filter killing my fish? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 15 Old 05-09-2012, 04:19 AM
jaysee this is the part i wanted to know =) [ The spraybar from a canister creates more than enough surface disturbance to facilitate this, assuming it's properly angled ]

5x2x2 aro,highfin bat,fei feng,ST,albino tinfoil,c.perch
4x1.5x1.5 planted tetras,harlequins,
otto,WMM,2 types of celebes rainbows,rcs,amano, bamboo,red ramhorns,MTS
3.5x2.5x2 flowerhorn,pleco
3x1.5x1.5 russel's lion,blue cleaner,sixline and leopard wrasse,maroon clown pair,green chromis,scorpion,tiger cowrie,turbo,lyretail anthias,jewel,anemone,star polyp,marbled and giant green mushi,zoa
2x1x1 nano sw shrimps
22 May 2012
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post #12 of 15 Old 05-09-2012, 06:04 PM
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Now I do use 2 canisters on the larger tanks, but the second one's spraybar is positioned vertically, so it really has a minimal effect on the aeration. It's got a huge effect on circulation. Rather than run a powerhead for circulation, I prefer to use a second canister as it's immensely more beneficial.

Many of my tanks are also very heavily stocked, so a lack of oxygen would manifest problems much sooner than a normal tank.

In fact, the surface disturbance is enough to kill off duckweed and frogbit, IME.

125 - BGK, chanchito cichlid, pictus cats, silver dollars, palmas bichir
125 - cichlids (severums, bolivian rams, chocolate), rainbows ( turquoise, red), loaches (angelicus, zebra, kuhli and horseface), plecos (BN, RL and clown), denison barbs, tiretrack eel, pearl gouramis, betta
90 - Congo tetras, african knife, upside down cats, spotted ctenopoma, kribensis, delhezzi bichir
2.5 - betta
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post #13 of 15 Old 05-10-2012, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysee View Post
Now I do use 2 canisters on the larger tanks, but the second one's spraybar is positioned vertically, so it really has a minimal effect on the aeration. It's got a huge effect on circulation. Rather than run a powerhead for circulation, I prefer to use a second canister as it's immensely more beneficial.

Many of my tanks are also very heavily stocked, so a lack of oxygen would manifest problems much sooner than a normal tank.

In fact, the surface disturbance is enough to kill off duckweed and frogbit, IME.
I have a marineland c-530 for my 125gal. How shoud I angle the spray head for the aeration you speak of? I do have a planted tank with an assortment of plants by the way.
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post #14 of 15 Old 05-10-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by CinBos View Post
I have a marineland c-530 for my 125gal. How shoud I angle the spray head for the aeration you speak of? I do have a planted tank with an assortment of plants by the way.
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You want minimal surface disturbance or the much-needed CO2 will be driven out of the tank. Water flow throughout the tank should be suited to the needs of the fish (some need more water movement, some much less). Without knowing the fish here, generally speaking in the normal planted tank you want a flow from one end to the other but not so strong that the plants sway/move in the current except obviously closest to the filter outflow. Java Fern are good plants for this spot as they can manage in stronger currents. I always direct the spraybar into the end glass wall, and angle it to get a slight ripple on the surface at that end but the main flow is down the wall and then down the tank length.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If youíre going to take it under your wing then youíre responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 15 Old 05-10-2012, 09:22 AM
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For large cichlids I would mount return flow at one end of the tank and the uptake at the other end.
I like to mount the spraybar or return nozzle much like byron suggest's but i don't aim it to hit glass first but rather mount it high on the end of the tank directing the flow slightly upwards to create rippling effect.
Have expierimented with my planted tank, and for me and the plant's and fishes I keep, Mounting the spray bar or return nozzle in middle of tank against the back glass so that flow hits the front glass, and travels down and then across the substrate and back up the back glass works best.I can sprinkle fish food and watch it reach both corner's of the tank which asures me that nutrient's are also reaching these area's and that there are no dead area's.
I mount the uptake/intake to the filter, at one end or the other on back glass.
Course the way I have it for the plant's is much different than the first way . First way ensures that majority of waste is delivered to the other end where uptake is located.
Second way seems to collect debri at the back of the tank but that's OK for I have plant's to utilize it.

The most important medication in your fish medicine cabinet is.. Clean water.

Last edited by 1077; 05-10-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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