having trouble with 90 gallong tank - Page 3 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #21 of 32 Old 10-12-2009, 02:31 PM
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A suggestion, before acquiring any new fish (later), it might be good to thoroughly clean the tank. Replace the filter media completely; clean the gravel. Clean tank walls and any decor with a scrub brush and bleach diluted with water and thoroughly rinse. Just in case. I went through this back in 1997 when something toxic leeched out from one or two pieces of wood and the fish were slowly dying. Toxic substances permeate everything.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #22 of 32 Old 10-15-2009, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
A suggestion, before acquiring any new fish (later), it might be good to thoroughly clean the tank. Replace the filter media completely; clean the gravel. Clean tank walls and any decor with a scrub brush and bleach diluted with water and thoroughly rinse. Just in case. I went through this back in 1997 when something toxic leeched out from one or two pieces of wood and the fish were slowly dying. Toxic substances permeate everything.

Byron.

Thanks for the advice -- I've started to change the water and swapped over to just a species tank. I've been wiping down the tank during each water change.

fish has felt better, but it's still kind of early to tell -- it's all gourami now


-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
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post #23 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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good news -- all is successful. i'll be posting a new picture of the new tank within a few days, currently on my profile it has the new list of fish as well as tank status


-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
CamryDS is offline  
post #24 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 04:05 PM
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good news -- all is successful. i'll be posting a new picture of the new tank within a few days, currently on my profile it has the new list of fish as well as tank status
Good news. Following up on the problem, what is the tank pH now? And do you know the KH? Asking because I'd be interested to see if there is something we can spot here.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #25 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Byron View Post
Good news. Following up on the problem, what is the tank pH now? And do you know the KH? Asking because I'd be interested to see if there is something we can spot here.

Byron.
Unfortunately the tank is completely redone, the fish slowly died off. I found out that a lot of the suffering came from an over dose of novaqua -- it had a tendency to make fish create a heavier slime coat. I stopped the dosage of novaqua + , but it was a bit late -- I'm only using novaqua when I needed and still dosing the tank with amquel or amquel+ when I water change. I haven't finished using my supply yet, but I may turn to prime soon.

Ph is a bit too early to test since I have more plants and now some driftwood in the tank.


-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
CamryDS is offline  
post #26 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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some pics:






-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
CamryDS is offline  
post #27 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryDS View Post
Unfortunately the tank is completely redone, the fish slowly died off. I found out that a lot of the suffering came from an over dose of novaqua -- it had a tendency to make fish create a heavier slime coat. I stopped the dosage of novaqua + , but it was a bit late -- I'm only using novaqua when I needed and still dosing the tank with amquel or amquel+ when I water change. I haven't finished using my supply yet, but I may turn to prime soon.

Ph is a bit too early to test since I have more plants and now some driftwood in the tank.
I would test the pH daily for a week between water changes. Always test at approximately the same time each day; planted tanks go through a diurnal pH fluctuation as the pH lowers during the night and then rise during the day as the plants consume the CO2. This is normal, nothing to worry about, completely natural. It may be as much as 2 or 3 decimal points, e.g., 6.2 to 6.5 daily. By testing the same time every day, you will see any fluctuations (dropping) aside from the normal diurnal one. I prefer testing in the early moring, after the lights come on, as this gives me the (probable) lowest point and it should be much the same every day if the tank is balanced.

How did you source the problem to the NovAqua?

Nice photos in the subsequent post; how long have you had the plants? And are you using any fertilizers? I'm asking because I see yellowing leaves, and there are a couple of different reasons, and your answers will enable me to pinpoint it.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]

Last edited by Byron; 10-28-2009 at 06:57 PM.
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post #28 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
I would test the pH daily for a week between water changes. Always test at approximately the same time each day; planted tanks go through a diurnal pH fluctuation as the pH lowers during the night and then rise during the day as the plants consume the CO2. This is normal, nothing to worry about, completely natural. It may be as much as 2 or 3 decimal points, e.g., 6.2 to 6.5 daily. By testing the same time every day, you will see any fluctuations (dropping) aside from the normal diurnal one. I prefer testing in the early moring, after the lights come on, as this gives me the (probable) lowest point and it should be much the same every day if the tank is balanced.

How did you source the problem to the NovAqua?

Nice photos in the subsequent post; how long have you had the plants? And are you using any fertilizers? I'm asking because I see yellowing leaves, and there are a couple of different reasons, and your answers will enable me to pinpoint it.

Byron.
thanks for the plants, the yellowing plants are due to me moving them around a bunch of times while cleaning up before the plants were completey established. if you look closely though, the plants are sprouting more -- I've started using like a type of fertilizer that looks like a pin or a nail that you stab into the gravel.

they are getting established, also because the stuff that stuck on the glass began to stick towards the plants after and those leaves are dying off while new ones are coming up.

I sourced the novaqua due to me just stopping it, once i stopped it the fish stopped producing extra mucus like patches on the body. that was a relief.

I then tested by using it again during a waterchange and all the fish started to produce more white strands of mucus material.

ph hasn't been tested yet, but I will -- I don't have time in the morning due to the fact that I have to work at 5 AM in the morning.


-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
CamryDS is offline  
post #29 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamryDS View Post
thanks for the plants, the yellowing plants are due to me moving them around a bunch of times while cleaning up before the plants were completey established. if you look closely though, the plants are sprouting more -- I've started using like a type of fertilizer that looks like a pin or a nail that you stab into the gravel.

they are getting established, also because the stuff that stuck on the glass began to stick towards the plants after and those leaves are dying off while new ones are coming up.

I sourced the novaqua due to me just stopping it, once i stopped it the fish stopped producing extra mucus like patches on the body. that was a relief.

I then tested by using it again during a waterchange and all the fish started to produce more white strands of mucus material.

ph hasn't been tested yet, but I will -- I don't have time in the morning due to the fact that I have to work at 5 AM in the morning.
This is all pretty good. I suspected the plants were simply losing their original leaves (probably a combination of being new plus being moved about), and I can detect the new growth in the first photo now that you've mentioned it. And the fert sounds like Nutrafin's Plant-Gro sticks; good choice, they are remarkable. One of them in between the roots of two adjoining swords will give you phenominal growth within a few weeks or couple of months. I couldn't believe the difference in my swords.

Testing for the pH in the evening is fine, as long as it is the same time each day. I hope during daylight, as the colour of the water compared to the chart should be done in daylight (not direct sunlight); artifical light varies in colours depending upon the bulbs/tubes and distorts the colours.

Interesting about the NovAqua; I've used this for more than 15 years and never saw anything I could detect like you've mentioned. Perhaps a bad batch, or high overdosing... will bear that in mind, thanks.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
Byron is offline  
post #30 of 32 Old 10-28-2009, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron View Post
This is all pretty good. I suspected the plants were simply losing their original leaves (probably a combination of being new plus being moved about), and I can detect the new growth in the first photo now that you've mentioned it. And the fert sounds like Nutrafin's Plant-Gro sticks; good choice, they are remarkable. One of them in between the roots of two adjoining swords will give you phenominal growth within a few weeks or couple of months. I couldn't believe the difference in my swords.

Testing for the pH in the evening is fine, as long as it is the same time each day. I hope during daylight, as the colour of the water compared to the chart should be done in daylight (not direct sunlight); artifical light varies in colours depending upon the bulbs/tubes and distorts the colours.

Interesting about the NovAqua; I've used this for more than 15 years and never saw anything I could detect like you've mentioned. Perhaps a bad batch, or high overdosing... will bear that in mind, thanks.

Byron.
Yeah, I highly overdose -- I think I use up 1 bottle in under 6 water changes -- I think 1 cap full is good enough for 17 gallons worth of water, but i'm not sure --


-=+8 Gallon Planted+=-
Fauna:
1x Honey Gourami
2x Otocinclus Affinis
6x Flame Tetra
6x Ember Tetra
2x Apple Snail (Hitched on Rotala)

Flora:
Dwarf Sagittaria
Ludwigia Repens X L. Arcuata
Staurogyne Repen
Cryptocoryne lutea
Cryptocoryne Wendti
Cryptocoryne spiralis
Amazon Sword
Java Moss
Java Fern
Anubias minima
Water Primrose
Pogostemon Yatabeanus
Limnophila sp. 'mini'
CamryDS is offline  
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