How many gallons/how hard to move - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 08:04 AM
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Yes, Drip acclimation is what I would do maybe three to four drops per second, So long as water from tank has been dechlorinated. Can also add a few drops of dechlorinator to bucket if ammonia rises too fast.
Placing some of the saved filter material in bucket is also an option assuming it is still wet in old tank water and has not been subjected to chlorine or chloramines from tap.
After thirty or forty minutes of drip acclimation,,I have at times cheated a little, by adding a cup full of new tank water to bucket in addition to drip at 10 minute interval's.
Would maybe throw towel over the bucket while drip acclimating and leave lights off over the aquarium for 24 hours after fish are introduced to prevent any undo stress.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #22 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
I let it drip from ~half full (with a sponge from the cannister that i had rinsed some foul gunk off of, but not all) to about 7/8ths full over the course of an hour and a half last night. then i skimmed the bucket for leftover plant stuff (she had this really gross looking, red kelp feeling, sickly green colored plant that was all over the top of the tank - i got rid of it.)

Then i tried to catch a few, but only got the tetras without stressing everyone out. I don't have a nylon-style net large enough to catch the angel without its barbs getting stuck (i wish she'd told me that the angel had barbs and she didn't have a net for it) so i ended up just gently pouring a couple gallons of the bucket water into the tank. I tested ammonia a few minutes ago and it all looks good. I'll watch ammonia and nitrites today, as well as temperature.

For the biological/mechanical it's an Eheim 105 L/h canister, i completely stripped one level of the filter and replaced the little balls, i put in a new top filter media (cotton looking stuff), and cleared out the bottom sponge just enough so water could flow through it again. before i did that i brought it to the tank and squeezed some of the brown liquid out into the tank (prior to the fish going in by like 4 hours) and swished it around like i saw in a "quick cycle guide" on youtube. THen i rinsed the bottom layer of balls off a bit, filled the cannister and put the filter in, locked it back up and let it filter the tank for about 4 hours before adding the fish.

The flow on the filter looks REALLY good. If i maintain it, is105 L/h enough to keep the tank happy if i plant it well and do water changes? I really stay on top of tank maintenance and having this sand bottom makes my life easier.

edit: Pictures coming in a minute.

Last edited by genewitch; 08-16-2011 at 12:40 PM. Reason: note that pictures are coming.
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post #23 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
These are clickable for full size, hooray for figuring out forum editing!

I need to clean the glass, but since i am doing maintenance still i figured it could wait till the tank was planted and stuff. I tend to make a mess on the floor when i do that stuff:

There's also the three tetras(?) in this shot.

here's the Angel, and 1 Cory (Fake Julie?):


Not in these pictures: The huge pleco.

Last edited by genewitch; 08-16-2011 at 12:57 PM. Reason: oops, type of fish
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post #24 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
How long to wait for ammonia?

How long do i have to wait to see if it's cycled properly because of the filter media? i'd like to get my corydoras into it.
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post #25 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 02:28 PM
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How long do i have to wait to see if it's cycled properly because of the filter media? i'd like to get my corydoras into it.
To make sure we are on the same page: this is new (or cleaned) substrate, new/cleaned filter media. And obviously fresh water. Was the wood kept wet and not rinsed? And there is a plant, and some floating stem plants?

Where are the corys now? In a functioning aquarium, or a temporary pail?

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #26 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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To make sure we are on the same page: this is new (or cleaned) substrate, new/cleaned filter media. And obviously fresh water. Was the wood kept wet and not rinsed? And there is a plant, and some floating stem plants?

Where are the corys now? In a functioning aquarium, or a temporary pail?
New substrate, Partially cleaned filter media (it was completely clogged, now has high flow) logs were kept wet. I ahve all the original substrate in a bucket with water outside. I was going to do pantyhose thing, but i squeezed a ton of brown gunk into the tank from the filter before i cleaned the sponge in it.


Ammonia and nitrites read zero after 1 night of all the fish in it (3 tetra, 2 corydora, large pleco, angelfish)
Water is nearly all fresh, about 5-10G of old strained water. I added 4ml of prime when i ran the water into it, too.

My corys are in two tanks, i have 6. the albinos are in a planted 10g with sand and julies are in a 30G with gravel. i want to move the julies asap.
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post #27 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 02:57 PM
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New substrate, Partially cleaned filter media (it was completely clogged, now has high flow) logs were kept wet. I ahve all the original substrate in a bucket with water outside. I was going to do pantyhose thing, but i squeezed a ton of brown gunk into the tank from the filter before i cleaned the sponge in it.


Ammonia and nitrites read zero after 1 night of all the fish in it (3 tetra, 2 corydora, large pleco, angelfish)
Water is nearly all fresh, about 5-10G of old strained water. I added 4ml of prime when i ran the water into it, too.

My corys are in two tanks, i have 6. the albinos are in a planted 10g with sand and julies are in a 30G with gravel. i want to move the julies asap.
I would move the julii corys. From what you've described, the bacteria should be fine. They will have multiplied some already. And Prime is effective for 24-48 hours. If, and I say if, the ammonia (or nitrite) should rise to .25 I would do a 50% water change with Prime. Otherwise, leave it.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #28 of 41 Old 08-16-2011, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
More pictures

Full rez (click) no flash! Corys were drip acclimated in a bucket, i'll be moving more plants in soon!





You can almost see the pleco. His eyes are under that lip on the right of the center log. He's pretty ugly, imo, kind of a yellowish brown color. What do they eat? Shrimp pellets and algae wafers? I have garlic algae and blood worms and brine shrimp too.
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post #29 of 41 Old 08-17-2011, 01:38 AM
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I would move the julii corys. From what you've described, the bacteria should be fine. They will have multiplied some already. And Prime is effective for 24-48 hours. If, and I say if, the ammonia (or nitrite) should rise to .25 I would do a 50% water change with Prime. Otherwise, leave it.

Byron.
+one for what Byron said.
I would consider trying to source some malaysian trumpet snails if you are able.They provide an invaluable service with sand substrates in my view by constantly sifting through the sand while searching for food which in turn, prevent's dead area's in substrate where hydrogen sulfide could possibly accumulate depending on depth of sand.

Not everyone enjoy's snails,and in their absence,,I would sift the sand with finger's or plastic fork,or other tool after weekly water change and vaccuming up that waste which appear's on the surface.
Sifting the sand BEFORE vaccuming is not in my view the way forward, for much of what we wish to vaccum up will get buried in the sand. always better to sift the sand AFTER vaccuming up the waste from fishes and or foods.
I like the tank very much and the Angelfish is indeed, a large one.
Just be careful rinsing /cleaning filter material which should never be subjected to tapwater containing chlorine or chloramines.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #30 of 41 Old 08-17-2011, 02:04 AM Thread Starter
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+one for what Byron said.
I would consider trying to source some malaysian trumpet snails if you are able.They provide an invaluable service with sand substrates in my view by constantly sifting through the sand while searching for food which in turn, prevent's dead area's in substrate where hydrogen sulfide could possibly accumulate depending on depth of sand.
I put about 50-60 pounds of cleaned sand in the bottom. Fifty was just at the rim of the bottom, to get an additional 3/4" required another half bucket.

It's not really deep, i can't bury a potted plant completely.
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