High Ammonia in tap - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

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post #11 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
In that case you can do a planted tank to take care of the ammonia. Live plants actually prefer to consume ammonia to get nitrogen.

The idea of a refugium is still valid if you have fish that eat plants. Just like in marine tanks with macro algae.

But a refugium is just a protected area where the plants can grow and thrive free of the fish. So all you would need for instance is just a partition so the tank has a small plant area and a larger fish area. Not the expensive external refugiums/sump available commercially.


my .02
NO! WE've gone over this and over this, and I've even caught yoiu on this before. A partioned off Sump does not have enough area to grow enough of anything to help the system out! And even you've stated, it must be equalized!!! Case in Point, go ahead and partition off a 10g tank.......Now you dn' thave room for fish, and your planted macro algae is all your going to have!
The sump must be as big as you can get it, so the macros have enough ROOM TO GROW! And consume enough nutrients to make it worth while........
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post #12 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 10:44 AM
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NO! WE've gone over this and over this, and I've even caught yoiu on this before. A partioned off Sump does not have enough area to grow enough of anything to help the system out! And even you've stated, it must be equalized!!! Case in Point, go ahead and partition off a 10g tank.......Now you dn' thave room for fish, and your planted macro algae is all your going to have!
The sump must be as big as you can get it, so the macros have enough ROOM TO GROW! And consume enough nutrients to make it worth while........

Reef and I disagree on this.

Reef: this is a Fw tank.

To me 30% of a 10g tank is just as effective as 30% on a 250g tank.

So reef and I disagree on this.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #13 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by beaslbob View Post
Reef and I disagree on this.

Reef: this is a Fw tank.

To me 30% of a 10g tank is just as effective as 30% on a 250g tank.

So reef and I disagree on this.

my .02
Your killin me here man. If you wish me to discredit you all over again, I can do so. I've left you alone so far, don't make me jump in with both feet all over again man.
Your going to tell people to partition off 30% of a 10g TANK, are you reading what you are typing??? THERES NO ROOM FOR ANYTHING BUT ROCK AT THAT POINT. Last time I checked, you got a tank to put fish in it. Youi've also stated BALANCE, and we went round and round about how much is needed, and my tank was thrown into the mix.....As I recall, I got you on that one too. I'm tellin ya, I can blow this one outta the water man. Its not a matter of a disagreement, your facts don't add up, and when they do, you've got the guy from a 10g tank to a 4 gallon tank if not less, after he's put deco and substrate in. FW or SW, I understand the Algae and plant idea, they are basically the same in both tanks, but you've gotta have the room, meaning a good size sump to do REASONABLY what your refferring to.
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post #14 of 14 Old 01-03-2013, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by DjBootleg View Post
I'm having high reading of ammonia in my 20 G tank.. So I tested straight from my tap and its reading in the .50 ppm!!!.. I'm using API Master Kit.. I would do a water change but ill just be putting more ammonia in...

Any advice?
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This is easily solved, but it takes live plants and some thought at water changes.

Plants need nitrogen, and they prefer it as ammonium which is a form of ammonia. Plants can take up a fair bit of ammonia. Even simple floating plants work well, as being at the surface near the light and CO2 in the air they grow faster, so they use more ammonia/ammonium than lower plants.

Having ammonia in the tap water means an initial influx of high ammonia at each water change, but this can be handled too.

Use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia; some do, it will say on the label. This handles the initial influx and conditioners generally are effective for 24-36 hours. With live plants and the bacteria in the tank, they will have time to take this ammonium up.

You haven't mentioned your pH. Ammonia changes to ammonium in an acidic pH (below 7), and ammonium is basically harmless. This may help you too, if your tank pH is on the acidic side.

Feel free to ask questions on this.

Byron.
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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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