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How do you change your water

This is a discussion on How do you change your water within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by rsn48 Byron, yes I am concerned about the amount of chlorine in our water and it is very noticeable by smell ...

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How do you change your water
Old 01-16-2010, 03:27 PM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by rsn48 View Post
Byron, yes I am concerned about the amount of chlorine in our water and it is very noticeable by smell in the late fall during our heavy monsoon season. However the new filtration plant is suppose to kick in or has already kicked in and I'm hoping that reduces the necessity for heavy dosing of chlorine.
Being close to the reservoirs, you would probably have even more chlorine than I do 45km away. But even so, they have sub-stations that add more to the system, since chlorine dissipates from water as it runs and they do this to keep the strength up. I can often smell it when I run the tap during the weekly pwc. But a good conditioner handles this. Only once have I forgotten, and lost a few fish within minutes. I always check over the tank after a pwc, and that one time when I glanced into the 70g I saw most of the fish gasping at the surface; instinctively I knew I'd forgotten the NovAqua, so I squirted it in and used my hand to mix it a bit. Within minutes the fish moved down in the tank, red gills and all. Luckily I only lost a couple. But it shows how much chlorine is in the water (I was in the West End at that time) and how quickly the conditioner works.

B.
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Old 01-16-2010, 10:43 PM   #22
 
Byron, I don't think it is on line, but note the PH adjustment and the continued (but I hope reduced) chlorine:

With a daily capacity of 1.8 billion litres, the new Seymour-Capilano water filtration plant seems destined to be something of a landmark facility when it finally comes on-stream towards the end of 2008.
Not only will it be Canada's largest – and one of the biggest of its kind in North America – but it will also host the world's largest ultraviolet disinfection facility, as well as showcasing a series of innovative features to maximise its energy efficiency. Extensive use is also being made of sustainable and environmental technologies in its design and construction.
The facility – which is being built on an eight hectare site in the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve – will treat water drawn from both Seymour and Capilano reservoirs
The plant design itself is largely conventional. Water from the two reservoirs will enter a rapid-mix head works, where coagulant will be added. From here it enters flocculation basins and is subjected to a slow mix process. The subsequent direct filtration phase will use a 2m deep filter dual-media bed consisting of anthracite and sand and from here the filtered water will enter the UV disinfection unit.
Flowing into treated water storage clear-wells, the pH will then be adjusted before the water enters the Capilano and Seymour distribution networks. UV disinfection was selected for the plant – using mercury vapour lamps installed inside quartz protective sleeves – principally because of its proven effectiveness against both giardia and cryptosporidium. However, although the new plant will use UV as its primary disinfection regime, secondary chlorination will remain a feature, to guarantee the safety of the potable water travelling through the municipal distribution systems.

Last edited by rsn48; 01-16-2010 at 10:48 PM..
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:41 AM   #23
 
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Then the old tank water goes towards my plants, they love the extra liquid bio fish ferts
Thats a great idea
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:21 PM   #24
 
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This is not an issue, especially with our water (rsn48 and I are both in Metro Vancouver and the only thing in our water is chlorine though lots of it). But even elsewhere I don't think I would worry about this. Changing 50% of a large tank like my 115g would be so onerous with buckets to pre-treat the water that I am sure I would cut back on pwc's and that would not be good. I did once do this for a few weeks [trying to detect the problem when fish were dying and nothing could be found, so every extreme was tried], used a clean 30-gallon garbage tub to pre-treat the water, filled the tub (sitting up on a table for height) with the Python, then manually siphoned it into the tank when pH and temp were exact--what a business. Fortunately it wasn't the culprit so I'm not doing this any longer.

I run the water directly into the tank and squirt the conditioner in when it starts. One squirt, don't bother to measure, usually a second squirt half way through as insurance. In 15 years I have never had a problem, some of the fish will even swim into the current from the Python (instinct tells them food may be in a current) and I can't imagine that the de-clorinator has worked so fast as to treat the water quite that fast, and chlorine would burn their gills so they wouldn't be doing this if it was causing them stress. The one squirt of NovAqua may be sufficient for the entire tank for all I know. Buying a conditioner by the large 2-litre jug saves a lot of money long-term, and I just fill one of the normal-size containers with the squirt top from the jug.

Byron.
So the chlorine doesn't kill the fish or plants or bb on contact? This is great because one main hindering factor in my wanting to start a larger tank is the thought of water changes with 5 five gallon buckets and bottles! So I just want to make sure I'm hearing this right:

you take out the water (50%). then you start filling straight from your highly chlorinated tap. as you begin, you add a squirt (I'm guessing about 10-20mL). then midway through the filling you add another squirt. and you check your temperature midway through to make sure it's still the temp you want (minor fluctuations during the filling, you mentioned, are okay?). and adding too much conditioner doesn't hurt anything, right?
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:30 PM   #25
 
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So the chlorine doesn't kill the fish or plants or bb on contact? This is great because one main hindering factor in my wanting to start a larger tank is the thought of water changes with 5 five gallon buckets and bottles! So I just want to make sure I'm hearing this right:

you take out the water (50%). then you start filling straight from your highly chlorinated tap. as you begin, you add a squirt (I'm guessing about 10-20mL). then midway through the filling you add another squirt. and you check your temperature midway through to make sure it's still the temp you want (minor fluctuations during the filling, you mentioned, are okay?). and adding too much conditioner doesn't hurt anything, right?
Within reason, correct. I don't overdose conditioner excessively--first it wastes money, second it is a foreign substance entering the tank and while essential for its intended purpose of detoxifying chlorine and metals, there is no point in over use for no purpose. And notwithstanding most manufacturers say it cannot be overdosed, I'd rather not test their claim.

The "on contact" is an uncertainty for me. Clearly chlorine burns fish gills. But in a 90g tank that is half empty, the fish are easily able to escape the chlorine-heavy water and they have the instinct to swim away from danger. Also, the conditioners clearly work within seconds, as my experiences have shown. It takes about 30 seconds after starting the refill for me to use the conditioner, sometimes even a minute or two; I've never noticed any problems. The "squirt" is my holding the smaller bottle (with the squirtable top) upside-down and giving it one moderate squirt.

As for temp, I usually aim to cool the tank by 1-2 degrees for the SA fish. This stimulates the fish, it replicates a tropical rainstorm. If you do this on a day when there is a low pressure system outside, you will probably have spawning that evening, if the fish are in condition. A major water change with cooler water is often used to spawn difficult species like Corydoras and many characins.

In my SE Asian tank, I aim for equal or slightly warmer temperature, because I have two species of highly sensitive Chocolate Gourami (which regularly spawn, they are young fish and first 12+ spawnings are normally unsuccessful but I have a baby now in fact among the floating plants) plus my pygmy sparkling gouramis, and these fish do not appreciate being chilled. Chocolates are highly prone to skin parasitic infestations brought on by chilling.

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Old 01-17-2010, 11:25 PM   #26
 
Well today, the last day of the "Boxing Week Sale" at King Ed I bought a 50 foot siphon hose for the tank. Other than plants and fish, about the only thing I haven't bought yet is the plants and fish.
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