 kuhli loaches, 1 ramshorn snail and maybe a bristlenose pleco if the ramshorn snail can't handle the algae. Any suggestions are welcome. I know that corydoras should be kept in groups of around 4 or more of the same species but some say that it should be ok. If this is not ok, then I will just buy 5 of either the peppered or bronze. If this is the case, please tell me which one is better as they are both great looking fishes. Someone has to make the decision for me. :-D
I entered in all this on aqadvisor, a great site for thsoe that don't know about it, it calculates how much you can stock your tank with fish, just try it out and you'll know what I'm talking about. Anyways, here's the link with my planned setup, AqAdvisor - Intelligent Freshwater Tropical Fish Aquarium Stocking Calculator and Aquarium Tank/Filter Advisor .
If everything is all good, then everything should be all set up by December and I will include a picture of what hopefully will be a successfull and great looking tank. Thanks for any help.
 
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#2 ·
My thoughts:

I think you'd need a bigger tank to have a bristlenose.

Do Kuhli loaches live down the bottom? If so, you've got a lot of bottom-dwellers there. The cories get quite big once you've got them in your tank. They aren't little like the ones in the shops. I'd be inclined to have either the kuhli loaches or the cories, not both, if they are both bottom-dwelling fish.

AqAdvisor has your selection at 118% tank stocking level. I've thought that AqAdvisor was quite generous in how many fish it allows, so I'd consider having fewer fish than you've selected.

Have you got a backup plan in case the female bettas try to kill each other? Although they aren't like the males, as I understand it, you can get aggression issues depending on the fish.
 
#4 ·
Your female bettas will be fine but you need to make sure they have lots of plants and hidding places. They will form a pecking order and 5 is a good number to make sure one does not get picked on in excess. Its best if you add them all at one time that way there is not one or two that already has set territorys picked out. I to would suggest doing either corys or kuli loaches but not both. If you want to see them then you should go with the corys. They are very active and alot of fun to watch.
 
#5 ·
May I just ask why not corys and kuhlis? I really like them both and I want the kuhlis to dig around in the substrate so I dont get any anaerobic action going on but I also want to see how fun the corys are. I cant get any MTS here in Australia if you were going to reccommend them for aerating the soil. The substrate is quite deep, around 2 inches, so plenty of space to dig through.
 
#6 ·
Two competeing bottom feeders often results in one species being short changed with respect to food. The Kuhli loaches are often times shy and reclusive where the cory's are always on the lookout for something to eat.
Trying to feed both species could result in too much food being offered and water quality issues between weekly water changes.
The Kuhli loaches will not be able to compete for their share of food with a shoal of much more active cory's in my opinion/ expieriences with both.
Not saying you can't do as you wish ,just trying to provide you with info which you may wish to consider.
 
#7 ·
oh ok thats a fair explaination. Corys eat vegies yea? Could I just try feeding them vegies while the kuhlis eat the shrimp pellets. Im also introducing the corys first, would I be able to train them to eat from one side of the tank and the kuhlis from the other side. If this is so, which side would the corys or kuhlis prefer, the side with the filter or the side without. I may even try hiding some shrimp pellets where the kuhlis like to hide or maybe in an area that only they can squeeze into, itll be their own little private restaurant.
 
#8 ·
oh ok thats a fair explaination. Corys eat vegies yea? Could I just try feeding them vegies while the kuhlis eat the shrimp pellets. Im also introducing the corys first, would I be able to train them to eat from one side of the tank and the kuhlis from the other side. If this is so, which side would the corys or kuhlis prefer, the side with the filter or the side without. I may even try hiding some shrimp pellets where the kuhlis like to hide or maybe in an area that only they can squeeze into, itll be their own little private restaurant.


Both species will go where the food is and it is doubtful that they would/will remain in one area. Both are omnivores and will eat/need a wide range of foods. Same with the Bristlenose you mentioned earlier.
Bristlenose will also need some driftwood to help with digestive process and creating an area of wood and or rocks will make the kuhli loaches feel more secure but in all probability result in seeing less of them as well.
Researching the fishes needs with respect to diets and tank layout is always a good idea .Don't take one or two opinions before performing your own research. Google is your friend.;-)
 
#9 ·
LOL google. Well I've actually done my research quite a bit already. I also read that given enough hiding places, the kuhli loaches will be more active, like it makes them more secure and gives them the knowledge that if a threat were to approach, they would have multiple hiding/escape options. I really want to have a natural look and landscape. I also want to provide my fishes with hiding spots but I can't think of how to create these. Ive seen heaps of little ornament castles and the likes of those, but if theres one thing I hate, its little ornaments or plastic plants. Im going to have a piece of driftwood, the biggest that I can find and afford but how else can I provide hiding spots? You mentioned rocks, what kind of rocks are you talking about and how do I arrange them? Any plants that you would reccommend too? Im still quite intent on having the kuhli loaches and peppered corydoras (LOL i made up my mind on which one I wanted). I know that this is quite stubborn of me. However, Im going to closely monitor the loaches and corys and see if both species is getting enough food. If the kuhlis arent getting their food, then Im going to move the corys into another tank, even though I really want them in that tank with the nice sand substrate that they love. Should I introduce the corys or loaches into the tank first or is both at the same time the good way to go. LOL I know thats a lot of questions and thanks for answering my previous questions. :D
 
#10 · (Edited)
LOL google. Well I've actually done my research quite a bit already. I also read that given enough hiding places, the kuhli loaches will be more active, like it makes them more secure and gives them the knowledge that if a threat were to approach, they would have multiple hiding/escape options. I really want to have a natural look and landscape. I also want to provide my fishes with hiding spots but I can't think of how to create these. Ive seen heaps of little ornament castles and the likes of those, but if theres one thing I hate, its little ornaments or plastic plants. Im going to have a piece of driftwood, the biggest that I can find and afford but how else can I provide hiding spots? You mentioned rocks, what kind of rocks are you talking about and how do I arrange them? Any plants that you would reccommend too? Im still quite intent on having the kuhli loaches and peppered corydoras (LOL i made up my mind on which one I wanted). I know that this is quite stubborn of me. However, Im going to closely monitor the loaches and corys and see if both species is getting enough food. If the kuhlis arent getting their food, then Im going to move the corys into another tank, even though I really want them in that tank with the nice sand substrate that they love. Should I introduce the corys or loaches into the tank first or is both at the same time the good way to go. LOL I know thats a lot of questions and thanks for answering my previous questions. :D[/quote



Yes ,you are wise to provide several resting areas ,or places of refuge. The more areas ,the more likely the loaches as well as the cory's ,will be to venture out. With just one such place,,they will spend the majority of time in that one place.
Were it me,, i would use perhaps sevral medium pieces of wood along with the large piece. I would visit local landscape stores and search for smooth fist sized river stones and perhaps some pieces of slate,and or flagstone. I would arrange the smooth river stones in a couple piles with wood laying up next to the stones and then perhaps place some flat pieces of the slate or flagstone across the river stones and or wood to create a couple such areas.
You'll find that the rocks mentioned are relatively cheap compared to the plastic caves and such ,which I too dislike.
Is important to select smooth river stones and ensure there are no sharp edges to injure the fish. Smooth river stones are also more likely to be safe with respect to not altering your water chemisrty. Some rocks contain minerals that will alter your water and possibly increase the hardness which you don't want.
Smooth stones are usually formed by years of water rushing over them and are less likely to leach substances into the tank and are less likely to cause discomfort for the fish/loaches.
For plant's, I would begin with Anubia's which you can tie to the wood or rock with thread until the roots attach themselves . Would also consider four or five Crypt plants that can grow well with low to moderate light so long as you don't move them too much (maybe never?).Java fern would work also.
Wide leaf sagittaria or vallisneria would also work and could be placed behind the wood,rock, (vallisneria) or midground for the sagittaria.(just my opinion)
These are all things I would explore, and you can /should expieriment until you find what pleases you, as well as what works best for your particular tank with regards to placement of wood,rocks,plants.
Just be sure to rinse everything well before using it in the aquarium and perhaps boil the smaller pieces of wood before using unless you don't mind tannin stained water.(DON"T BOIL ROCKS)
Were it me,,I would place the kuhli loaches first followed by the cory's after ten to fourteen days. Don't add them all at once lest the biological filter not be able to keep up with the sudden demand .Good Luck!
 
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#11 ·
Well Im actually growing rice in this tank as well, part of the project of tryin to recreate a rice paddy fields where the bettas live. Il probably uproot them and replant them in a corner, or just throw them out, seems like such a fussy plant. Anyways, Im not so sure about the Anubias being suitable for my tank, the light source has two tubes, one white, one blue and theyre 39W each. Is that considered strong lighting? Im not too good with plants... and I was reading the profile on Anubias and read that strong light will sorta get brush algae on the leaves and I know that they are difficult to get rid of. Unless that kind of lighting is considered subdued. Im having trouble finding places in Australia that sells floating plants. Ive tried googling Australian aquarium sites that sell plants but no luck there. I may use duckweed but Ive had that before and it grows like crazy. Im only looking for floating plants if the lights I have are considered too bright for Anubias and Java Fern and bright enough to get me an algae problem, as it is, I already have some green algae growing on the walls and gravel but I think its the kind that is easily eaten by snails and catfish. Any suggestions on how to subdue the lighting or find floating plants to reduce the lighting? Thanks for the advice with the aquascaping, will use those ideas.
 
#12 ·
I would search for two full spectrum T8 bulbs at around 32 watts each and would look for something with 5000 to 6000 K rating.
If I could not find such bulbs, I might consider limiting the lighting period to around eight hours and see what the plants do with the bulbs you have.
 
#15 ·
Could not say without knowing what type of bulbs you have, T5, T8, T12. For the plants listed thus far, full spectrum T8 bulbs would produce the best benefits without becoming too intense and encouraging algae in the absence of CO2 and Fertilizers which are both in demand from plants at much higher rate with the more intense bulbs.
 
#17 ·
T=tubular bulb , The number after = size of the bulb (diameter)
T5 =5/8 inch diameter
T8= 1 inch diameter
T12 = 1 1/2 inch diameter.
K rating(kelvin) = Temp and spectrum output.

The two T5 bulbs you have would be considered High light for your tank ,and would increase the demand for CO2 and fertilizers in order to keep up with the demand from plants under this type lighting while not encouraging lots of algae.
If the fixture you have would allow you to run just one bulb (many won't) then perhaps you could use the present fixture and one bulb.
Otherwise ,were it me,, I would look for a fixture that accepts T8 bulbs as described earlier. these would be less intense and would allow plants to grow albeit slowly without addition of CO2 and or fertilizers.
The more intense the light,the more demand from the plants for CO2. The more CO2 the faster the growth and the demand for fertilizers then becomes the limiting factor for growth.
I confess I am not all that well schooled on plants other than easy to grow plants under low to moderate lighting.
When you begin to inject CO2 into the equation,, I am near ignorant.
Byron,who is also a member here would perhaps be able to explain better what I have attempted thus far but I hope you get the drift so to speak.
Were it me,, I would search for a plain old shop light that can be hung over the tank, or laid on top assuming the tank has a lid and slap a couple full spectrum T8 bulbs around 32 watts each with a 5 to 6000 K rating and this would in my view allow you to grow the plants and observe the rate of growth without also fighting a large algae problem.
You can always choose to go with more lighting and or CO2 at some later point after you have examined the pros and cons of low tech method and or high tech with respect to planted aquariums.(research)
I am presently following Non CO2 method described by a gentleman named Tom Barr and thus far am pleased with the results.
There are several ways to grow plants , best to select one method,,and follow it rather than try and incorporate parts of different methods like some folks I know:roll:
I often seem to make things harder on myself before allowing them to become easy.
Would not wish the same for anyone else.
 
#19 ·
I actually wanted to ask what you mean by "1 white and 1 blue"...
I've never seen a "white" light.... If the 'blue' is cool white and the "white" is warm, then in this case you'll be ok. (The main plant is the rice, and it's emersed. Emersed plants like a bit more red.)

If the 'blue' light is actinic or 50/50, you should definately replace it. Did you use soil in the substrate like we were discussing?

If so, you may want to reconsider the kuhlis... It may be fine anyway.
Also, if you want to set up a 'biotope' to match betta's native habitat, then you have other options than just rice paddy fields...
Bettas also live in temporarily flooded lowlands... Not too many plants, but grass stays alive... (Use grassy plants like E.Tenellus and dwarf sag, along with driftwood.)
 
#20 ·
Sounds like a really nice tank definatley need picture..................:-D
 
#21 ·
Yea I may just leave the light issue for now, too much expenses on this tank at the moment and the lights are expensive. As for the CO2 things, I know nothing of it except that it helps plant growth. I think Ill just go with the plants I mentioned before, unless theyre not suitable for my tank? By the way, will pennywort grow well in this tank and eventually cover some part of the water's surface with its leaves? If so, would I be able to have an anubias in the shade of the leaves? Yes, I was trying to create a biotope for the Betta as a school project, but after the project is graded, I just want to use it as a tropical tank, no biotope sort of things with plants and fish that you find in the same area. The blue light is actually blue, like the whole tube looks blue and the tank and the water looks blue when its on. The white light is just the regular colour? Not sure how to describe it, not too good with plants or lights. Yup I used the soil substrate like we discussed, water was cloudy at first but cleared up nicely after a water change. The soil substrate is like an inch of barely washed sandy loam, covered by another inch of completely (well to the best of my abilities) sandy loam, which looks basically just like sand. Im going to buy the female fighters tomorrow and introduce them into the tank with the usual method (float the bag, add some water, net fish out) and then monitor them in case they decide to kill each other. The tank is going to be graded as a biotope, so its going to have to look as much as a rice field as possible.Yea, they let us choose whatever we wanted to do for a year-long project and I chose to research and recreate the betta habitat of rice paddy fields. Its all going well for now, apart from the green algae on the walls and substrate. If the ramshorn snail can't handle it, Im going to get a bristlenose pleco and a piece of driftwood. Bring in the heavy artillery! Ill probably post a picture tomorrow with the fish in the tank.
 
#22 ·
Yes the pennywort will grow and float across the top or you could once it grows some trim it and just leave it floating instead of in the substrate and it will still grow fine. The Anubis will be fine with the pennywort floating on the top. Looking forward to seeing the picture.
 
#23 ·
Well, I don't know if anyone has commented on this but don't loaches eat snails? I've heard their very aggressive towards larger snails such as apple and inca snails. You might need to do a little bit of research before putting those together.
 
#24 ·
Oh yes I had forgot about that small fry is right the loaches will eat your snail so you may want to rethink that. Good catch small fry and welcome to the forum.
 
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