Cycling advice - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 41 Old 02-22-2014, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Just done a water test and the results are.
Ph 7.6
Ammonia 4.0 ppm
Nitrite. 0 ppm
Nitrate. 0 ppm. The colour was slightly darker than 0 but not 5ppm. So reading it as lower
Hopefully will see some nitrite and then nitrate level move soon to show cycle is progressing.
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post #12 of 41 Old 02-22-2014, 05:54 PM
if you are testing regularly, you will see a decline in ammonia and a sharp spike in nitrite. after that process you should then eventually get readings of 0 ammonia 0 nitrite and some amount of nitrate.

if your ammonia goes above 4ppm you should do a small partial water change to keep the lever around 4ppm. higher amounts can stall your cycle.

be patient, the worse thing you can do is rush and mess things up.
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post #13 of 41 Old 02-23-2014, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Have replaced 1/4 if the water (15 litres) and treated the whole tank with tap safe.
Will leave it to settle before re testing the water
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post #14 of 41 Old 02-23-2014, 12:54 PM
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Your cycle has started! Couple weeks or so and you should be thru. Keep posting test results every other day or so please so we can track your progress and offer any advice. Your ph should be perfect for cycling.
Good luck!

"Be the change you want to see in the world."
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post #15 of 41 Old 02-23-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Will do thanks for the advice
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post #16 of 41 Old 02-25-2014, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Just done another water test results are.

Ph 7.6
Ammonia 2 - 4 ppm
Nitrite. 2ppm
Nitrate. 5ppm

Looks like the cycle has got underway
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post #17 of 41 Old 02-25-2014, 03:20 PM
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Perfect!
Great numbers for such a young cycle. Looks like you will not have to wait long till your biologicaly stable. Just time for your bacterial colonies to grow larger. Were looking for your ammonia to dissapear with a corresponding spike in nitrite. Keep feeding the tank, two flakes per day, if your cycle is robust this will not raise ammonia levels.
After nitrite spikes, we should see nitrate readings begin to rise steadily.
When nitrite readings begin to drop and nitrate continues to accumulate, you'll know your almost stable. Keep feeding the tank, but dont add fish till nitrite falls to 0. Once nitrite and ammonia are 0 and nitrate is being produced, you should do a large water change to reduce nitrate to acceptable levels. A mature stable tank should have readings of ammonia0, nitrite0, nitrate 10-40 with no spikes of ammonia or nitrite, and steady, gradual accumulation of nitrate.

You've got a classic succesful cycle started, no need to do anything but wait. Once you start producing nitrate, you're close, so just wait till your other readings are 0

"Be the change you want to see in the world."
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post #18 of 41 Old 02-25-2014, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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That's great thank you
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post #19 of 41 Old 02-25-2014, 04:12 PM
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I have never used the tetra safestart of api quickstart. Do they actually work ok? And how often do you have to do water changes?
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post #20 of 41 Old 02-25-2014, 07:13 PM
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Tetra Safestart and API Quickstart work well, as long as the product has never been frozen or overheated in shipping and has not sat on the shelf more than, say, 6-months.

That also applies to Microbelift Niteout II, API Colony, Dr Tim's One-and-Only and other similar products which contain live nitrifying bacteria. A long shelf-life or temperature insensitivity indicates that the product does not contin live bacteria.

Regardless of manufacturers instructions, large (50%) water changes should be performed whenever ammonia or nitrite rise above 0.25ppm ---assuming the tank is stocked.
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