Maintaining a Quarantine Tank - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-20-2011, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Maintaining a Quarantine Tank

Hi all,

I just started my 75 gallon cichlid tank and am now thinking about a quarantine tank.

First off, what is a recommended size? Should there be any gravel or decor in the tank to minimize the stress, or is there a problem with that? Also, how do you keep the tank going when it has been cycled, but there are no sick fish?

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post #2 of 6 Old 08-21-2011, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 29Kilo29 View Post
Hi all,

I just started my 75 gallon cichlid tank and am now thinking about a quarantine tank.

First off, what is a recommended size? Should there be any gravel or decor in the tank to minimize the stress, or is there a problem with that? Also, how do you keep the tank going when it has been cycled, but there are no sick fish?

I would suggest 20 gal quarantine tank with plastic plant's or clay pot's depending on species being quarantined.
Maybe just enough substrate to prevent glare from light bouncing off bottom glass.
You could run extra filter on main tank, and move it to the quarantine tank when needed.So long as filters have active bacterial colony ,the placement of mature filter from main tank to quarantine tank, should provide for a few small fish in quarantine.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-21-2011, 09:42 AM
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You will find varying opinions on QT. Some recommend quite a sterile tank, nothing but water (with filter and heater obviously). I go the opposite extreme and have mine planted. The nice aspect of this is never having cycling issues. The tank just runs as a small planted tank with some snails. A 20g is a good size if you have space, but a 10g can do unless you acquire largish fish. I must confess that I do not always quarantine new fish; it depends upon the fish, and the source. It is a risk. For newish hobbyists i would recommend a QT, it is much easier to handle issues.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #4 of 6 Old 08-22-2011, 01:23 AM
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I would not place plant's in quarantine tank's where medication's may be needed but that's just me.
Some medication's along with salt heat method for treating parasites are hard on plant's.
Parasites also are very good at winding up in substrates and substrate deeper than a half inch just makes getting rid of the little @*%!! more3 tedious.
I too sometimes don't use quarantine and have paid the price on occasion.
Nothing sucks more in my view, than winding up with large aquarium planted or otherwise ,full of sick fishes that newly purchased fishes were possibly responsible for.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #5 of 6 Old 08-22-2011, 07:22 AM
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I don't leave my QT running. When I have to set it up, I just borrow some filter floss from the 75 gallon and put it in the filter on the QT.

I also leave it bare bottom but use silk plants and a cave-like ornament for security.

Animal testing is a terrible idea; they get all nervous and give the wrong answers.
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post #6 of 6 Old 08-22-2011, 06:35 PM
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+1 romad's keep it bare so you can set it up and take it down as quick as possible just plastic plants and objects to reduce stress from not having a place to hide, I would just use a small sponge filter though, you can keep it going in your main tank until its needed.
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