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High pH Levels

This is a discussion on High pH Levels within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Ok I tested the hardness. GH 120 KH 100 I haven't lost any more fish as of now, and they look pretty decent. However ...

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Old 09-19-2010, 07:28 PM   #11
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Ok I tested the hardness.

GH 120
KH 100

I haven't lost any more fish as of now, and they look pretty decent. However I know most of whatever is left can take a higher pH.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:50 PM   #12
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That's soft to medium hard, so quite good. Lowering the pH can be done by diluting the tap water with "pure" water such as RO [reverse osmosis] or rainwater (depending where you live, if it doesn't pick up chemicals it is fine). Peat in the filter will also work with this low a KH.
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:25 PM   #13
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pH is still at 7.6.
However I know most of whatever is left can take a higher pH.
Nonsense. All my tetra's (Neons included are thriving in my High PH waters.
So are my Loaches, and when I had Angels they did great too.

Problem sounds like lack of properly cycling the tank. Not PH.
I'd Leave the Ph be and tend to the cycle, Messing with the Ph is gonna just cause more headaches then good anyways,..

Last edited by Chicklet; 09-19-2010 at 08:30 PM..
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:02 PM   #14
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I have to agree with Chicklet. My pH is around the same as yours and the neons I have in my tanks are in perfect health. Your high ammonia level is the likely culprit here, not your pH. Daily water changes while the tank cycles are a good idea. You can certainly work on lowering the pH if you want to, but concentrate on getting the tank cycled and the ammonia down first.
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:51 PM   #15
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Thanks for all the replies and help. I've been learning tons over the past couple weeks. When I cycled my tank I did it fish less (fish food) and maybe didn't let it run long enough.

I'll keep up the water changes and checking the ammonia levels regularly for the next few weeks and see how it tuns out.

The reason I thought the pH levels were high is that when I did a little research on the net the fish that were dieing had a typical pH level of around 7.0 (per wiki anyways) I really wasn't sure how that would work out as being a beginner and a perfectionist, I kinda wanted it to be pretty close, along with learning a bit along the way. I wasn't sure what kind of leeway I had on that. Then when it hit 7.8 and a few died, I started to worry.

Anyways, thanks for all the help and I'll keep an eye on it and try to get that ammonia down. Pics coming soon!
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:18 PM   #16
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A few things have been on-going in your aquarium, and it is not possible to rule out pH as one of the problems, though it may have been an issue more of fluctuating than stable if un-preferred pH. Characins are sensitive fish and while "this" or "that" on its own may bother them but not harm them, "this" plus "that" might do both.

In my experience the info on wiki species is fairly reliable. We have fish profiles here, second tab from the left in the blue bar at the top, and for those I have written (all the characins and cyprinids plus many others) the info on "preferred" water parameters comes from the majority of reliable and knowledgeable ichthyologists. When there are variations also from respected authorities, I say so to avoid any misunderstanding. As can be seen in several of the characins profiles, some species will "manage" in harder water but show clear signs that it is not "preferred" and we cannot always assess what damage may be caused internally by subjecting this or that soft water species to hard water. It is a fact that some species such as the cardinal will develop calcium blockages of the kidneys in hard water, and they do not live as long as they can in soft water, even though outwardly they "appear" fine. Many other species are undoubtedly similar.

This again is not saying that pH was the issue here; the cycling problems were probably more of an issue. But you are correct to research the needs of any fish you intend to acquire, and ensure they will be "comfortable" with what you can provide them. That I applaud; unfortunately many unknowingly acquire this or that fish without doing their "homework" and that is not fair to the fish which is a living creature that has certain limitations that must be recongized if we are to be responsible aquarists.


Last edited by Byron; 09-20-2010 at 05:21 PM..
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:38 PM   #17
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Ph levels strongly effects how dangerous ammonia & nitrites become in your tank.

Basically it takes less ammonia to become more deadly the higher the Ph in your tank is.

You need to get the Ammonia under control, Get a proper cycle done.

To aid the fish during the ammonia and nitrite spikes you can add Aquarium salt to their tank, make it a tad easier for them to breath, And keep up the necessary water changes!,
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:31 PM   #18
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Yeah, I understand totally. There are so many variations and ways things could go wrong etc. ie ammonia being worse in high pH levels. I have been soaking up information like a sponge through anything on the net and talking to people at my local store.

I'm learning a TON so far and I'm using this freshwater tank as a stepping stone to a saltwater and maybe even a reef. Before I take that plunge into my wallet though, I thought this would be a good start :D

Back to the tank though. I tested it again tonight and the ammonia has dropped below the .25 which makes me feel a lot better. After testing I did another 30% change and cleaned the gravel a bit. I'll continue to test the ammonia and nitrite levels and hope it continues to cycle onward while I try to keep these guys alive. Overall though I don't see any signs of stress on the fish as of the last couple days. Going to cross my fingers.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:54 PM   #19
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Thought I'd share a quick pic of my setup so far.
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:32 AM   #20
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Very nice I'm sure the fishie are all gonna love it once things all settle down for them. :)

"Remember, Less feeding during the time the tank is cycling and I would leave the gravel vacuuming alone until the cycles complete.
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