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Help! my fish aren't moving much?

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Help! my fish aren't moving much?
Old 06-02-2008, 06:38 PM   #11
 
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Do the change with just the water conditioner. Whether or not you really attack the gravel with the vac depends on how much you've been doing it lately. If you've recently vac'd the bottom, I wouldn't do it as every time you vac, you get rid of waste but you also get rid of beneficial bacteria. If it's been a while, go to town with the vac but I would only do about 1/3 of the bottom of your tank just to be safe.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:42 PM   #12
 
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Thanks you're a star, fingers crossed it works
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:23 PM   #13
 
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Unless the water you're adding to your tank also has ammonia in it, then doing a water change will absolutely lower your ammonia levels and be beneficial to your fish.

However, even the water change is just symptom alleviation, not a cure. There's still some reason why you're getting elevated ammonia levels that should be addressed.

Have you recently had a fish or any other critter die in the aquarium? Also, how much are you feeding the fish when you do your twice-a-day feedings? I feed my fish 2-3 times a day as well, but I feed really small amounts. Overfeeding can lead to elevated ammonia levels.
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:50 PM   #14
 
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Batman, his tank is still cycling, that's why he's getting ammonia.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:31 AM   #15
 
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In an earlier post in this thread, before he had the ammonia problem, he said he was showing 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and 10 nitrate. I assumed this was a cycled tank that had developed an ammonia problem.
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Old 06-03-2008, 03:52 AM   #16
 
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I too was under the impression that this was a cycled tank and am embarrased for not asking obvious first question.
Some of the products used to supposedly speed the cycling process do more harm than good by masking or giving false readings of true water conditions . This would appear to to be such an instance . As soon as poster ran out of product, possible uncomfortable ammonia readings begin to show themselves. This along with possible overfeeding or not, is in my humble opinion the reason for sudden inactivity of fish. :(
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:03 AM   #17
 
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The fish were moving around a little more this morning. I got some cycling and treated water. The effect on the fish was very quick, they're chasing eachother again, exploring all areas of tank and swimming in bubbles. :D It wasn't my intention to cycle tank with fish in it was horrible seeing them so miserable. hope it doesn't take 2 long for tank to be right for them. I'll keep a check on water levels. I've no idea now when to even think about getting next fish? How do you know when the tank is ready? Plus i think maybe I've been putting 2 much food in. thanks for help.

I'm talking about same problem under two questions headings so might start a new one so people can see what others are advising.

happy looking fish now

I did say on a previous post I rinsed the filter in taken tank water when I changed water when fish were in, I've been told that was a bad thing to do so I'm thinking maybe I got rid of the build up a good bacteria I had and that effected them?

This is much harder than I thought it would be, guess lots of beginners find that out quite quickly.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:55 AM   #18
 
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I would feed fish once every other day no more than you see them eat in two minutes. Your fish will not suffer. Fish will eat as much as you feed them and what is not eaten will foul the water. You do not say what dechlorinator you are using. Were it me, I would put nothing in the tank except good dechlorinator when doing water changes which should in my view be done any time ammonia readings become lethal. Even small spikes in ammonia are harmful to your pets. Product you are using claims to reduce ammonia not remove it. And it may or may not provide the bacteria needed. I am not a fan of chemicals can you tell? You will know your tank has cycled when ammonia and nitrite levels remain at zero for approx. 10 days without the use of chemicals other than dechlorinator and nitrate levels begin to climb .Water changes will be necessary to keep nitrates at or below 20 ppm 10 would be better. hope some of this helps. :)
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:35 AM   #19
 
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When I got the tank it came with filter, heater, light and cycle, water conditioner etc. so I just read the instructions and got started. The mistake I made was taking advice from the numerous shops I visited and not joining this site til after I got fish. I used Nutrafin water conditioner Aqua plus and Nutrafin cycle b4 adding fish. The shop tested my water and said the tank was ready for fish so I got the cherries. After getting fish I stopped using cycle and just used water conditioner when changing water. My Am. and nitrites were reading 0 (got my own liquid test kit) so i thought I'd get next fish on Thursday, then my fish stopped moving the morning after a water change and reading for nitrates had gone down and am. was a little up.

When I do water changes I guess I need to use the cycle for a while. Doesn't look like I've got any chose cos I've got fish in tank. But I don't know when to stop using it and let the tank sort itself out naturally?

I'm going to test water again tonight and from the way the fish are behaving im guessing the am. will be back down to 0
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Old 06-03-2008, 08:51 AM   #20
 
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I can only tell you what I would do. I would purchase product that removes ammonia, chlorine, and chloramine.My personal choice is product XTREME found at www.liveaquaria.com another I have used is PRIME found at same place. I have or am using both with my discus, german blue rams, and other dwarf cichlids. Any of the above products should work well. :)
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