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Hi i have problem with ammonia...

This is a discussion on Hi i have problem with ammonia... within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by honzicek what about my baby guppys in breading thank they are ok? honestly, they will probably die. most fish die during ...

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Hi i have problem with ammonia...
Old 07-17-2010, 12:17 PM   #11
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by honzicek View Post
what about my baby guppys in breading thank they are ok?

honestly, they will probably die. most fish die during the cycling period. you can try the nutra cycle but i don't think that will help your situation. the only thing you can do is wait for amonia then nitrite to go to zero then and only then will you know that your tank has cycled. nitrite is also toxic to fish too. the whole cycle takes at least 30 days. i personally wouldn't even measure ammonia but measure for nitrite after 2 weeks and until it goes to 0. at that point you can do a small water change and replace the filter floss. then wait a week or so then add fish SLOWLY as in alittle at a time. always remember bad things are the only thing that happens fast in an aquarium! if you can understand this you are 1/2 way there to a successful tank!
below you will find a graph that explain what is happening in your tank note the date where nitrite is at zero. nitrate is not as dangerous to aquarium livestock and thats why we do water changes every month or so.

Last edited by reefsahoy; 07-17-2010 at 12:23 PM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:27 PM   #12
 
remember that everytime you add a fish this cycle start over especially when the tank is new. the older the tank the quicker this process the less stress on your live stock. when you clean your tank don't clean everything at once because you don't want to kill the bacteria that makes this process work.
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Old 07-17-2010, 12:57 PM   #13
 
if i do water changes my reading is same.why they don`t change least for little???
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:29 PM   #14
 
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You have asked me via PM to help, so I will do my best. Much of what will follow will repeat what previous posters have mentioned, so perhaps I can summarize it for you.

All new tanks need cycling, it takes 2-8 weeks, and is a part of nature so you can't avoid it, though there are ways to ease it and speed it up. Here's a link to an excellent "sticky" on cycling you should read just for background info:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...m-cycle-38617/
"Sticky" is what we call important general info on specific topics, they appear at the head of each section of the forum to which they relate.

Second, you have the wrong assortment of fish. What's done is done. Please do not buy any more fish until the tank is cycled, and the present fish that survive (you should expect several to die, it can't be avoided under the circumstances) are dealt with (keep or return), we can go into that later. I also agree with TexasTanker, let the baby guppies loose in the tank, the other fish will eat them, fine. Guppies that have spawned once will do so countless times. Right now you have more pressing issues.

If you can remove the goldfish (the black moors) you should. Do you have another tank? Can you give them to someone or the store? Getting rid of these would be a good move with everything else.

A daily partial water change of 50% of the tank (half the water) should be done, preferably every morning. Use Prime water conditioner each time. As you have the Cycle, I would use it until it is gone, and not buy more. It can do no harm. I have used it, though there are better products available now, but never mind.

That's it for the tank. Have you tested your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? It is important to know if any of these are naturally present in your source water, as there are ways of dealing with it if they are. Just test the water on its own, no conditioner or anything. Post the numbers/results.

And please do not post in various threads on the same issue. One post in the appropriate sections is sufficient, members will see it.

Byron.

Last edited by Byron; 07-17-2010 at 01:31 PM..
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:44 PM   #15
 
Hi my tap water readings:
PH:7.2
Ammonia:0.25ppm
Nitrate:0ppm
Nitrite:0ppm
total hardness:300-very hard
chlorine:0.25ppm
total alkalinity:150ppm
no i don`t have other tank.
why water don`t change reading if i do 50% wc???
i have some brown spots on my plastic plants-what is that? the good bacteria?
can i make some picture of tank an post here?
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:57 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefsahoy View Post
at that point you can do a small water change and replace the filter floss.
i agree with what you say besides this. replacing filter floss completely could bring on another mini cycle. this is where most beneficial bacteria is. (its also on the gravel, decor, tank walls ) doing a small water change at this point AND if need be swishing the floss around in the old tank water a bit AND then replacing it would be better off IMO. only replace the floss if it is literally falling apart.
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Old 07-17-2010, 01:58 PM   #17
 
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I would suggest you take a water sample to your LFS and get it tested. API tests can be finicky if not performed EXACTLY as the instructions say. Given that the readings are not changed I'd suspect this may be a contributing factor. Doing it incorrectly multiple times will yield the same results in spite of the water parameters.

You will need to perform water changes until the Ammonia decreases. I once had to do three 50% water changes in a row just to get it below .5 ppm then two more times to get it close to 0. Your current levels are toxic and the fish will succumb to it fairly quickly and become susceptible to other diseases like ich, which will only make life more difficult.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:00 PM   #18
 
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it may also be a good idea to test the source water that you are putting into the tank for amm, nitrite and nitrate.
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:01 PM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onefish2fish View Post
it may also be a good idea to test the source water that you are putting into the tank for amm, nitrite and nitrate.
that was done
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Old 07-17-2010, 02:02 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honzicek View Post
Hi my tap water readings:
PH:7.2
Ammonia:0.25ppm
Nitrate:0ppm
Nitrite:0ppm
total hardness:300-very hard
chlorine:0.25ppm
total alkalinity:150ppm
no i don`t have other tank.
why water don`t change reading if i do 50% wc???
i have some brown spots on my plastic plants-what is that? the good bacteria?
can i make some picture of tank an post here?
This tells us there is some ammonia in your tap water. That's fine, it means you must use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia with every water change. Prime does this, and there are others. They detoxify ammonia by changing it to harmless ammonium. The bacteria will use the ammonium same as ammonia. Plants (if present) will also assimilate ammonium (ammonia). And test kits read ammonium and ammonia together as "ammonia" so doing an ammonia test after a partial water change will show "ammonia" but it is probably actually ammonium if you used Prime or another ammonia detoxifying conditioner. So that is no problem. This explains why the test after a water change seem no different.

Prime also handles nitrite the same way. Daily partial water changes are needed if ammonia or nitrite are higher than .25, but this test should be the next day after a water change, as I explained above.

The "brown" is most likely diatoms, or brown algae. It is common in new tanks during the first 2-3 months. Wipe it off with your fingers before you do the water change, then siphon it out. It will do no harm anyway, it is just unsightly.

Yes you can add photos to posts. Under "Additional Options" below your new post box you will see a button "Manage Attachments". Click on that, and go to the photo on your computer and upload it.

Byron.
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