How do i lower my ph? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 24 Old 09-03-2009, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Phatfish View Post
When ammonia is converted to nitrite and the finally nitrate, the pH lowers naturally. If you're familiar with marine aquariums that happens pretty often when something in the tank dies. The body decomposes and there's a sudden ammonia spike. The pH then lowers.

If you want to do it naturally, throw a raw shrimp in your tank since there's no fish in it and let it decompose.

If you want to add something that's not very chemically, add a bit of vinegar. I don't remember the exact dosage but just google it.
Though that is true, it also depends a lot on the buffering capacity of the water. Water with low buffering abilities may show a significant change, while water with high buffering abilities may not even budge.

As for the OP I would go with the R/O filter. Judging from your location and that you mentioned a water softener, you naturally have hard water. If you deal with lime scale at all in your home, your water is still considered hard and has a high buffering capability. Changing the pH of it will be a pain using just the tap.

Another way to test this, is to get some pH down, don't use it on the tank as its not good stuff IMO. Test a gallon of water, count how many drops you need to drop the pH to what you want. Then monitor the pH of the water of the next couple days and see how quickly it goes back up.

.... I'm probably drunk.

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post #12 of 24 Old 09-03-2009, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by aunt kymmie View Post
This is exactly what I do. I drip acclimate until the ph matches perfectly. I purchased a dozen neons about two weeks ago. My LFS keeps a 6.6 ph, mine is 7.8. I did the drip and the fish are doing fine. Not sure long term effect as neons are sensitive but we'll see.
keep me posted on ur neons cause ima get about a dozen of those or so for some nice color in my tank
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post #13 of 24 Old 09-04-2009, 01:00 AM Thread Starter
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ok so i HAVE to drip my new fish, do i have to do that with plants as well?
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post #14 of 24 Old 09-04-2009, 09:27 AM
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I don't drip my plants but I do dip them in a wash to kill any critters on them before adding them to my tank. If you purchase plants that come from a tank with fish there's always a possibility of introducing something unwanted into your tank other than hitchhiker snails. I always QT my fish for four weeks before adding them to my display tank. I've learned the hard way that it's better safe than sorry.

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post #15 of 24 Old 09-04-2009, 11:05 AM
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Some good advice from previous posts, so won't repeat all that. In another thread Money, 1077 and I both responded on the issue of pH, and all that applies.

pH chemcicals are not good to use in tanks with fish, simply because the buffering capability of your water (and being hard it will be considerable) will keep countering it, resulting in terrible pH fluctuations which stress all fish and will kill some sensitive ones (you mentioned discus in the other thread). Driftwood will not significantly lower pH. Only reliable and safe ways are peat filtration and RO water mixed with tap water to get the correct balance. RO water on its own cannot support fish life as there is nothing in it (too pure).

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #16 of 24 Old 09-04-2009, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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aunt -> my lfs keeps all of there plants in their own tanks w/o fish. they did recommend to wash them since they more than likely will have hitcher snails or some type of snail eggs.

byron-> you mentioned peat filtration, was wondering if you could go into detail about that? does it discolor the water? do i have to change it out every so often? how much does it usually lower ph?
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post #17 of 24 Old 09-04-2009, 08:35 PM
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That's a good LFS that knows to keep plants in a tank without fish. I swear that's how my tank became infected with ich (long time ago). I really wouldn't worry about dipping the plants if that's the way they keep them. Make sure the plant tank isn't on a central filtration system as that would defeat the purpose of them keeping the plants solo. I don't worry about snails as I keep loaches but I also don't worry about it in my little 6g betta planted tanks. I just use a piece of spinach in a clip, the snails latch on and in the morning out the little buggers go. I put the snails in the loach tank for a treat for my "babies".

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post #18 of 24 Old 09-05-2009, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyMitch View Post
aunt -> my lfs keeps all of there plants in their own tanks w/o fish. they did recommend to wash them since they more than likely will have hitcher snails or some type of snail eggs.

byron-> you mentioned peat filtration, was wondering if you could go into detail about that? does it discolor the water? do i have to change it out every so often? how much does it usually lower ph?
Money, I've never had to resort to peat, as my tap water is very soft (0 dGH and 0 dKH) and slightly acidic, so i have the opposite problem of having to add a tiny bit of mineral which I do with a couple tablespoons of dolomite in the filter of the larger aquaria. But others here have used peat, I know FishinPole has, a PM to him with the question if he doesn't see this thread. It will lower the hardness and pH quite a bit, and yes, it loses the ability to because it is leeching tannins and acids into the water and eventually/quickly wears out. And I believe there is a slight tannic discolouration much as with some bogwood. All very natural for the fish of course, and the water is still clean and clear if tinted. But FP or others can elaborate. Depending upon the size/number of aquarium, a RO unit might be a good investment long-term.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #19 of 24 Old 09-05-2009, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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sounds like a kh/gh test kit is in order here, the r/o system is already installed in the house. been here since we bought it. hopefully with the gh/kh test you all can maybe give me some more advice, but in the mean time i need to google gh/kh.
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post #20 of 24 Old 09-05-2009, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MoneyMitch View Post
sounds like a kh/gh test kit is in order here, the r/o system is already installed in the house. been here since we bought it. hopefully with the gh/kh test you all can maybe give me some more advice, but in the mean time i need to google gh/kh.
Good idea, here's a link to get your started, some good info from a site that has more on this and other topics. Beginner FAQ: Water Chemistry

B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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