A few questions about Cycling - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 14 Old 04-04-2013, 11:47 AM
Originally Posted by MonteCarlo View Post


If you check out my aquarium pic you can see my 10gal heavily planted NPT, mainly with anacharis (also have java moss, moss ball, crypts, cabomba, java fern). The messiness of the floor is a little distracting. But most of all, I don't like how the fast growers (anacharis/cabomba) eventually slow down in reproducing. Ive got stems in places that stopped growing, but i cant uproot it and replant new stems since itll cause dirt to go everywhere and ive read disturbing the surface is bad too. its definitely hard to maintain so many fast growers, which is why ill probably redo the tank WITH a filter and only slow growing crypts/java fern/moss

e/ I wish it were as simple as trimming the anacharis wherever and they'd just grow back. but they always have to form a new little sideshoot away from where you cut it, and eventually those sideshoot spots run out and the entire stem just stagnates.

After awhile the slow growers will expand and maintain the tank. The real value of the fast groweres is during the initial conditioning of the tank. Still I have anacharis in tank after years and years. I have taken out cabomba after a few years in a 10g tank that must have been over 10 foot long.

you could also try bacopa. It is sturdier and a bright green. It does however grow emersed. One club member here simply cuts it down when it gets too tall.

your 10g looks pretty good to me.

my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #12 of 14 Old 04-05-2013, 12:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you all for replying, I'm pretty much set.

I guess my last question which I hinted at early is if it is normal/needed to do water changes during the nitrite spike stage of the cycle. What level is dangerous for the bacteria to grow?

Since I'm so used to my planted tank doing all the work itself, I guess i should also ask what level of nitrates is harmful to fish once you actually see the nitrites drop too? Remember, I'm not gonna be putting any of my plants in the new 5gal. Maybe a few floaters after the cycle is done to suck up some nitrates...buts that about it.
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post #13 of 14 Old 04-05-2013, 05:08 PM
With the exception of man made pollution, nitrates are nearly unmeasurable in FW in nature. We should keep nitrates in our tanks as low as possible, lower the better, definitely <=20ppm.

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post #14 of 14 Old 04-05-2013, 09:39 PM
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So far I am able to hit a max of 5 ppm, with plants. The issue without plants is that all the ammonia becomes nitrites and all the nitrites become nitrates so you have to monitor it and stay ahead of it. Plants shunt most of the ammonia directly out of the loop so not much of the ammonia even hits the cycle. I would suggest that you get the floaters in off the start to reduce the cycle as much as possible... Plants are plants no matter where they reside and a lot of floaters can use ammonia and use some nitrates as well.


Total years fish keeping experience: 7 months, can't start counting in years for a while yet.

The shotgun approach to a planted tank with an LED fixture

Small scale nitrogen cycle with a jar, water and fish food; no substrate, filter etc
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