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post #1 of 8 Old 01-20-2011, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
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Help with understanding my badis badis

I have two badis badis right now in an 8 gallon biocube with 2 honey gourami (smallest of the non dwarf and supposed to be the most peaceful). I know that's small; but I'm cycling a 29 gallon to which I'd like to add them.

Both of the badis badis are fairly colorless, light pink with a little darker stripes. This doesn't match any pictures or descriptions I've read. Could they both be females?

They are not shy in this 8 gallon. They beat the honey gourami out of the food. They even go to the top for the food that floats. They also chase the honeys some. The honeys back away from them most of the time. This puzzles me.
The 29 gallon is cycling with 5 x-ray pristellas (albino) right now.

So my concerns are the following:
1. Should I add the badis badis to the 29 gallon; are these females, do I need to add more of them?
2. Are the two honey gouramis going to be ok in the 29? Do I need to add another one of these so they are not so shy?
3. Should I leave either the badis badis or the honey gourami in the 8 gallon?

All suggestions are appreciated.
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-27-2011, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsnprocess View Post
I have two badis badis right now in an 8 gallon biocube with 2 honey gourami (smallest of the non dwarf and supposed to be the most peaceful). I know that's small; but I'm cycling a 29 gallon to which I'd like to add them.

Both of the badis badis are fairly colorless, light pink with a little darker stripes. This doesn't match any pictures or descriptions I've read. Could they both be females?

They are not shy in this 8 gallon. They beat the honey gourami out of the food. They even go to the top for the food that floats. They also chase the honeys some. The honeys back away from them most of the time. This puzzles me.
The 29 gallon is cycling with 5 x-ray pristellas (albino) right now.

So my concerns are the following:
1. Should I add the badis badis to the 29 gallon; are these females, do I need to add more of them?
2. Are the two honey gouramis going to be ok in the 29? Do I need to add another one of these so they are not so shy?
3. Should I leave either the badis badis or the honey gourami in the 8 gallon?

All suggestions are appreciated.
Badis badis are also known as chameleon fish....their colors can change at will.

If you could provide pictures, it would be easier to sex the fish.

As for which fish should go where.... I would try moving them all to the 29. If need be, you can move the badis badis back to the 8 if there are any issues.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #3 of 8 Old 01-30-2011, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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What I had been told was a badis badis is really a Neolamprologus multifasciatus

I've been writing on this forum and a couple of others about the fish I bought in December, badis badis. When I got them home I did research on them. They didn't look like any of the pictures I found. I wrote asking people to help me understand their behavior, as mine behaved differently than what was described. Well guess what??? They are not badis badis; they are Neolamprologus multifasciatus or multies or many banded shell dwellers, which are the smallest cichlids.

Someone from another forum provided me with a link to identify these fish. I guess I can't trust the guys in the fish store, or at least this one fish store. I've learned that I can go and see, but have to do my own research.

I would have never put these guys in my community tank had I done my research. As soon as I added the neons from another tank, the multies (who I thought were badis badis) started being very aggressive to them. So I immediately put them back into the 8 gallon. I'm just glad they lived with the two additional moves.

After doing reading I think I'll make a change to the 8 gallon there are now back in.iI read that they prefer sand as a substrate and shells to which to dwell. They are in the 8 gallon with a hillstream loach and a bamboo shrimp.

1. Should I move the shrimp and the loach to my 29 gallon community tank when its mature enough or leave one of them in the biocube with the mulites.
2. Should I change the gravel to sand?

I've checked on the temperature and ph requirements for the loach and shrimp compared to the multies and I think as far as those two conditions they could all be ok there for now.
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-31-2011, 04:10 PM
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At first glance there is a similarity between the two fish species, so the incorrect naming is not surprising. Their behaviour should have clued the store as to the correct fish, though in bare store tanks many fish do not exhibit normal behaviours.

They should be in their own space. Sand substrate would be nice as they like to rearrange it, and shells are essential. Water parameters are quite specific, very hard and basic, pH between 8-9 and corresponding hardness would be ideal, though they should tolerate lower values provided the water remains hard and basic. I would not keep them with other species. Their small size makes them ideal cichlids for a small tank.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-01-2011, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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I've been using RO water and Brita filtered water for small water changes. I would really have to use a lot of buffers to get the PH and Hardness up. Would you suggest I look at aragonite sand? It's suppose to help buffer.

I'm gathering from other contributors that I'd could keep 4 or 5 in my 8 gallon biocube. I can't seem to find by reading of odd or even numbers matter. I know it's better to have more females; but I'm not expecting be able to order specific sexes.
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-01-2011, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by rsnprocess View Post
I've been using RO water and Brita filtered water for small water changes. I would really have to use a lot of buffers to get the PH and Hardness up. Would you suggest I look at aragonite sand? It's suppose to help buffer.

I'm gathering from other contributors that I'd could keep 4 or 5 in my 8 gallon biocube. I can't seem to find by reading of odd or even numbers matter. I know it's better to have more females; but I'm not expecting be able to order specific sexes.
I've no hands-on experience with this species, and from what I've read a small group in a 10g is OK but the male does get quite territorial when spawning. Perhaps some members with direct experience can enlighten us.

On your water, do you have soft water out of the tap? The easiest and safest way to harden water is with calcareous rock or stone. I used dolomite gravel years ago for my rift lake and livebearer tanks (tap weater here is near-zero hardness) and maintained the pH at high 7's to low 8's with corresponding hardness. Marble chips and coral also work though dolomite adds the calcium and magnesium which is preferable. I have seen dolomite online. It lasts years. I would never use chemical preparations, but there is one product meant for rift lake cichlids, it's called a salt but should not be confused with normal salt; this product will result in water comparable to the rift lakes. However, continued use will be expensive; dolomite lasts for years. A marine sand substrate would be similar, but I've no experience so will leave this for others who have.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-01-2011, 11:03 AM Thread Starter
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soft water

Yes my PH of my tap water is still under 7.0, about 6.8 as best I can tell; I have trouble with the colors on the API charts sometimes. I will look into the dolomite. Thanks.
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post #8 of 8 Old 03-20-2011, 06:20 PM Thread Starter
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Opinions needed on use of sulfathiozole by Seachem

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