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I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit.

This is a discussion on I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit. within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Here are some pics of the BBA,GSA and GHA You can see the GSA all over the gravel with the BBA and the GHA ...

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I need advice/help. I'm frustrated and want to quit.
Old 04-27-2013, 02:52 PM   #21
 
Here are some pics of the BBA,GSA and GHA

You can see the GSA all over the gravel with the BBA and the GHA on the glass. It is on the leaves and plants but my camera is not good at taking a picture of it.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:55 PM   #22
 
Some more pics. I don't understand why they are coming out side ways, lol
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:56 PM   #23
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MM, I've heard of that too.
Well the amount of H2O2 required to kill algae usually kills off crs/cbs...
not sure about oebts.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:56 PM   #24
 
Here is the GHA it's all over the glass but this was the best angle I could get to see it via picture.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #25
 
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The GH here in Linda vista San Diego is 263ppm according to the municipal water supply report. Is that pretty high or normal?
As Jeff has already said, this is "fairly hard," to use a subjective term from my article on GH. Mixing RO in with this certainly won't hurt the fish mentioned initially, and so long as it is not sufficient to bother the shrimp. And it will still leave sufficient hard mineral for the plants.

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Byron, I will take your advice and stop using the excel. I was told to use excel with a syringe and put it right on the BBA. should I try this method?
I have read that this can kill the BBA. This is the only algae I have as a nuisance, and I control it with light and nutrients in balance. Given the extreme toxic properties of Excel--you do know it is glutaraldehyde and water, and the glutaraldehyde is a powerful disinfectant used to sterilize in hospitals, in anti-freeze, in embalming fluid, etc that carries cautions for humans?--I would not put it anywhere near the inside of a fish tank.

Byron.
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:59 PM   #26
 
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stronger macros and seachems equilibrium >.> I always read about RO high tech Co2 people going this route maybe look up Tom Barr?
Moneymitch,

Can you recommend some macros? What does seachems equilibrium do?

Byron, no I didn't know excel had all those chemicals in it. Wow, I won't use it at all from this point on.

Last edited by OSagent23; 04-27-2013 at 03:01 PM..
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:07 PM   #27
 
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Moneymitch,

Can you recommend some macros? What does seachems equilibrium do?
We now know you don't need Equilibrium. I use this to raise the "hard" minerals as I have near-zero GH in my tap water and this is insufficient calcium, magnesium, etc for plants. But the earlier data on your fairly hard GH resolves this question.

As for macros, this is a possibility. Thinking here mainly I assume about nitrogen--ammonium from ammonia is the primary source, from fish respiration and organics breakdown by bacteria in the substrate. There is also phosphorus, and potassium. Phosphorus may be in your tap water, and it is added via fish foods. Potassium also in the tap water, and in Flourish.

I personally would be careful jumping forward here; the balance is out, we know, but doing too much without sufficient time for what is being done to take effect is only going to worsen things. My general approach in such situations is to cut back the unnecessary or problem additives, ensure the remainder are in balance reasonably, and then give the system a couple weeks. I would also do a major clean at the start of this, by which I mean just removing as much algae as you can (like from all the glass).
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:19 PM   #28
 
Byron,

I've limited my light to just one fixture for 6 hours a day instead of both fixtures, stopped using excel, and reduced some of the ferts I've been putting in.

I tried to see if phosphates or potassium is in my water supply by looking at the report but couldn't find if those two are in it. Is there another way to tell. I test for phosphates in my tank and I get zero for results.

I've also gone in and manually removed as much BBA as I could out of the aquarium. Should I just let the things I've done play out for a week or so to see what happens? Do you recommend anything else?
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:43 PM   #29
 
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Originally Posted by Byron View Post
We now know you don't need Equilibrium. I use this to raise the "hard" minerals as I have near-zero GH in my tap water and this is insufficient calcium, magnesium, etc for plants. But the earlier data on your fairly hard GH resolves this question.

As for macros, this is a possibility. Thinking here mainly I assume about nitrogen--ammonium from ammonia is the primary source, from fish respiration and organics breakdown by bacteria in the substrate. There is also phosphorus, and potassium. Phosphorus may be in your tap water, and it is added via fish foods. Potassium also in the tap water, and in Flourish.

I personally would be careful jumping forward here; the balance is out, we know, but doing too much without sufficient time for what is being done to take effect is only going to worsen things. My general approach in such situations is to cut back the unnecessary or problem additives, ensure the remainder are in balance reasonably, and then give the system a couple weeks. I would also do a major clean at the start of this, by which I mean just removing as much algae as you can (like from all the glass).
keeping what you have stated in perspective here i am going to have to respectfully disagree. he says he is using pressurized Co2 high light and pre mixed fertilizer. the amounts of macros N,P and K that are mixed within most premixed liquid ferts such as flourish comp in this case is minimal.

my theory is his plants are burning through the macros faster then he is adding them. and with using the flourish comp and flourish trace he is adding a tonf of micros there. i cant see the plants using all thoce micros without comparable macros. from my algae that you helped me with Byron trace and light intencity were my issues (too much of them) since switching some things and stopping the addition of micros and trace and sticking with tabs and comp fert i haven't had a algae outbreak since.

P.S to OP load the pic into paint and rotate it, my pics do the same thing,.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:12 PM   #30
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perhaps the water changes are throwing the CO2 levels out of whack. I've seen BBA thrive in really low light, I'm not sure if a black out will do it. it often doesn't :( is it possible to just cover the affect area with something (like a large bottle with the bottom cut off) and inject H2O2 to just that area....
then siphon this out later...
for H2O2 to work, you'll need to keep the lights on for treatment...

I think I have an idea for the BBA on the substrate. let me draw it up for you in a sec...
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