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post #21 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 01:07 AM Thread Starter
Tommorow morning i will do a 50% water change, dechlorify it, and then well go from there. Hopefully the cloudiness is due to the tank finishing its cycle, and ill monitor the nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia after the change, to see if its declined.
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post #22 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
I did test the tap water i used and found 0 nitrite and 0 nitrate so im going to assume the spike in the levels was from the tank not finished cycling. I am doing the 50% water change now, but what do i do after?
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post #23 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
wowowowowowowoow ammonia level is my tank when tested is at an 8.0!!!!!!!!
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post #24 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
did a 50% water change, used the conditioner to kill the chlorine, and used an ammonia detox. My ammonia level went from an 8.0 to inbetween a 4.0-2,0 the colors are very similiar i cant really make it out. Im going to wait a while and then test it again to see if its still declining, if it doesnt work, Is there any way i can detox it down to normal?? Anything i can buy to help lower it? Or do i have to do another 50% water change and hope thats the end of it?? Tank also cleared up very nice

Last edited by mastermindc3pro; 11-30-2009 at 01:17 PM.
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post #25 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 06:59 PM
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You're using an ammonia detox so that's fine, it will handle the ammonia. It changes it to ammonium which is harmless, but it will still show with an ammonia test.

Nitrite will rise next, a daily pwc of 50% will ease that.

Byron.

P.S. Thanks very much for the compliment on my tanks. B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #26 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
Should i expect anything else to rise after that, and how long do you think it will be rising for? Also when do you think i will be able to stock more fish in to replace the ones i lost. I dont want to introduce any to soon, should i wait a week or 2?

Last edited by mastermindc3pro; 11-30-2009 at 07:55 PM.
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post #27 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 09:10 PM
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Its impossible to answer, how long you will get readings for ammonia or nitrites. As Byron said, continue with the water changes to help the remaining fish live through it.
Wait till the tank is able to hold a steady zero reading for both ammonia and nitrites, before adding any new fish. Only add 1 or two small fish at a time. Test daily after adding the new fish. Allow at least a week for the bacteria to build up, after the introduction of new fish, before adding any more. Careful not to overstock, or ammonia and nitrites will always be hard to control.
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post #28 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twistersmom View Post
Its impossible to answer, how long you will get readings for ammonia or nitrites. As Byron said, continue with the water changes to help the remaining fish live through it.
Wait till the tank is able to hold a steady zero reading for both ammonia and nitrites, before adding any new fish. Only add 1 or two small fish at a time. Test daily after adding the new fish. Allow at least a week for the bacteria to build up, after the introduction of new fish, before adding any more. Careful not to overstock, or ammonia and nitrites will always be hard to control.
I agree completely. Sound advice. Zero readings for both ammonia and nitrite for several consecutive days, probably in this case a week, then a fish or two, depending what they are, at intervals, being careful not to overstock. B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #29 of 50 Old 11-30-2009, 11:52 PM Thread Starter
Ok so another 50% water change, and another ammonia detox use, should lower it a lil more, should i keep doing 50% water changes or should i start doing 25% after the next 50
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post #30 of 50 Old 12-01-2009, 03:14 AM
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I should think that the volume of water changed will depend on levels of ammonia. If levels are still above 0.25 then 50 percent changes would be in order in my view.I am in agreement with others in that removing the old filter and replacing it may have resulted in loss of bacterial colony.Then the gravel vaccuming ,.(perhaps not done in a while), stirred up the fish droppings that OP mentioned and or other organic material from substrate. Without bacterial colony large enough, the waste, plus the ammonia from fish food, as well as that created by fish on daily basis,, plus addition of new fish, and ammonia and nitrite spike followed. I would also wonder how much food and how many times a day are or were,fish being fed. Does anyone else have access to the tank and or fish food?
I would reduce feedings to once every other day and only a tiny amount. I would not clean or replace the new filter for the next three weeks. It should not need cleaning if fish are not overfed. The droppings and stuff that OP vaccumed up during water changes should not have been enough to contribute to toxic levels of ammonia if a small area of the tank is vaccumed each week and a different area each time. Splitting the tank into thirds,and vaccuming a different one third each week, will help keep the bottom clean and not destroy too much bacteria(good kind) at one time.
I believe the tank is going through mini cycle and the time for the tank to once again develop the biological filter,will depend on feeding very little,,and the amount of bacteria lost. Wouldn't add any fish and certainly would add small fish when time comes,slowly ,one or two a week with a week in between new additions. I would changes the water weekly,25 percent while vaccuming the gravel as described a little area each week. Would only clean filter material in old aquarium water when it needed cleaning by gently swishing it around in the old aquarium water that I took out ,and then I'd stick it back in. When the material began to fall apart,I would replace one half of the old material at a time if I could. If I could not, I would maybe leave the old cartridge,sponge,pad ,etc,in the tank out of site if it bugged me,until the new material had been in the tank for a couple weeks. Hope this is indeed a mini cycle and conditions improve soon.
I would be hesitant to use anything (chemicals), in the tank except dechlorinator and or some used filter material from a friends tank if possible. Placing ammonia binding agents in the tank could starve the bacteria. A good dechlorinator such as AMQUEL+ or PRIME and water changes,daily if needed are all I would try. I would test the water at twelve hour intervals ,along with not overfeeding, to ensure that I could keep toxins as low as possible.
On a side note,, I would be hesitant to replace the Bala sharks with this tank, Unless the tank was 75 gal or larger. Hope some of this helps.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.
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