High Nitrite / Low Ammonia - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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High Nitrite / Low Ammonia

Hey, I'm two and half weeks into cycling my aquarium. I have 29 gallon tank with one live plant in the tank, and im cycling my tank with a goldfish. The last two times that I checked my parameters, the Ammonia was at 0.25ppm, Nitrite 2.0ppm, Nitrate 0 and ph 7.6. My Goldfish is healthy and swiming around in the tank . I ive been doing partial water changes and using Seachmen Prime water conditoner when i change out the water. Right now i noticed some algue growth on the side of the tank and on the hiding cave that i have in the tank. Should i be concerned about the algue growth? What can i do to lower the Nitrite leval? I've been thinking about adding another live plant to my tank, Does anybody have any recomendations?
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post #2 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 10:24 AM
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Hey, I'm two and half weeks into cycling my aquarium. I have 29 gallon tank with one live plant in the tank, and im cycling my tank with a goldfish. The last two times that I checked my parameters, the Ammonia was at 0.25ppm, Nitrite 2.0ppm, Nitrate 0 and ph 7.6. My Goldfish is healthy and swiming around in the tank . I ive been doing partial water changes and using Seachmen Prime water conditoner when i change out the water. Right now i noticed some algue growth on the side of the tank and on the hiding cave that i have in the tank. Should i be concerned about the algue growth? What can i do to lower the Nitrite leval? I've been thinking about adding another live plant to my tank, Does anybody have any recomendations?
Water change should be performed anytime ammonia or nitrites are above .25. Would not worry bout algae till after the tank has cycled but you can wipe it off the glass with clean paper towel folded into fourths and maybe reduce the time lights are on.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Water change should be performed anytime ammonia or nitrites are above .25. Would not worry bout algae till after the tank has cycled but you can wipe it off the glass with clean paper towel folded into fourths and maybe reduce the time lights are on.


Yeah, im going to do a 50% water change today The lite in the tank stays on for about 14 hours during the day. Would you reccomend adding another live plant to my tank if so, wht kind?
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 11:18 AM
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Yeah, im going to do a 50% water change today The lite in the tank stays on for about 14 hours during the day. Would you reccomend adding another live plant to my tank if so, wht kind?
I agree with 1077 on the cycling and algae.

But, you should reduce the light period; 14 hours is a lot, and with only one plant to use the nutrients (and goldfish are heavy on the bioload, = organics as nutrients) algae will really take over. I would cut the light down to 8-10 hours. Use a timer and have it "on" when you are normally there to enjoy viewing it.

Goldfish eat many plants, its part of their natural diet. Java Fern would likely survive, not much will eat that. If Lupin sees this, he can suggest other plants as he has considerable experience with goldfish.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #5 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with 1077 on the cycling and algae.

But, you should reduce the light period; 14 hours is a lot, and with only one plant to use the nutrients (and goldfish are heavy on the bioload, = organics as nutrients) algae will really take over. I would cut the light down to 8-10 hours. Use a timer and have it "on" when you are normally there to enjoy viewing it.

Goldfish eat many plants, its part of their natural diet. Java Fern would likely survive, not much will eat that. If Lupin sees this, he can suggest other plants as he has considerable experience with goldfish.

Byron.

Okay. thanks for the advice @byron and @1077. I don't have a timer for the light. I'll cut it on when someone home so can enjoy it. Rely don't know much about plants. Do i need to add anything to the water to help the plant stay healthy?
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-22-2011, 07:22 PM
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Okay. thanks for the advice @byron and @1077. I don't have a timer for the light. I'll cut it on when someone home so can enjoy it. Rely don't know much about plants. Do i need to add anything to the water to help the plant stay healthy?
First on the light/timer issue, a good investment would be a timer from the hardware store (Home Depot, etc), one meant for lamps and such. Only a couple dollars, but it is important. Plants are used to a "regular" day, and while I cannot say that they would be harmed by the light coming on and off whenever, it makes sense to give them a regular day/night. Also, the fish need this. In the tropical and sub-tropical regions where all our aquarium fish and plants occur, they have consistent day/night periods of 10 hours daylight, 10 hours total darkness, and the other 4 hours are dusk and dawn. This occurs every day, every year. The "daylight" period can be anytime. Just make sure there is a total darkness period, which means no room lights, for their "night." And always have some light in the room, be it daylight or lamps, when the tank lights come on, and when they go out. This is for the fish; sudden light on/off can startle them.

On the fertilizer, yes. A comprehensive (complete) liquid will suffice. I use and highly recommend Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. It takes very little, for your 29g only 1/2 teaspoon once or at most twice a week; so long-term it is not that expensive. Many stores carry the Seachem line of products, make sure you get the Flourish Comprehensive; they make several different products under the "Flourish" name.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #7 of 11 Old 02-23-2011, 05:31 AM
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The ones that will survive goldfish are the following:

Java ferns
Anubias
Amazon swords
Onion plants
Cryptocorynes
Vallisnerias
Egeria densa (if it can produce more than the fish can eat)
Hornworts (same as egeria)
Pistia stratiotes
Water hyacinth

Duckweeds and egeria are quite healthy for them. If you can produce these in a basin exposed to sunlight, you can feed your goldfish daily with those plant treats. LOL!

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-23-2011, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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First on the light/timer issue, a good investment would be a timer from the hardware store (Home Depot, etc), one meant for lamps and such. Only a couple dollars, but it is important. Plants are used to a "regular" day, and while I cannot say that they would be harmed by the light coming on and off whenever, it makes sense to give them a regular day/night. Also, the fish need this. In the tropical and sub-tropical regions where all our aquarium fish and plants occur, they have consistent day/night periods of 10 hours daylight, 10 hours total darkness, and the other 4 hours are dusk and dawn. This occurs every day, every year. The "daylight" period can be anytime. Just make sure there is a total darkness period, which means no room lights, for their "night." And always have some light in the room, be it daylight or lamps, when the tank lights come on, and when they go out. This is for the fish; sudden light on/off can startle them.

On the fertilizer, yes. A comprehensive (complete) liquid will suffice. I use and highly recommend Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement. It takes very little, for your 29g only 1/2 teaspoon once or at most twice a week; so long-term it is not that expensive. Many stores carry the Seachem line of products, make sure you get the Flourish Comprehensive; they make several different products under the "Flourish" name.

Byron.

Okay, I'm gonna have to give that a try. Thanks for the advice
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-23-2011, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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The ones that will survive goldfish are the following:

Java ferns
Anubias
Amazon swords
Onion plants
Cryptocorynes
Vallisnerias
Egeria densa (if it can produce more than the fish can eat)
Hornworts (same as egeria)
Pistia stratiotes
Water hyacinth

Duckweeds and egeria are quite healthy for them. If you can produce these in a basin exposed to sunlight, you can feed your goldfish daily with those plant treats. LOL!
Okay, I Think im going to add at least oe or two more live plants to my tank. What other types of fish and catfish can I add to my tank with the golfish ?
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post #10 of 11 Old 02-23-2011, 06:00 PM
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Okay, I Think im going to add at least oe or two more live plants to my tank. What other types of fish and catfish can I add to my tank with the golfish ?
Dojo loaches
BN plecos
Rubberlipped plecos
Apple snails

Since your tank is 29g, I'd cross out the dojo loaches.

Sent from my desktop or phone or whatever else I am holding on to

http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=48&dateline=125741997  2
I'm ready for the pressure.
The drama and the pleasure!
If there is one thing I want to see here, it's HUMOR.
I believe I can fly!
I believe I can touch the sky!
I think about it every night and day!
I stand in awe of my body.
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