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frustrated by water

3K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  willow 
#1 ·
My appologies if you already saw this, I posted on the wrong forum before.
It's now been 6 weeks and I'm pulling my hair out over this darn water cycle
I have a 36 gallon bow-front tank with a Marineland 150 Bio-Wheel,Jebao Bioforce 818 canister filter,and a hydro-sponge filter with plenty of air and water circulation

Water temp-79.3 degrees
Ph-7.4
Ammonia-4.0
Nitrite-5.0
Nitrate-5.0
Water is crystal clear and all fish are acting normal (no erratic behavior)
mollies-2
cory cats-2
tetras-3
zebras-2
All fish are tiny (1-2 inches)
Only feeding once every other day (bloodworms, next time flakes, next time shrimp pellets)
Can't seem to get this water chemestry to balance out. I do a 10 gallon water change every 2 days and treat the new water with conditioner and Bio-boost. Also, I'm getting water from faucet with Pur water filter to make extra sure there's no chlorine.
I'm at a loss. I've had multiple tanks years (and years) ago and never had any problem like this.
I tried to give as much info as I thought you would want, even stopped using aquarium salt so I could eventually get live plants
LFS told me that I was changing water too much,and I should try going a month withouit changing water to see if it stabilized (Huh??)
Dosen't sound right so I'm coming to the experts.
Please help save my water and whats left of my hair
Thanks
 
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#3 ·
"Normal" for a cycle is 4 to 8 weeks, so you haven't crossed that line yet.

You have a whole lot of filters on that tank, any particular reason why? The main purpose of filters is to remove floating particles in the water so it looks 'clear' but it has to be balanced with the fish, as many are forest fish and do not like strong currents.

Bacteria colonize everywhere in the tank, not just the filter(s) but in very new tanks you likely have more in the filter than elsewhere, but in old tanks the opposite is true.

A PUR water filter is just activated carbon (same stuff in fish tank cartridges), it does not remove chlorine (I don't think) but still, it's not necessary to use water from one.

You can't really do too many water changes when a tank is cycling. If Ammonia is there ... bacteria will form to eat it. Same goes for Nitrite.

Have you tested your tap water? Not all that uncommon to find Ammonia/Nitrite in tap water.

And what water conditioner do you use? Something like Prime detoxifies Ammonia and Nitrite which would explain why the fish are not showing stress.
 
#5 ·
Make sure that you use the dechlorinator every time before adding water to the tank and in the correct amount. Chlorine can kill the beneficial bacteria that removes the ammonia and Nitrite. Give it another couple of weeks.
 
#6 ·
Hey mate,
Ive been using the API test kits and had a nitrate spike at around 80ppm. It has since fallen with reduced feeding but i am still registering 20ppm on the testing at home. Did a little quality control and took a water sample to the LFS and results were nitrates at around 5ppm. Checked the bottles and have discovered that they are getting close to the use by date.

Maybe take a water sample to your LFS and ask them to test it. Cost me five bucks to get a comprehensive test of all parameters, but the peace of mind is priceless.

Hope it helps

Cheers
 
#8 ·
i say carry on with the water changes,don't clean the filters.
make sure there is no uneaten food left over too as this will add to your trouble.
and glad to see you in the aquarium section :-D
 
#9 ·
API test kit shows expire date 2017, so that should be good. The substate is gravel and I did another water change today. I'm going to take sample to LFS and see what it reads. I double checked and I'm conducting test right, but everyone says that my fish would be dead with those numbers,but they're acting fine with no signs af stress or problems. (SIGH!!)
 
#11 ·
I have read that not shaking the bottles on the test kit enough prior to use can give false readings.
I would try shaking the bajeezus out of them, like a minute or two per bottle, bang the bottom on the counter to loosen up solids, etc and try your tests again.
Also, try really rinsing your test tubes out between tests, and make sure that you aren't touching the ends of the tubes as this can contaminate your tests as well.
You could also try testing some distilled or bottled water for a baseline test.
 
#12 ·
Ok, here's the new drama in my aquatic endevors. Went to LFS and here's the comparisons. Keep in mind that my tests were with API liquid master test kit, theirs was with API test strip(which they just dipped in vial and checked color,aren't you supposed to wait a bit?)

LFS MINE

ammonia-0.60 4.0
nitrates-15 5.0
nitrite-35 5.0
ph-7.4 7.4
hardness-300 ----
alkalinity-80 ----

Needless to say a slight difference. So I got another API liquid master test kit and so far just checked ammonia. It read 2.0
I just happened to have a jungle quick dip test strip and checked it with that. 3.0
This is driving me crazy. Fish are fine but what do I believe? Once I get this water chemestry under control I can enjoy this hobby,but It's not fun when you keep worrying if the fish are ok because you can't get the water right.
 
#13 ·
A couple observations.

First, this BioBoost you are adding, may be increasing ammonia. If it breaks down organics as it claims, ammonia is a by-product. Plus you did find ammonia in the tap water.

Second, i would get some live plants now, fast growing and here floating plants are best. These use a lot of the ammonia as their nitrogen, and nitrite is not produced so a double benefit.

Like others, i would have to question some of the test numbers, especially given the discrepancies which i cannot explain.

Byron.
 
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#16 ·
Agree. There is a slight truth in this, but it does not justify the risk to the fish which to me is much more important. I'll explain.

Bacteria as Geo said live on surfaces in what we term biofilms. They are "sticky" in a sense and they adhere quite well. Once one establishes itself, it multiplies by binary division, which means dividing into two new bacterium. So changing the water has no effect on this.

However, ammonia is in the water, obviously, so changing the water will reduce the ammonia (and nitrite later in the cycle). And some do feel that this inhibits the "cycling" because less ammonia/nitrite means the bacteria will multiply slower, since they multiply in direct proportion to the "food" source, ammonia and nitrite. But, any ammonia or nitrite in the water--and i seriously mean any--is detrimental to fish. So it is more important to reduce the ammonia/nitrite as much as we can. The cycle may take longer to establish, but the fish will be healthier.

Water changes of half the tank volume every day if ammonia or nitrite is above zero is very wise. And to further help the fish, use a conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and nitrite. They will say on the label if they do. These are effective for 24-48 hours, depending, so the ammonia/nitrite remaining after the water change will be basically harmless.

Byron.
 
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#19 ·
added 7 live plants and did 50% water change yesterday. Checked today and ammonia was at .50. Nitrites were still way high, but things look better than before. Did another 40% water change today and finally got some Prime to add to it. We'll see tomorrow what's happening with levels
 
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