Cyanobacteria in the freshwater planted aquarium - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 104 Old 03-07-2013, 05:30 PM
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This is an image of cyanobacteria in my local Petco tank. Its why I don't buy plants or fish from them. Its normally greener bit its the greenish brown stuff on the base of the plant and on the gravel. When you touch it it free floats in a sheet. I had it in my 10 gallon because i had 6 white cloud mountain minnows and their 27 babies in the tank. While I did good water changes the hikari baby fish powder was also partially to blame. I did a whole box of EM and kept up on water changes as directed on box and it cleared up
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post #12 of 104 Old 03-07-2013, 06:18 PM
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Try killing the lights and suspending feeding until the cyano dies off.

Then resume with less lighting (duration) and feeding and adjust until the plants thrive but not the cyano/algae.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #13 of 104 Old 03-07-2013, 08:02 PM
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Mikey, is what you had the same as what is showing in the photo Aurie posted? Because that is cyanobacteria. It is slimy, easily comes off with your fingers, will stain your fingers and anything else green, etc. In my tank is was much brighter green, but cyano can be red, green, almost black, or anything between.

You will have better results when the plants are fuller; right now they are minimal so not doing a lot with respect to nutrients/organics.

And here I must mention the soil. This is usually a high source of organics, depending upon where it came from. It would not surprise me at all if the cyano is due to the soil leeching organics into the water. Not suggesting pulling it out, but only pointing out this likely source. Again, more plants or increased plant growth should help.

I would reduce the light duration down to 8 hours daily. I would also increase the water changes to at least half the tank volume once weekly. The issue with both suggestions is to limit the light and organics to prevent cyano from taking hold. There has to be a balance, and clearly this is not occurring (assuming cyano is the issue).

Byron.
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Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #14 of 104 Old 03-07-2013, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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YES, thank you Byron I think you've helped me figure it out. I also believe that my culprit is the soil under the sand, I mixed my Eco complete with this expensive supposedly real fertile volcanic soil I bought at my LFS. I think it's a little too fertile LoL. I was really noticing the cyano at the base of some of my plants. It is a light green color like in the picture and where it was more concentrated it was a bit darker and slimy looking. Stinks too. I could smell it when I had removed it to my bucket.
So thank you soo much for your help and everyone else who has been trying to help me. I will try what you said and remove more water, add a bit more plants and let the ones I already have get abit bigger. Thank you!

Mikey.
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post #15 of 104 Old 03-08-2013, 02:54 AM
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Also - Cyano makes your tank STINK like a swamp. I did my water change and OMG my roomate had to leave the room as I dumped the water outside my living room door (for my rose bushes) .. When your tank stinks worse than PRIME then you know you have a problem LOL.. ok it's not a laughing matter, but it was in my case. I gassed out my roomate without even farting hehe

As of 02/02/14: 5.5 Gallon NPT - Plat ----------------29 gallon - Awaiting bleach bombing and selling
46 gallon bow - 5 glass cats, 6 kuhlii loaches, 2 rasboras, 1 parkinsoni rainbow, 8 White Tip Tetras, 1 bristlenose pleco, 5 julii corydoras, 1 bolivian ram, 7 neon tetras , 2 female sunset gouramis, 10 dainty corydoras, shrimp and snails
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post #16 of 104 Old 03-08-2013, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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I know what you mean Aurie, I went and dumped that stinky crap out in my backyard. Good fertilizer lol.

Mikey.
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post #17 of 104 Old 03-25-2013, 08:03 AM
I am having the same issue but i think mine was induced by light. I was having minimal algae problems before, but i went out of town with my band for the weekend on the 15th and 16th. Came back to discover i left the timer on "on" not "timer". I had turned the lights on early Friday before leaving trying to make sure everything would be okay while i was gone and i just made it all worse.

So i am feeding daily with hardly any food making it to the bottom. Water changes are either every day to every other day depending on how much "slime" accumulates. With it just run its course eventually? Should i remove plants and clean them as the slime does not just slide right off them or the lava rock? Thanks in advance.
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post #18 of 104 Old 03-25-2013, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xfatdannx View Post
I am having the same issue but i think mine was induced by light. I was having minimal algae problems before, but i went out of town with my band for the weekend on the 15th and 16th. Came back to discover i left the timer on "on" not "timer". I had turned the lights on early Friday before leaving trying to make sure everything would be okay while i was gone and i just made it all worse.

So i am feeding daily with hardly any food making it to the bottom. Water changes are either every day to every other day depending on how much "slime" accumulates. With it just run its course eventually? Should i remove plants and clean them as the slime does not just slide right off them or the lava rock? Thanks in advance.

I would not remove live plants.

As stated before just kill the light and suspend feedings. The cyano will die off providing nutrients for the plants. So you rebalance the tank. The resuming your original lighting will help assure the cyano stays away and the plant thrive.


my .02

maintain Fw and marine system with a strong emphasis on balanced, stabilized system that as much as possible are self substaning.

have maintained FW systems for up to 9 years with descendants from original fish and marine aquariums for up to 8 years.

With no water changes, untreated tap water, inexpensive lighting by first starting the tank with live plants (FW) or macro algae( marine)

see: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/a...-build-295530/
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post #19 of 104 Old 03-25-2013, 10:45 AM
i just did a 50% water change and tried to remove by hand...will let you know what happens...also cutting my light down by 1 hour at the end of the day.
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post #20 of 104 Old 03-25-2013, 01:24 PM
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As I have said previously here and in other threads, cyanobacteria is caused by high organics. Obviously light has to be present. But without reducing organics you will not be able to remove cyano.

If I read your post correctly, the light was left on for several days. Cyano is the least of your worries. Light 24/7 is highly stressful on fish, as it deprives them of the needed period of complete darkness. You can read more here if interested:
http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/f...er-fish-81982/

It is very common for fish to come down with ich (white spot) under such circumstances, so keep a very close eye out. Ich is caused by stress, and in this case stress occurs due to the continual light.

Back to the cyano. Do water changes, vacuum the substrate, remove as much as you can with your fingers (prior to the water change, as it falls to the substrate and can be siphoned off). Feed sparingly. Don't add plant fertilizers for a couple weeks.

Byron.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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