Fish Dying and coming to surface for air. - Page 2
Tropical Fish

Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources » Freshwater Fish and Aquariums » Beginner Freshwater Aquarium » Fish Dying and coming to surface for air.

Fish Dying and coming to surface for air.

This is a discussion on Fish Dying and coming to surface for air. within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by Deanna01 The ammonia is 0, nitrites are .25, nitrates 40 before water change. Those numbers do not fall into what I ...

Check out these freshwater fish profiles
Dojo Loach
Dojo Loach
Head & Tail Light Tetra
Head & Tail Light Tetra
Like Tree2Likes

Reply
LinkBack Thread Tools vBmenu Seperating Image Search this Thread vBmenu Seperating Image
Fish Dying and coming to surface for air.
Old 04-29-2013, 02:13 PM   #11
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna01 View Post
The ammonia is 0, nitrites are .25, nitrates 40 before water change.
Those numbers do not fall into what I would consider"fine" at all. You want nitrites at 0. The nitrates would be better at a lower level as well.
ZivaD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 04:29 PM   #12
 
Deanna01's Avatar
 
The guy who sold me the tank was kind enough to drive out and help me find out what was wrong, since I am new to this. The issue that was causing the fish to die is that my husband and I had reversed the hoses on the Eheim filter. This not only denied the fish oxygen but basically screwed up the entire cycle.

He stayed for several hours and helped me adjust everything. I am hoping that things will continue for the better, though I'm terribly sad to have lost the fish I did.
Deanna01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 06:40 PM   #13
JDM
 
JDM's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deanna01 View Post
The issue that was causing the fish to die is that my husband and I had reversed the hoses on the Eheim filter. This not only denied the fish oxygen but basically screwed up the entire cycle.
Reversing the hoses may reduce the surfce agitation, (sucking water in the spraybar and out the intake), and, as mentioned, this can be a factor with the overdose of stress coat but it certainly won't screw up the tank's cycle... unless the stress coat can do that... But I don't think so. As long as the surfaces substrate and filter stayed wet the nitrifying organisms will survive fine.

How long had the tank been running successfully with the fish in it when you bought it?

Are there any live plants? With no plants the agitation is far more important.

Jeff.
JDM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 06:57 PM   #14
 
Boredomb's Avatar
 
On my Ehiem classic canister if you reverse the hose right it won't circulate. This could cause a mini cycle depending on how long it ran like that due to lack of fresh water/oxygen to the bacteria.
Boredomb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 07:23 PM   #15
JDM
 
JDM's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boredomb View Post
On my Ehiem classic canister if you reverse the hose right it won't circulate. This could cause a mini cycle depending on how long it ran like that due to lack of fresh water/oxygen to the bacteria.
"If you reverse the hose right", that's sort of humorous that getting it wrong right might do something different than just getting it wrong. I don't mean anything by that comment other then it rang as an odd turn of phrase. What makes it do that?

The bacteria/archaea have been proven to be very hardy and will go dormant, they don't kill off that easily so a mini cycle will only be an off balance while they process an excess of ammonia. Ammonia over 1ppm can inhibit the nitrite oxidizers which leads to a nitrite spike as they don't get started until the ammonia drops.

Treating with prime and changing water daily after the large water change that Byron recommended will serve to detox the ammonia and nitrites.

Jeff.
JDM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 10:23 AM   #16
 
Deanna01's Avatar
 
I'm happy to report that I at least didn't lose any more fish overnight. I just completed another 25% water change (nitrites were creeping up again--I definitely let myself in for a mini-cycle by not having the filter hooked up properly), and I will see how my levels look in a bit.

I'm going to test my pre-softened water tonight, and I am researching whether I can change the softness level on my water softener.
Deanna01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #17
JDM
 
JDM's Avatar
 
Get some water from ahead of the softener before you tinker with it and test it so you know what you are starting with.

Jeff.
JDM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 10:42 AM   #18
 
Deanna01's Avatar
 
Right now, I only have the test strips for water hardness. With those, though, both the GH and KH are as high as the test goes, on the pre-softened water. :-/
Deanna01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 10:47 AM   #19
 
Boredomb's Avatar
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM View Post
"If you reverse the hose right", that's sort of humorous that getting it wrong right might do something different than just getting it wrong. I don't mean anything by that comment other then it rang as an odd turn of phrase. What makes it do that?

The bacteria/archaea have been proven to be very hardy and will go dormant, they don't kill off that easily so a mini cycle will only be an off balance while they process an excess of ammonia. Ammonia over 1ppm can inhibit the nitrite oxidizers which leads to a nitrite spike as they don't get started until the ammonia drops.

Treating with prime and changing water daily after the large water change that Byron recommended will serve to detox the ammonia and nitrites.

Jeff.

LoL I have no clue but it does make a weird noise. The very first time I hooked up my canister I did it wrong and the instruction were poorly wrote and mostly in German. I thought great how on earth do I hook this loud over priced piece of junk up?? Well once I figured out what I did and reverse the hose to the right places and primed it again it has ran great and silent every since.

Also you say the bacteria goes into a dormant state but how long can it stay that way?? I though it HAD to oxygenated water to survive and in a filter that does flow right it wouldn't be getting that I wouldn't think.
Boredomb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2013, 10:50 AM   #20
JDM
 
JDM's Avatar
 
OK... I would get the API liquid test kit when you can as it will let you test beyond the strips' capability then you can decide what to do.

I would suggest at least half and half softened and unsoftened water for the tank to reduce the sodium and increase the hardness. It's a start.

Actually, hardness is straight math in ppm so if your softened water is zero, mix it half and half with the unsoftened water and retest then just double the reading.. if it comes out to 150ppm then you know that your source is in the 300ppm range.

Jeff.
Byron likes this.
JDM is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Angelfish coming to surface for air. Stoke88 Cichlids 11 04-04-2013 02:53 PM
Thick Green "slime" on water surface... dying fish bigehugedome Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 25 09-02-2012 11:41 AM
Excessive air bubbles on surface rebelson Beginner Freshwater Aquarium 7 02-10-2010 02:00 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:41 PM.