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First Aquarium, Suggestions/thoughts

This is a discussion on First Aquarium, Suggestions/thoughts within the Beginner Freshwater Aquarium forums, part of the Freshwater Fish and Aquariums category; --> Originally Posted by tanker I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them about the safety of the hood arrangement. As I said before, you'd expect ...

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First Aquarium, Suggestions/thoughts
Old 11-15-2010, 04:07 PM   #111
 
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Originally Posted by tanker View Post
I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them about the safety of the hood arrangement. As I said before, you'd expect them to have a safe arrangement in prefabricated tanks as they are sold to be used the way they are designed. They have an obligation to sell a safe product.

If your tank is anything like my prefab tank, I don't think so. My tank with the glass covers has a ledge around the top of the tank which supports the glass lid. My other tank with the plastic hood has no support for a glass top.

Another idea - how high is your water level? Maybe you could drop it a bit, if it's quite high.
Thanks tanker, i'll contact Fluval and see if they can offer some advice and as you say, there is no provision to slide the glass pane between the hood and the tank.
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:17 PM   #112
 
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Thanks Byron for the advice. Here are some pictures of the leaves. I have amazon swords which are shown in the pictures below:

Picasa Web Albums - Praveen - Plant Brown S...

Also there is one picture of the Java Moss which has some whitish stuff on it. I may not be explaining it better, but i hope you can see there is something on the java moss. Is that any kind of algae?

I would appreciate if you could take a look at the leaves and kindly advice me. I'm currently dosing Seachem Flourish once a week, the day after the water change, as you advised. Shall I increase the dosing to b-weekly?

Also, appreciate the advice on the canister filter.

Thanks very much
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:35 PM   #113
 
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Thanks Byron for the advice. Here are some pictures of the leaves. I have amazon swords which are shown in the pictures below:

Picasa Web Albums - Praveen - Plant Brown S...

Also there is one picture of the Java Moss which has some whitish stuff on it. I may not be explaining it better, but i hope you can see there is something on the java moss. Is that any kind of algae?

I would appreciate if you could take a look at the leaves and kindly advice me. I'm currently dosing Seachem Flourish once a week, the day after the water change, as you advised. Shall I increase the dosing to b-weekly?

Also, appreciate the advice on the canister filter.

Thanks very much
I'm going to have to ask for more details. Some of the swords appear fine, a couple do not, but it may be old leaves. The JM has a problem, I thought it was poor growth (the bit at the front particularly) but it may be algae, there looks to be some brush algae, but I may not be seeing it clearly.

Can you provide info on light (type, how much, length of light period daily); water parameters (hardness, pH and temp); tank size. I got the bit about Flourish Comprehensive once weekly. Are any other products going in the tank aside from this and water conditioner? And how often and how much water changes?
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Old 11-15-2010, 04:45 PM   #114
 
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I'm going to have to ask for more details. Some of the swords appear fine, a couple do not, but it may be old leaves. The JM has a problem, I thought it was poor growth (the bit at the front particularly) but it may be algae, there looks to be some brush algae, but I may not be seeing it clearly.

Can you provide info on light (type, how much, length of light period daily); water parameters (hardness, pH and temp); tank size. I got the bit about Flourish Comprehensive once weekly. Are any other products going in the tank aside from this and water conditioner? And how often and how much water changes?
Byron, you completely forgot about the tank you have been advising since the beginning :(. I'm just kidding, i know you advise so many beginners like me everyday :).

It's got dual lights - one Fluval PowerGlo (20 watt) and one Fluval Aqua Glo (20 watt) (Is this T5 lighting?)
Lights are on for 10 hours a day
Tank size: 125l (33 US gallons)
Seachem Prime as water conditioner
Water changes weekly and around 25%
pH: 7.6
Temp: 25 C
Hardness: According to water supply company, its medium hard water (havent measured it yet :( )

No other products going into the tank except for food.

Thanks
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:00 PM   #115
 
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You're absolutely correct, I don't remember and for the reason you mention.

I can suggest a couple of things. First, the light may be unbalanced with nutrients, i.e., too much light. A second Flourish Comprehensive dose weekly shuld help with this. But there is then the carbon (CO2). Each aquarium is different so this may be OK, but the light period may need to be reduced a bit, say to 9 hours. But I would do the twice weekly Flourish for a couple weeks first and assess the results before tampering with the light.

I can't say if the light is T5 or T8, but I would suspect the latter. It may say on the end of the tubes. Do you know the Kelvin rating for each? Going solely from the names (which can be very misleading) I would expect the appearance to be somewhat purplish, though this doesn't stand out in the photos. The issue with the JM I suspect is light and nutrients, I have seen similar in one of my tanks; moss does not do so well in harder water since it cannot use carbonates for carbon, so there may be a CO2 shortage that is not balanced with the light. Let me know about the K first.

Byron.
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Old 11-15-2010, 05:24 PM   #116
 
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You're absolutely correct, I don't remember and for the reason you mention.

I can suggest a couple of things. First, the light may be unbalanced with nutrients, i.e., too much light. A second Flourish Comprehensive dose weekly shuld help with this. But there is then the carbon (CO2). Each aquarium is different so this may be OK, but the light period may need to be reduced a bit, say to 9 hours. But I would do the twice weekly Flourish for a couple weeks first and assess the results before tampering with the light.

I can't say if the light is T5 or T8, but I would suspect the latter. It may say on the end of the tubes. Do you know the Kelvin rating for each? Going solely from the names (which can be very misleading) I would expect the appearance to be somewhat purplish, though this doesn't stand out in the photos. The issue with the JM I suspect is light and nutrients, I have seen similar in one of my tanks; moss does not do so well in harder water since it cannot use carbonates for carbon, so there may be a CO2 shortage that is not balanced with the light. Let me know about the K first.

Byron.
Thanks Byron. Will certainly try out the bi-weekly dose and see how it goes. Shall i continure pruning the dead/dying leaves on the swords as i can see more leaves growing from the crown.

I have just checked the lights and they are T8 lighting apparently. i do not see the purplish nature in the lights though, and to my eyes they appear as natural light although i do wear glasses :). One is power-glo 20W with 18000K and the other is Aqua-glo 20W with 18000K rating btw.

Also, could you please explain what the brown spots mean. I mean does it correspond directly to increased lighting?

Thanks

Last edited by neo83; 11-15-2010 at 05:35 PM..
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:00 PM   #117
 
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Thanks Byron. Will certainly try out the bi-weekly dose and see how it goes. Shall i continure pruning the dead/dying leaves on the swords as i can see more leaves growing from the crown.
Yes, that is OK.

Quote:
I have just checked the lights and they are T8 lighting apparently. i do not see the purplish nature in the lights though, and to my eyes they appear as natural light although i do wear glasses :). One is power-glo 20W with 18000K and the other is Aqua-glo 20W with 18000K rating btw.
Ah, there's a light issue here. Kelvin is the colour temperature of light; mid-day sun is somewhere around 6000K (going from memory). A lower K number means more red and less blue, and a higher K number means more blue and less red. Plants need red light as well as blue, so that is one problem. Too much blue will encourage algae which is not anywhere as demanding.

Measure the tubes end to end (not including the prongs) and look for daylight or full spectrum in those lengths in T8. GE, Phillips and Sylvania make these, calling them daylight or something similar; if they have a Kelvin rating it will be around 6500K. That is what you want, and you can get these at hardware stores for a fraction of the cost of "aquarium" makes, I have the Phillips on some tanks and the GE on another. The colour rendition of plants and fish will be different, much more natural than at present. You could put in one daylight and keep one of what you have if you like that appearance. Or two daylight, up to you. Over a 33g I think you would be OK with one of each. I only have a 25w full spectrum over my 33g and it is fine.

Quote:
Also, could you please explain what the brown spots mean. I mean does it correspond directly to increased lighting?
If you mean the brown ragged edges to some of the sword leaves, that is likely a nutrient issue. But if these are the older leaves, this is common when plants are moved to a new tank (from the store for instance). Swords (Echinodorus species) are heavy feeders; I have to dose Flourish twice weekly in my tanks or they quickly let me know they are not happy. Substrate fertilizer is very useful with these plants, a tab next to each plant's roots would benefit, but it is not essential. I have grown fabulous (in my view anyway) swords for years with only liquid fert.

Increasing nutrients and fixing the light should resolve this whole issue in my opinion.

Byron.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:00 PM   #118
 
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also, another point worth mentioning is that the area i live has high levels of nitrate in tap water of around 40ppm :(. Do you think i need to use some nitrate removing products like JBL bio nitratex?
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:10 PM   #119
 
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also, another point worth mentioning is that the area i live has high levels of nitrate in tap water of around 40ppm :(. Do you think i need to use some nitrate removing products like JBL bio nitratex?
Were it me, I would just use Prime water conditioner (as you said you do) since to my knowlege it is the only one that detoxifies nitrite and nitrate. That will handle the tap water on the water change day. live plants (you have lots) should handle things after that.

Is the reading of 40ppm yours or the water company's? I mention this because if you are using the API nitrate test kit, the bottle of regent #2 has to be shaken for 2 minutes minimum, not 30 seconds as indicated in the instructions, or you can often get a false and high reading.

I would check the tank nitrate prior to a water change, and then the day after, just to see any variance. Shouldn't be an issue, but it is best to make sure. Most fish will manage with 40ppm, though most of us suggest 20ppm as the maximum, and in planted tanks it is usually below 10ppm.

Byron.
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Old 11-15-2010, 06:32 PM   #120
 
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Thanks very much Byron.

The reading from the tap water according to the water board is 38ppm, although when i tested before, it was anywhere between 40-80ppm on API liquid kit. I'll test it again before the next water change. Yes, i remember the 2 minutes shake as advised by you in this thread before :).

I have come across fluval life-glo with 6700K rating. That is closer to 6500K. would you think that'll be suitable?
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