fish aquarium ammonia why wont it go down??? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 40 Old 03-02-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by redchigh View Post
Prime indeed turns Ammonia into Ammonium which is relatively harmless.

Those readings are quite high... I agree that you should test your tap water.

I would go with 1 small pinch a day, and pick one day a week to not feed them.
Maybe someone in your house has been sneaking and feeding the fish?

Nope i hide the fish food after i feed them:) I admit at first i mightve been giving them too much food i did 2 pinch s each day, But these 2 weeks i ony did one pinch and that's it.

Right now i have some tap water in a glass sitting so will test that after it sits overnight, But wouldn't the jugs that i filled up from my sink be the same as testing it in a glass? Because the jugs tested for 0ppm.

Originally Posted by leogtr View Post
thats too weird why would your ammonia be that high after such a water change? do 50% change in the morning and at night its a small tank so it wont be difficult at all just keep doing that until you figure it out...

good luck!

Ya i just don't get it one bit usely a 50% water change shouldve took care of it but it didn't.. Will do a 50% in the morning and at night.

Originally Posted by Andarial View Post
Once a day should do, but just be slow with the feeding and only a little at a time, sometimes I don't even notice how much I put in. The ammonium shouldn't harm your fish.
With every water change even if its 2 times a day it wont hurt too add prime each time it wouldn't be too much?

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post #12 of 40 Old 03-02-2011, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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some good news the ammonia seems to be finally dropping after i did another 50% water change about 30min ago.

Th test resaults is between 2.0- 4.0 so at least its not 8.0.

So in the morning going to do another 50% and keep doing it 2 times a day 1 morning and 1 at night and hopefully i can get it down to 0ppm.

also seems like they a bit more active now:)
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post #13 of 40 Old 03-02-2011, 08:08 PM
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YAY for low ammonia

40 gallon with 13 hermit crabs- 11 PPs, 1 E, 1 Straw
25 Gallon
~2 Dwarf Puffer- Sidney and Cairo, 4 Amano Shrimp, 4 Blue Pearl Shrimp, 4 Yellow Cherry Shrimp, 2 Mandarin Cherry Shrimp, Too many RCS, 4 Crystal Red Shrimp, 4- Otos

5 gallon
~White/Teal/Red Betta- Phantom, Snails

25 Gallon
~Leopard Gecko- Desert Rose
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post #14 of 40 Old 03-03-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok the ammonia is still high but it is still dropping slowly.. so its start and the fish is still hanging on, But when i came home lastnight from work i went too look and see how they doing and i notice these small white dots on one of my neons... So i found out it was white dots ick, hes still doing fine so today i went too my local fish store and they said yep that's ick and they said its usely from new fish, So they gave me treatment which is para guard and he said that will help and give a dose every day till it clears up, I also asked why my reading ammonia and ph and nitrite is all over the place mainly ammonia and he said water changes will help and prime wont help but will help it so it wont be non toxic too the fish, So he said use nite-out 2 which will put bacteria in the tank and it should put everything too normal in about a week and give them it every other day.

Im going too still do the water changes every day but how should i dose all this stuff? Should i put all the stuff in every time i do a water change? Like prime than para guard for the white dots ick and than nite-out all at the same time? ON the bottle it says nite-out every other day but it also says put it in when you do a water change so i want too make sure what too do.

I really don't like putting all this in but it seems like this tank is going crazy and needs help really soon...

Also it seems like the fish is more active today they are swimming around the tank and not always siting on the bottom of the tank like they was doing.
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post #15 of 40 Old 03-04-2011, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know how i should dose the tank with thoes products? Like when i do a water change should i add all products in? I always do prime after i do a water change and i probably will have too use the white spot med too, but what about the nite out stuff? It says dose them every other day but it also says use it after each water change too..

I just dont want too make stuff worse than it is and harm them even more, but how the tank sits now i dont think it can get any worse:(

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post #16 of 40 Old 03-04-2011, 07:10 AM
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I agree with the recommendations to keep doing the water changes every day. As for feeding, don't feed more than your fish eat in 3 minutes so there is no leftover food in the tank. That way the only thing adding to ammonia is the waste. Cutting down on the amount and or frequency of feeding will decrease the amount of waste, but I don't think it's really such a good idea. Think about it this way - your fish's stomachs are about the size of their eyes. It's hard to see how a stomach-full of food is enough to keep them going for 24 hours. Just don't overfeed at any feeding, or remove any food remnants that are still in the tank after 3 minutes or so.

Some other factors you don't mention: is your tank filtered? If so, what do you do with your filter media while you are changing your water? Don't let it dry out or rinse it in chlorinated water - either one will kill your beneficial bacteria, and that is what you need to be building up to get your cycle regulated. You don't need to rinse it every day, just keep it wet. Once you are down to a more regular cycle of water changes, rinse the media in the tank water you have removed to remove the wastes that have accumulated in/on your sponge/floss/cartridge, whatever. If your tank is not filtered, you probably need to be doing 100% water changes at least once or twice a week with a tank that size and stocked as yours is.

Also, what is the temp of your water? Ammonia is more toxic at higher temps, but that doesn't mean you should not heat the water. Your fish are all tropical fish that require water in the mid to upper 70's. Neon tetras do best at 78-80. Not sure abut your other tetras, and since MANY different fish are called tetras, I wouldn't assume that they require the same things.

What is your pH? There is also a relationship between pH level and toxicity of ammonia. I don't remember the details at the moment, though.

Also, neon tetras and otocinclus (one kind of suckermouth catfish - not sure if it's what you had in the tank) do not do well in tanks without established cycles, and often die in the first few days or weeks if not housed in a fully-cycled tank.
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post #17 of 40 Old 04-04-2011, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry it took awhile too reply back,

Have bad new and good news.

The bad news i lost one of the neons few days after just was swing around weird and upside down so i put it in a small 1gal tank with a small filter and he died overnight:( Could've been the other fish fighting with him because he was pretty mess up..

And the ammonia is still on the high side.. one time it went down too 1.0 than it pretty much stays around 2.0 too 4.0 most of the time.. I just cant get it down for some reason..

Ph is on the high side too sense day one which is around 7.8 too sometimes low 8s..

Nitrite is 0 which is good.

K for the good news the 2 glow fish and 1 neon is doing really well and when i feed them which is very little bit each day in the morning they zoom right up too the top and take the food which before they wasn't active and stayed on the bottom and eat very little.

I been putting in prime pretty much each day with nite out but i quit using the nite out each day because it seem too put alot of brown stuff everywhere... So i do that once every other day.

And i mostly been doing water changes every day and it still didint drop the ammonia..

I just don't get why ammonia will not go down.

Maybe the problem is the filter? this is the one i use because its small and fits in the tank nice and doesint put strain on the fish But what i dont like is it doesn't have a sponge just the filter..

So for the pass month and a half i just been rinsing the filter with {the tank water i take out when i do water changes} instead of replacing it with new filter.

Should i replace the filter with a new one now or should i keep using the old one?

Oh and another good news is my 2nd tank 10gal has finish cycling and ammonia is 0 but i did loose one zebra but it seems like one of the others was biteing at the fins because he kept chasing him and making him go behind stuff and his tail was pretty much gone.... I was going too put in the 2glow fish and the neon from the small tank but i don't want the zebras too bug them and bite them..

Also the gravel is pretty dirty too if i move it around you see stuff fly up but i cant really clean it good because its hard too do anything with the tank.

Oh and the temp for both tanks is around 75 too 78f and sometimes will go up too 80 too 82 when it gets hot in the house but its mostly around 75-78.

But ya im pretty much out of ideas what too do with the small tank i don't really want too move the fish out of it because it might shock them, And they do seem too like the tank alot, I just wish i could get everything too normal in it.
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post #18 of 40 Old 04-04-2011, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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I just seen this on amazon and wonder if i should pick this filter up? cause it has the sponge and all that, But i will keep the one i have in it for a month of 2 with the new one because it has the good bacteria. And it has a flow adjuster.
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post #19 of 40 Old 04-04-2011, 12:35 PM
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The high ammonia is probably due to having too many fish in a 3 gallon tank. A 3 gallon is much too small for neon tetra, glowlight tetra, zebra danio, or whatever. Especially as you mention dirty gravel, also related.

Do not buy more fish until this is resolved.

Ich occurs when fish are stressed; the ammonia wilol certainly do that, as will overcrowding.

If you have a 10g, I wold put these fish in there. How many fish exactly do you have (species and number of each)?


Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #20 of 40 Old 04-04-2011, 01:06 PM
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"Also the gravel is pretty dirty too if i move it around you see stuff fly up but i cant really clean it good because its hard too do anything with the tank."

That statement also tells you the tank might be better used as a dip tank if you use meds. NOT for housing fish on a regular basis. If it is too hard to work with then I wouldn't have fish in it.
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