Day 13 Cycle Question - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 09:57 AM
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I have also read that adding salt, can make nitrites less toxic for your fish. I have not tried it myself, so I will leave it open for others to comment, if the benefits of adding salt would out weigh the negatives.

Sounds like you are doing all you can. Like Angel said, its impossible to put a date on when your tank will be cycled. All you can do for now, are your daily water changes and keep your fingers crossed for good test results. I can feel for you. Dumb me, did a fish in cycle on my 210 gal tank. I was able to seed the tank with some media, but still needed to do daily 50% water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite as low as possible. Talk about a high water bill that month!
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post #12 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 11:18 AM
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I would continue the present process. Daily (if needed to keep nitrite low) pwc with Prime. Very minimal feeding (alternate days). Nothing else. Establishing the nitrification cycle takes time and this varies from tank to tank. Prime is dealing with the ammonia, and apparently nitrite.

Salt is said to work with nitrite, but one has to assess the downside. With cichlids they would be less stressed by salt that some fish, but is that worth it? They are already under stress from the nitrite and in a weakened state. I would recommend continuing the afore-mentioned program and not adding further stress. The one fish may be too far affected internally to survive. Fish have varying tolerance levels, and like humans, some are stronger than others against adverse conditions. Ammonia and nitrite poisoning cause internal damage, or can, and sometimes this only manifests itself months down the road. It can weaken the fish, leaving them open to other unrelated issues long-term. Stable water conditions should be the goal now and continuing.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #13 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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well I ended up doing a 50% water change last night and adding prime with it. I tested this morning and the levels are still ammonia .5, nitrite 1.0

I can't get the nitrite to go down even with the 50% water change. I have no clue what to do, just keep changing the water each day and how much is safe 50% or less? I don't want to stop the cycle process but also want to help the fish if possible.
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post #14 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 11:52 AM
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well I ended up doing a 50% water change last night and adding prime with it. I tested this morning and the levels are still ammonia .5, nitrite 1.0

I can't get the nitrite to go down even with the 50% water change. I have no clue what to do, just keep changing the water each day and how much is safe 50% or less? I don't want to stop the cycle process but also want to help the fish if possible.
Provided you use a good water conditioner (you are), and there is no disparity in water parameters (pH, hardness, temperature) a partial water change up to even 90% will not harm the fish. Just don't disturb the surfaces when you do them. Bacteria colonize every hard surface, tank walls, each grain of gravel, filter media, plant leaves, decor...just change the water and this will not be affected.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #15 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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is it normal to not have the levels like nitrite drop after a large water change? u think it would cut the readings in half
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post #16 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 12:05 PM
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is it normal to not have the levels like nitrite drop after a large water change? u think it would cut the readings in half
Have you tested your tap water for nitrite? Some municipal water does contain nitrite, as some contains ammonia and some nitrate, individually or together. Let the tap water sit for 12 hours before testing.

B.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 12:07 PM Thread Starter
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I just noticed the yellow lab that is just sitting at the bottom has a swollen stomach area, pretty noticeable. Any idea what this could be and anything that should be done?
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post #18 of 18 Old 12-12-2009, 12:56 PM
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is it normal to not have the levels like nitrite drop after a large water change? u think it would cut the readings in half
It's possible your levels were dropped after the wc than rose back up within the 12 hours or so that you tested. Sorry to hear about your fish. Just hang in there and keep doing what you're doing. It's been my experience that nitrites seem to take forever then suddenly... boom, your levels are 0 and you're cycled. Do you know anyone else with a mature fish tank you can get some filter media or a cup of gravel from? Or maybe ask your LFS.

150 Gallon - Mostly American Cichlids
135 Gallon - Angelfish Community
75 Gallon - Odd couple (Polleni/Angelfish)
55 Gallon - African tank
20 Gallon Long - QT
10 Gallon - Empty
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