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I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit.

This is a discussion on I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit. within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> JDM, That was one of my mistakes, I got over zealous with the aquarium one day and went a little over board. I'm learning ...

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I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit.
Old 04-27-2013, 09:21 PM   #41
 
JDM,

That was one of my mistakes, I got over zealous with the aquarium one day and went a little over board. I'm learning from LED lights as I go. We didn't have that kind of lighting when I was a kid or teen with aquariums. It's my first time having LED lights.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:49 PM   #42
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I am looking to upgrade now, my 8 watt LED over a 37 gallon is great for crypts and java fern and lots of medium light plants but I want to have more surface plants so I need more light to get enough to the bottom. I'm just in the middle of a debate over the next size up options and seeing your setup might help.... I would would offer to take one of those fixtures off your hands if you end up with only one long term but it's larger than I need.

Jeff.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:01 PM   #43
 
Update

To Byron especially and everyone else who chimed in to assist me with my huge algae issue that was driving me insane.

First to Byron, you are the man! Following your instructions to the letter in as little as 5 days almost 70 to 80% of the GHA is gone. It has either died and withered away or my otos have munched it. The GSA is completely gone off the aquarium glass but some still remains on the gravel. The BBA is still there but the fight continues.
The live plants seem to be doing well still, I am watching them.

To everyone else that pushed me to keep going forward and continue the fight when I wanted to quit, gave me tips on what i should do and discussed with me what needed to be done. I want to thank you all. I appreciate everything fellow tropical fish keepers. Thank you.

The aquarium is looking better than ever before.
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Old 05-01-2013, 07:29 PM   #44
 
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bba will stay there till u take it out but glad to hear everythings cleared up!!
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:25 PM   #45
 
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I do like success stories. And thanks for the kind words.

As Mitch said, brush algae will not go away, and nothing will eat it (nothing you have), but that's fine; the goal is to have it not increasing, and that stage is success. The leaves with brush algae may slowly yellow and die, and can be removed as new growth free of algae appears.

Green spot algae won't go away unless you remove it, which is easier off the glass. The trick with this is not to let it start, as it is just "there" in some tanks regardless of other factors. I can see this in my two largest tanks of 7, but only if I fail to clean the front glass at every water change. Even if I see nothing, I run one of those aquarium sponge scrapers over the entire inside front glass, and some of the side glass, during the water change.

Byron.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:03 PM   #46
 
I did have to start dosing some phosphorous and potassium in the aquarium. I am dosing very little at the moment. I'm noticing browning and yellowing of new growth. I read on it, a good friend also told me lack of those two nutrients as suggested on here as well. We will see in the next week or two what happenes.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:21 PM   #47
 
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keeping what you have stated in perspective here i am going to have to respectfully disagree. he says he is using pressurized Co2 high light and pre mixed fertilizer. the amounts of macros N,P and K that are mixed within most premixed liquid ferts such as flourish comp in this case is minimal.

my theory is his plants are burning through the macros faster then he is adding them. and with using the flourish comp and flourish trace he is adding a tonf of micros there. i cant see the plants using all thoce micros without comparable macros. from my algae that you helped me with Byron trace and light intencity were my issues (too much of them) since switching some things and stopping the addition of micros and trace and sticking with tabs and comp fert i haven't had a algae outbreak since.

P.S to OP load the pic into paint and rotate it, my pics do the same thing,.
not saying I told you so but.... :P
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:57 PM   #48
 
Yeah, you told me so, LOL. I accept that. Live and learn, thank you for the advice.
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:38 PM   #49
 
Moneymitch, I tested my water for phosphates right out of the tap. I didn't even register as far as any amount of phosphates at all. Absolutely zero phosphates. I also did a little research and after a few phones calls and long wait times. The water supply company for my area also told me that there is very little potassium in my tap water.

What I've learned. Macro/micro nutrients have to be thought if in tap and aquarium water when it comes to having a lush, algae free aquarium. Dose the correct amounts and monitor everything. Fish, plants, shrimp, algae. To much light, ferts and CO2 is not a good thing.

Thanks to everyone here I have slowly but surely figured out how to do all this properly to achieve that natural beautiful look we all hope to get.

It's still a work in progress. Manual removal of BBA helps, it's a daily progress. The rest is all balance and patience.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:35 AM   #50
 
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I did have to start dosing some phosphorous and potassium in the aquarium. I am dosing very little at the moment. I'm noticing browning and yellowing of new growth. I read on it, a good friend also told me lack of those two nutrients as suggested on here as well. We will see in the next week or two what happenes.
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Be careful here. Phosphate should not have to be added to any aquarium with fish, as even with minimal feedings there will be more than enough for plants. The "average" aquarium can have phosphates in the range of 1 to 3 mg/liter (= ppm), while natural waters contain something in the region of 0.005 to 0.02 mg/l, which is certainly sufficient for plants. I've never used a phosphate test kit, so I've no idea how accurately they measure. But I do know that in more than 20 years I have never added phosphates and I certainly have no issues. My tap water is so nutrient-poor it is almost RO.

As for potassium, the amount in prepared fertilizers shoud be sufficient in natural (low-tech) systems. Now, I realize you are using diffused CO2 [I assume this is still running], but as i said previously (I think) changes have to be given time to work. It has only been less than one week since drastic changes were made (half the light, etc) and I would give the system 2-3 weeks minimum before jumping to conclusions. And everytime you start adding something else, you are throwing the balance off yet again. This is where alge has an advantage.

I wuld like to see a photo of the new leaf growth, as it may be something entirely different.
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