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milky water

This is a discussion on milky water within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> I have a 55 gla freshwater, 3 pumps: 1 pump is rate a 100 gal capacity, 2 pump came with the 55 gal. aquarium ...

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Old 08-08-2011, 06:54 PM   #1
 
milky water

I have a 55 gla freshwater, 3 pumps: 1 pump is rate a 100 gal capacity, 2 pump came with the 55 gal. aquarium and the 3 pump is rated for a 30 gl.
2 bubblers 24" each.
there are 17 fish in the aquarium fed them every other day frozen blood worms or frozen brie shrimp or pellets.
water used to be crystal clear, now the water is milky and cloudy, I have done partial water changes and lately an almost complete water change out of frustation for the problem nothing is working fish are healthy and eating good.
the readings are nitrite 0, amonia 0 , nitrate 0, I know it should be 10 and ph is 6.0 I know it should be 7.0
no matter how much API Proper PH 7.0 I put in the aquarium the PH do not increase to 7.0 and how can I increase the nitrate.
HELP PLEASE
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:17 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus1562 View Post
I have a 55 gla freshwater, 3 pumps: 1 pump is rate a 100 gal capacity, 2 pump came with the 55 gal. aquarium and the 3 pump is rated for a 30 gl.
2 bubblers 24" each.
there are 17 fish in the aquarium fed them every other day frozen blood worms or frozen brie shrimp or pellets.
water used to be crystal clear, now the water is milky and cloudy, I have done partial water changes and lately an almost complete water change out of frustation for the problem nothing is working fish are healthy and eating good.
the readings are nitrite 0, amonia 0 , nitrate 0, I know it should be 10 and ph is 6.0 I know it should be 7.0
no matter how much API Proper PH 7.0 I put in the aquarium the PH do not increase to 7.0 and how can I increase the nitrate.
HELP PLEASE
Hello Zeus and welcome to TFK First to get a better response on your question you will probably want to start a new thread in the appropriate section, where more members are likely to see and answer your questions. As for what is going on with your tank, how long has is been running. With the numbers that you have listed it sounds like your tank is not cycled. The white cloud that you are seeing in the water is a bacteria bloom. If you are not familiar with the cycling process please read the following article, it will help you to understand what is going on with you tank and the process that it goes through http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...91/#post757735 Do you have any live plants in this tank and what type of fish do you have in it? If the tank is not planted you can expect to see a rise in the ammonia level followed by a rise in the nitrites and finally you will start to see nitrates. During this time I would suggest that you test your water on a daily basis and do water changes as needed. What type of testing kit are you using, if you are using the stick tests I would strongly recommend using a liquid test kit like API master test kit. The liquid test kits are more realiable than the stick ones and you get more tests for your money than you do on the strip tests. As for feeding the frozen blood worms and brine shrimp I would feed them only once or twice a week as a treat. Fish can run into problems if they eat too many blood worms, and from my understanding brine shrimp have very little nutritional value, baby brine shrimp are good for feeding fry, but after the shirmp reach a certain size they lose their value.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:24 PM   #3
 
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Welcome to Tropical Fish Keeping forum.

I concur with what Barb mentioned, and that probably answers the nitrate issue. But I also want to comment on the pH issue, as it seems like you have a misunderstanding.

The pH of water is closely connected to the mineral hardness. Barb referred you to one of my articles on bacteria, and I'm going to refer you to the one on hardness and pH, as it will provide a more detailed explanation rather than my typing it all here. The article is:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/freshwater-articles/water-hardness-ph-freshwater-aquarium-73276/

As you will note therein, trying to adjust the pH in water that has significant KH will usually fail. And the resulting fluctuating pH is very stressful on fish, and it weakens their immune system. Please stop using the adjusting chemicals until we sort this out.

And in that regard, can you give us the hardness numbers for your tap water. GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness, or sometimes called Alkalinity). You can get this info from your water supply people, no need to buy test kits. Also, what is the pH of the tap water? When we have the numbers I can continue on this aspect.

But that brings up the question, why you want to raise the pH from 6 to 7? Some fish prefer acidic water (pH below 7), others prefer or need basic water (pH above 7), many are adaptable around 7. What are the 17 fish you have? This will tell us if there is a need to alter the pH or not.

Byron.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:31 PM   #4
 
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Thanks Byron, I am going to assume that you made this its own thread. Was going to mention the ph issue also slipped my mind, lol and today I can't blame it on a long work day, maybe a long weekend at work will do I agree with Byron I would stop using the chemicals to adjust the ph, the sudden shifts in the ph will actually be more harmful to your fish.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:47 PM   #5
 
thanks for welcome me to the forum I'm sorry for posting my question in the wrong place I'm still trying to figer how to ask questions in the right place again sorry.
I use R.O. water or bottle drinking water also I been upgrading from a 3 gal. tank to now to a 55 gal.
tank is been set up for 3 or 4 months never have this problem before water was always cristal clear.
about 1" to 1"1/2 of smal pebles from dollar store. Plastic plants, a piece of drift wood, plastic coral all purchased at the local pet store.
2 Discus--2"
2 Angles--2"
3 Gourinamis--2"
2 Red tail cat fish--6" and 4"
1 Silver Dollar--2"
1 Tiger cat fish--3"
1 Leopard cat fish--2"
2 Danios--1"1/2
1 Zebra danio--1"
2 Bala sharks--5" and 3"
I'm using liquid API master test kit.
Because of the resent problems with the water condition I have been doing several partial water changes and out of desperation trying to find a solution for the problem I did a 90% water change two weeks ago, the water clear for a day or two and now back to milky water, at the local pet store they have recomend me Algaaway 5.4, Clarifired plus, Liquid gravel vac, PH stable.
I used Amquel plus, API 7.0 PH
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:49 PM   #6
 
OH I forget the water temperature is 82 degrees
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Old 08-08-2011, 10:23 PM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeus1562 View Post
thanks for welcome me to the forum I'm sorry for posting my question in the wrong place I'm still trying to figer how to ask questions in the right place again sorry.
I use R.O. water or bottle drinking water also I been upgrading from a 3 gal. tank to now to a 55 gal.
tank is been set up for 3 or 4 months never have this problem before water was always cristal clear.
about 1" to 1"1/2 of smal pebles from dollar store. Plastic plants, a piece of drift wood, plastic coral all purchased at the local pet store.
2 Discus--2"
2 Angles--2"
3 Gourinamis--2"
2 Red tail cat fish--6" and 4"
1 Silver Dollar--2"
1 Tiger cat fish--3"
1 Leopard cat fish--2"
2 Danios--1"1/2
1 Zebra danio--1"
2 Bala sharks--5" and 3"
I'm using liquid API master test kit.
Because of the resent problems with the water condition I have been doing several partial water changes and out of desperation trying to find a solution for the problem I did a 90% water change two weeks ago, the water clear for a day or two and now back to milky water, at the local pet store they have recomend me Algaaway 5.4, Clarifired plus, Liquid gravel vac, PH stable.
I used Amquel plus, API 7.0 PH
Not a problem, to start a new thread all you need to do is go into the section that is appropiate, at the top of the section you will see towards the top on the left "New Thread", just click on that and away you go. With the tank being set up for 3-4 months have you gone through the cycling process, as explained above? Have you recently changed the substrate? What type of filter are you using? What is your maintence routine for this tank? By this time I would think that you would have a reading on your nitrates.

As for chemicals, the only thing that I would suggest using is a good water conditioner, although with using ro water I am not sure if you actually need that. Is there a specific reason that you are using ro water, not to say you shouldn't, but it can get very pricey.

For your stocking I would suggest that you read the profiles on these fish, you can find the link for the tropical fish profiles at the top of the page second tab from the left. With angels and discus they both need to be kept in groups of 5-6, and usually it is not recommended to keep the two different types of fish together. Gouramis also do not make suitable tankmates for angels. Silver dollars, danios, zebra danios, leopard cory need to be kept in groups of at least 6 of each species. Bala shark needs to be kept also in a group of at least 5 and a 6 foot minimum tank is required for them.
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Old 08-09-2011, 12:56 PM   #8
 
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I'll just expand a bit on what Barb has mentioned, starting with the last issue, the fish stocking. This is going to cause problems soon, and you are going to have to decide on removing some of the fish which are not suitable. I won't go further with this, let's get the tank stabilized first--although the mix of fish is an issue here too.

Some live plants would help, they are nature's filters and work wonders. But we can talk about that later.

First, stop using chemicals in the tank, they usually do not work and they are harmful. Aside from the specific issues with each, when chemicals are combined there can be a reaction causing even more trouble, including cloudy water.

Those water clarifier products may clear the water but two things: (1) without solving the actual cause, it will likely return, and (2) even more important, they do harm the fish. Clarifiers work by binding minuscule particles into larger particles that can more easily and quickly be removed by the filter [the particles being larger and more likely to be trapped by pads/floss, etc]. Unfortunately, the binding agents also bind the fish gills, causing stress and difficulty respirating. Do not use this stuff, please.

The pH I already mentioned, it is not going to work and may be a cause of some of the water trouble. What is your tap water hardness and pH? We must know this in order to deal with this issue.

Byron.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:25 PM   #9
 
I use R.O. water or bottle drinking water also I been upgrading from a 3 gal. tank to now to a 55 gal.
tank is been set up for 3 or 4 months never have this problem before water was always cristal clear.
about 1" to 1"1/2 of smal pebles from dollar store. Plastic plants, a piece of drift wood, plastic coral all purchased at the local pet store.
1 pump is a cascade 300, 2 pump is an Aquaon for 100 gal with 2 filters inside, 3 pump is also an Aquaon for a 50 gal. 1 filter, also I put 100 micron pads on all the bio filters and carbon pads



Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...#ixzz1UaVkZHjR
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:29 PM   #10
 
sorry I forgot to metion I try several times with the plants and they eat them
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