High Nitrites-at a loss - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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post #21 of 45 Old 01-23-2014, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Remo300 View Post
I thought so too, but he's healthy, he's active, and I've always thought it was how much they can eat in a minute.

He is in no way shape or form getting fat either.

But I think we will cut back on the feeding and see what happens, depending on my readings tonight.
bottom line IME you're getting nitrates.

but that's just m y .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #22 of 45 Old 01-24-2014, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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So last night's readings.........
pH 8.0
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 5.0
Nitrate 40

We decided to put the little piggy on a diet plan of two pellets in the morning and two at night and see where that takes us.
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post #23 of 45 Old 01-24-2014, 11:21 AM
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nitrites at 5 instead of "off the charts" is a good sign
nitrates at 40 instead of 20, not a good sign. for everything i've come across this is about the limits of what you want, even for a planted tank

but you had mentioned earlier about a relatively new tank i think, ... so it could be a sign that things are moving along nicely in the nitrogen cycle.
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post #24 of 45 Old 01-24-2014, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Given the daily water changes, I'm not horribly worried about the Nitrates yet.
I think if I can get the waste machine under control it might balance out. :D
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post #25 of 45 Old 01-24-2014, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remo300 View Post
So last night's readings.........
pH 8.0
Ammonia .25
Nitrite 5.0
Nitrate 40

We decided to put the little piggy on a diet plan of two pellets in the morning and two at night and see where that takes us.
With the api test kit nitrites of 5ppm is the test maximum as I remember.

With your feeding schedule and those nitrItes I highly recommend you suspend all feedings until nitrItes drop down to 0. Usually in just a few days. I had to do that on tanks where I had fed the fish during the cycle. Otherwise nitrItes remained over 5ppm for weeks. Yet with no feeding they dropped down in a few days.

This is one reason I also do not add food for a week after adding the first fish. The few times I actually measured things revealed there was a nitrIte spike of 1ppm 2 days after adding the fish. But that dropped down the next day.

Once the nitrItes spike up then down more normal feedings do not result in follow-on spikes.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #26 of 45 Old 01-27-2014, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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So, yesterday's reading.
pH 8.0- (Yes good Midwestern hard water)
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-between 2-5ppm
Nitrate-40ppm

Seems like we are getting somewhere. I did cut the piggy's feeding down. He's NOT happy about it though. He's practically biting our fingers for the food when we feed him.
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post #27 of 45 Old 01-27-2014, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Remo300 View Post
So, yesterday's reading.
pH 8.0- (Yes good Midwestern hard water)
Ammonia-0
Nitrite-between 2-5ppm
Nitrate-40ppm

Seems like we are getting somewhere. I did cut the piggy's feeding down. He's NOT happy about it though. He's practically biting our fingers for the food when we feed him.

good to see.

Stop feedings and now nitrItes are droppin down. Just like in my experience.

FWIW my southern water, and new mexico water had the same pH also.

So I think the anacharis has more to do with the high pH.

Low carbon dioxide high pH.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/

Last edited by beaslbob; 01-27-2014 at 02:59 PM.
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post #28 of 45 Old 01-27-2014, 03:03 PM Thread Starter
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pH out of the tap, after sitting for a day is 8.2

I don't have the kH or gH handy, but I read the report from the water dept awhile ago and I know it's hard.

I expected it to be.

When I lived in South Carolina the water was softer with a lower pH, thus I didn't really worry about the cycle, my plants took care of it.
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post #29 of 45 Old 01-28-2014, 12:05 PM
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Sounds like your getting there, but slowly. Hard water with high ph makes excellent aquarium water. Very stable. I've been away for a few days and I'm glad to see that your fish is ok and your tank seems to be tryimg to stabilize.
Good luck.

"Be the change you want to see in the world."
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post #30 of 45 Old 01-30-2014, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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I've had two late nights at work, and I only tested Nitrite last night....

Down to 2.0ppm

I think I'm finally getting close to the end. Hoping tonight it's even less.
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