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Converting a Marine tank to a Tropical Tank, Advice needed

12K views 3 replies 4 participants last post by  GregV 
#1 ·
Dear Members

I am in Australia and have just bought a 4ftx2ftx2ft fish tank :D .

It was an expensive custom built 12mm thick marine tank with all the bells and whistles it has the actitic blue lights and halogens the turning filter in a 2 ft glass tank underneath in the stained glass door cabinet.

The fellow told me it was fine to go back to freshwater tropical - he took out the live rock for me saying this would ruin my PH he seemed very knowledgeable, but what do I have to do now :oops: ?

We brought it home and put it together and my husband filled it up with the hose (the water did not smell chloriney).

I have not washed the sand on the filter out as the fellow told me it was important not to but surely this means the water is going to be brackish - should I do lots of water changes - if so should I use aged water?

We would like to buy fish that are hardy but colourful. When can we buy them should I buy them to assist cycle - the tank is huge compared to what I have had before I am a little daunted?

Could someone give me or direct me to a list of steps (sort of like a recipe!!!!!) on this site that I can follow on how to change my marine tank at the point I am at now to a tropical tank.

I have had a tropical tank in the past and enjoyed it immensely for many years, my husband wants to go Marine but serously we dont have the capability of looking after marine and we live in the country and cannot really access lots of stock of Marine anyway.

Julie :?:
 
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#2 ·
Welcome to Fishforum.com, Julie.:wave:

What sand was used by the fellow when he had marine? I would assume this sand may buffer your pH. If washed thoroughly, it should not increase the salinity too much.

You'll need ammonia to start fishless cycling which is less cruel than using a fish to cycle the tank with. There's a sticky thread guide by fish_4_all on cycling.:) Danios and platies pretty much are often used to cycle the tank but this method also shortens their lifespan due to stress and physical damage done by the presence of toxic substances such as ammonia and nitrites. If you want to use fish, don't buy female platies unless you want your tank overloaded with their fry.

Use API liquid test kit to determine your ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and pH regularly. This part is very important. You want zero ammonia and nitrites in the end with nitrates not exceeding 40 ppm. Both ammonia and nitrites are quite toxic to the fish.

Are you going to plan for live plants? Vallisnerias, Java moss, Elodea densa, Nymphaea lotus, cabombas, ambulias and Hygrophila polysperma are good to start with. Avoid Lemna minor as these are quite invasive and a pain to control with.

As for fish, stroll around your local pet stores and let us know which fish you want. There are hundreds of available out there. We always make sure people make a list of fish they see so we can help them sort out everything.

Hmmm..That's all I can think as of now.:lol: Please don't hesitate to ask more questions.:) Good luck.;)
 
#3 ·
hi and welcome.
interesting question about the filter,
i would also like to know,because on fresh water tanks
i didn't think that a sump was used ??
so in which case does Julie need to buy another filter,
as i would have thought that all Marine equipment
would not be needed ?????
i take it that there are power heads and a protein skimmer.
 
#4 ·
sumps can be used on freshwater tanks, which can be nice, you can buy a bunch of small biowheels, carbon bags, and bioballs and float them in the sump, and have your own massive filter, you can also add a canister filter to the intake on the tank and have it go through the canister after the sump.
 
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