Help with tank cycling
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Help with tank cycling

This is a discussion on Help with tank cycling within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Hello recently I got a 45 gallon tank as an upgrade from my lowly 1.5 gallon I had three glofish tetra in. I was ...

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Help with tank cycling
Old 07-29-2013, 05:43 PM   #1
 
Help with tank cycling

Hello recently I got a 45 gallon tank as an upgrade from my lowly 1.5 gallon I had three glofish tetra in. I was wondering if to cycle the tank I should complete my school of tetra or should I just use the 3 to cycle it? Also will the 3 glofish tetra school with the black skirt tetra as they were created from them?
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Old 07-30-2013, 12:37 AM   #2
 
I wouldn't add any more fish until your tank is cycled. Fish in cycles can take some time and you may lose fish if you add too many at one time. You can complete your shoal of them then. Do you have a test kit to test your water?

I have black skirts but I don't know anything about goldfish tetras. My mollies shoal together but my black skirts don't shoal with my serpae tetras at all. Actually my black skirts don't shoal much at all, but it could be we don't have enough of them for that.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:18 AM   #3
 
Yes I have the master test kit that seems to be highly recommended, how many water changes should I do weekly? Idc if it makes the cycle take longer I prefer that over losing fisb
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:12 PM   #4
 
During our first tank we didn't understand the cycling process. Now I know water changes are a must during the process. I recommend testing your water every day or at least a few times weekly during the cycle. Now water changes during the cycle I would do many small water changes rather than big water changes. 10 to 15% water changes every other day should keep your ammonia in check. Keep in mind you will have high ammonia and nitrite spikes during this process. after all your ammonia reach 0 ppm you will have a nitrate reading. Nitrates are less harmful than ammonia and nitrites but must be kept relatively low. If you have high ammonia spikes, YOU WILL, 50% water change daily may be required. Just keep monitoring your water and remember to do your water changes. I'm no expert this was how I did it. Hope this helps good luck
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:19 PM   #5
 
Thank you very much I also don't know if I should try lowering my ph or if it will fluctuate during this process


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Old 07-30-2013, 07:07 PM   #6
 
I've read that you should change the water to keep the ammonia below 2 ppm, and the nitrite below say 2 ppm, and once both go to zero and stay that way for awhile you can just do regular weekly water changes.
It seems to me that you should just live with what ph etc. you have, at least until you are comfortable enough with keeping a tank to be able to deal with changing the water chemistry.
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Old 07-31-2013, 02:08 AM   #7
 
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What Ameliarose82 said is correct. Or you can take the short route, which many people will argue against, and that is to fill your tank with live plants, the more the better.

With enough live plants you can add fish within a day.In short, live plants absorbs the ammonia and uses the fish waste as nutrients and produces oxygen. Not gonna discuss the whole plant cycle in detail, but it worked for me.

I've started a 600 litre tank this way and its been running for 9 months now without any problems or loss of fish. At the end your tank will be cycled, but you wont have the normal spikes that kills your fish (thats if you do cycle with fish)

Comments on using live plants instead of normal cycling process would be interesting.
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Old 08-01-2013, 05:58 PM   #8
 
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The consensus around here seems to be that live plants are superior to the nitrogen cycle in eliminating ammonia. Plants work faster and do not cause spikes.

IF... that is if you have enough of the right kind of plants.

It takes more knowledge, skill and talent to maintain a planted tank than it does to merely create and run a nitrogen cycle
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Old 08-01-2013, 06:58 PM   #9
 
Quote:
I've read that you should change the water to keep the ammonia below 2 ppm
No, it was 1 ppm ammonia
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Old 08-02-2013, 05:18 AM   #10
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hallyx View Post
The consensus around here seems to be that live plants are superior to the nitrogen cycle in eliminating ammonia. Plants work faster and do not cause spikes.

IF... that is if you have enough of the right kind of plants.

It takes more knowledge, skill and talent to maintain a planted tank than it does to merely create and run a nitrogen cycle
I agree that for beginners to rather go through the normal cycling process otherwise you will never understand it.
Planted tanks takes more knowledge and money, but you cant argue that nothing really compares to a fully high tech planted tank with fish.
The reason I started mentioning planted tanks is most properbly because I have added another aquarium to my collection and started a fully planted tank. Just puts another perspective on an aquarium.
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