First Aquarium, Suggestions/thoughts - Page 11 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #101 of 127 Old 11-12-2010, 07:42 PM
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You can get different sized airstones. If you get a bigger airstone, the air from your pump should be more diffuse. The one I've got in my big tank is a long one that creates a little bubble "wall". You can get the long ones in different lengths, like this http://www.amazon.com/Elite-12in-Long-Air-Stone/dp/B0002AQHJQ. If you had a long airstone, the air would be coming out over the whole length of the airstone and not just in a little clump like it does if you've got the ordinary sort of airstone.

I'm not sure if this is the way to go, it's just a suggestion.
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post #102 of 127 Old 11-13-2010, 04:56 PM
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There should always be glass between the water surface and any light tube/bulb. The danger is that water splashing up onto a hot tube could cause it to explode. And fish do jump, and hitting the tube may have the same effect but in any case the fish would probably die. The housing of the fixture itself may have protective this or that, depending. Most fixtures I have seen say a glass cover must be under the light. If the fixture is suspended high enough above the water, this becomes perhaps unnecessary. But there is still the issue of water evaporation. A lot of water evaporates from a tropical-temperature aquarium, and this water condenses on the glass cover and thus remains within the tank, or without a cover it dissipates into the room and into the walls and ceiling much like vapor in a bathroom without ventilation. Plus dust and stuff can get into the tank, and this is best kept out. Unless you have a tank that requires an open top due to the type, as with plants that extend above the surface or terrestrial plants that have roots in the tank, etc., I would cover the tank. You can get plain glass covers for standard size tanks, and the front panes slide back for feeding quite easily.

On the issue of the airstone, I've forgotten why you think this is necessary. ??

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #103 of 127 Old 11-13-2010, 08:54 PM
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Byron, I was thinking from the picture that this tank came with the hood on it and I'd assumed that the light was in there, like on my aqua one tank.
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post #104 of 127 Old 11-14-2010, 04:03 AM
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Sorry to but in but my tank hasnt got a casing around teh bulb or ND Y GLASS BETWEEN WATER AND LIGHT? IS THIS A PROBLEM?

26 Gallon Community:
5 Platies

4 Mollies

3 Guppys

1 Swordtail
11 Neon Tetras
1 Red Tailed Shark
Opaline Gourami
BN Pleco
Snakes-
Coral: Rat X Corn
CoCo: Rat

R.I.P Saphire You'll always be in my heart






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post #105 of 127 Old 11-14-2010, 01:18 PM
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Sorry to but in but my tank hasnt got a casing around teh bulb or ND Y GLASS BETWEEN WATER AND LIGHT? IS THIS A PROBLEM?
In my view, the actual light tube/bulb should have a pane of glass between it and the water surface. Hoods that are made for tanks usually have a piece of plain glass under the light. If you buy a light fixture to place across the tank with tubes/bulbs in it, there should be a glass cover over the tank; most manufacturers will say this oin the instructions. Either way, water will not splash or condense on the light tube/bulb but on the glass, and fish will not jump onto the tube/bulb.

In open-top tanks specifically intended as such, for instance a plaudarium or vivarium or with plants growing into the air, the light can be suspended above so the tube/bulb will not likely be affected with water.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #106 of 127 Old 11-14-2010, 01:33 PM
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Mine definatley doesnt have a casing.. But nothing bad so far..

26 Gallon Community:
5 Platies

4 Mollies

3 Guppys

1 Swordtail
11 Neon Tetras
1 Red Tailed Shark
Opaline Gourami
BN Pleco
Snakes-
Coral: Rat X Corn
CoCo: Rat

R.I.P Saphire You'll always be in my heart






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post #107 of 127 Old 11-15-2010, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry guys havent checked my post in a couple of days and have got so many replies. Thanks everyone.

Tanker - I have got a 6" airstone at the moment, like the amazon link you posted.

Byron, you are making me nervous now :(. The lid came with the tank and fits into place. The electrical part of the lighting unit is ofcourse built into the hood and covered, but it's the tubes which are not covered by anything except for a plastic casing at the terminals. So any water which evaporates or sprinkles because of the air stone will go direct to the tubes :(, although i have kept the bubbles to as low as i can.

The only reason i got the airstone is, since i have a bit of plants, i'm using the spray output mode on my filter Fluval U3, which is apparently suited for plants. So i'm hoping a bit of bubbles from the air stone would cause some surface agitation in turn maintaining the necessary oxygen levels.

In terms of the glass pane, i'm not sure even if i get one, it'll be able to slide in properly between the hood and the tank top edge :(. Anyone else have the fluval roma tanks with this issue?

Byron, on another note, my plant leaves have brown spots all over them? help please!!!

Thanks
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post #108 of 127 Old 11-15-2010, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Also, i'm planning to get an external filter, currently looking at either a fluval 305 or 405. Do you think 405 will be too much for a 125 litre?
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post #109 of 127 Old 11-15-2010, 12:35 PM
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The lid came with the tank and fits into place.
I'd contact the manufacturer and ask them about the safety of the hood arrangement. As I said before, you'd expect them to have a safe arrangement in prefabricated tanks as they are sold to be used the way they are designed. They have an obligation to sell a safe product.

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In terms of the glass pane, i'm not sure even if i get one, it'll be able to slide in properly between the hood and the tank top edge
If your tank is anything like my prefab tank, I don't think so. My tank with the glass covers has a ledge around the top of the tank which supports the glass lid. My other tank with the plastic hood has no support for a glass top.

Another idea - how high is your water level? Maybe you could drop it a bit, if it's quite high.
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post #110 of 127 Old 11-15-2010, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Byron, on another note, my plant leaves have brown spots all over them? help please!!!
I need more info. What plant species to start with; and a photo of the entire plant would help.

Quote:
Also, i'm planning to get an external filter, currently looking at either a fluval 305 or 405. Do you think 405 will be too much for a 125 litre?
Unless you have need for more water flow due to the type of fish in the tank requiring more currents (some do, many do not), I recommend keeping the flow minimal in planted tanks. Plants and fish benefit. When selecting canister filters, I always buy the one rated for the size of tank. Then I use the spray bar to reduce the force, and I attach it across the end wall and aim it into the glass to further lessen the force directly into the tank. The filter intake at the opposite end of the tank creates a nice flow down the length of the tank which is usually adequate.

In the case of Fluval, the 205 is rated for up to 200 litres/40 US gallons. This would be the canister for your 125 L/33g. My 33g tank has a sponge filter which is adequate for the SE Asian Pond setup with very small still water fish. The Fluval 205 would allow more water movement, and again depending upon the fish you intend to have in the tank it should suffice.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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