High water temperature... - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 22 Old 01-03-2013, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by FishyFishy89 View Post
What chose could you be making that makes you think your bacteria may suffer? What are you getting confused about?
I'm confused about fish choices.. lol I'm looking at the profiles and liking just about everything I see...

I'm fishless cycling my tank using lysofoss and am a bit worried that the high temp will affect the process and kill the bacteria...
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post #12 of 22 Old 01-03-2013, 11:50 PM
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Ah, I dont think the high temperature will bother it. Making the choice about what to house is very difficult. I went from sharks, to bettas, to goldies, to bettas, back to sharks, bettas and finally back to goldies.

Brace Yourself.....Winter Is Coming
75 gallon Angel Paradise Updates:http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...gallon-220330/
Fluval Spec V Steel crowntail betta, 3 zebra danios,
Fluval Spec V - unnamed dumbo plaket betta, 3 zebra danios
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post #13 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Fishy, eases my mind a bit.. It's 44*C outside at the moment and about 30*C inside, tank is still 29*C.. My poor air-con is struggling... lol

Fish choices.... I'll keep researching...
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post #14 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 02:45 AM
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Hi essjay

We had a long spell of hot weather here in the UK last summer (yes really ) and the temperature of my tank climbed above 30 degrees.

My tank is obviously out of direct sunlight. I kept the lights off during the hottest time of day, opened the lid, and had a fan blowing across the top of the tank. I also kept a couple of small bottles of water in the freezer. I would float one in the tank to bring the temperature down.
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post #15 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 03:17 AM Thread Starter
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Hi essjay

We had a long spell of hot weather here in the UK last summer (yes really ) and the temperature of my tank climbed above 30 degrees.

My tank is obviously out of direct sunlight. I kept the lights off during the hottest time of day, opened the lid, and had a fan blowing across the top of the tank. I also kept a couple of small bottles of water in the freezer. I would float one in the tank to bring the temperature down.
Thanks CelsB What sort of fish did you have at the time and did you lose any with such high temps? I thought floating a frozen bottle would do the trick in bringing the temp down, but was a bit worried that it would fluctuate too much..

My tank is also out of direct sunlight, lights have been off for the day, and lid is now open..
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post #16 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 08:22 AM
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Agh!! The more I look the more confused I get.. lol I'll probably change my mind 15 times before I finally make a decision... (I'm a girl, my perogative.. )

Although.... most of the fish I'm interested in seem to have a range not above 26-27*C.. My tank at the moment is 29*C... Any thoughts? Is my bacteria going to suffer?
I don't know about the bacteria but I would guess that it will be fine. Tank treatments for ich (not that I've dealt with this yet,mind you) have the tank pushed as high as 90F (32.2C) for as long as a week. I would imagine that would not be a recommendation if it were to kill off the bacteria.

29C is at or past the top of a lot of temp ranges for fish. Short term, not an issue. So I guess it depends on how often and for how long you expect to see temp spikes like this.

Jeff.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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post #17 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 09:02 AM
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Bacteria wise, it would actually be beneficial, at least short term. Higher temperatures promote MORE growth in them. Though i do not know how this applies to long term, only to increasing the speed of cycling.
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post #18 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 01:37 PM
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Some advice on choosing fish, as you've asked for.

First, the tank size, which you mentioned is 100 liters (about 26 gallons for those of us you understand imperial measure better). Is it a long or high tank? Tanks often come in different shapes with the same water volume, and this can make a difference as with longer tanks you are better suited to shoaling fish that may like to swim more than quiet sedate fish, whereas the higher tank can usually accommodate the sedate fish better. So, if for instance your tank is 30 inches long, it would be good for a few groups of shoaling fish like some of the smaller tetra, rasbora, etc. You mentioned barbs, and here you have some issues, as some of them are not that docile in small spaces, plus they are generally active fish that need swimming space. Our profiles give minimum tank sizes which you will note is often the length and that is because of the importance of area for many fish.

Second are water parameters, meaning the GH (general hardness) and pH which is connected to the GH and KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity). Knowing your GH and pH of the source water (presumably tap water) is important as it may be soft or hard and that will tell you which types of fish to be considering. It is much easier to select fish that are fine in your water, than it is to adjust water to suit delicate fish.

Third, consider the aquascape. Live plants are useful for many fish, but not all. Water flow plays into this; fish from ponds and lakes do not appreciate strong filter flows, whereas some fish need this if they occur in flowing rivers. All this is mentioned in the profiles too.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Last edited by Byron; 01-04-2013 at 02:28 PM.
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post #19 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 02:16 PM
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I agree Bryon. Most fish I see actually prefer length to height. So if the OPs tank is tall, it may severally limit how many fish she can have. I remember a 30 gal tall I had. It was really tall and narrow. I only kept a small school of tetras in there along with 3ish amanos.

Brace Yourself.....Winter Is Coming
75 gallon Angel Paradise Updates:http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...gallon-220330/
Fluval Spec V Steel crowntail betta, 3 zebra danios,
Fluval Spec V - unnamed dumbo plaket betta, 3 zebra danios
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post #20 of 22 Old 01-04-2013, 02:20 PM
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Agh!! The more I look the more confused I get.. lol I'll probably change my mind 15 times before I finally make a decision... (I'm a girl, my perogative.. )

Although.... most of the fish I'm interested in seem to have a range not above 26-27*C.. My tank at the moment is 29*C... Any thoughts? Is my bacteria going to suffer?
Those fish temperature are an ideal not absolute ranges where any temperature outside of that range will immediately result in a 100% bacteria or fish kill.

29C is 84F and I simply do not know of any fish fw or marine or saltwater coral for that matter that will not survive or even thrive at that temperature.

In fact, I have seen gold fish (a cold water fish) thrive for years in an outdoor pond in the New Mexico (a US state not the country) where the summer temperatures reached 110F. (43C) They also could be down in a cooler area also.

Additionally, I had two tanks a fw and a marine on a porch facing north surrounded by three house walls. Temperatures reached 100F in the summer. The fish in both tanks did just fine and nitrates/phosphates remained unmeasureable as well.

I did have a problem with corals when a heater stuck on and the temperature felt like it was way hot like over 100F or so.

Cold temperatures were another story or problem. Things did well down to 65F but tropicals did die below that point. (55F or so) So I added heaters the keep the temperatures up. Outside temps reached 10F or so.

My current gold fish tank 55g is also on an outside porch and one time there was actual ice forming on the surface. The fish did fine but I added a heater anyway.

So IMHO high temperatures are no problem for bacteria or fish but some tropical fish have problems at lower temperatures. And goldfish are good to very low temperatures.

And corals don't do well over 100F.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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