Complicated Cycling Situation - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources
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post #11 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Termato View Post
Females. The males will be more likely to fight one another.

The thing is when you buy them...their usually already pregnant...unless you get them real small.
If they are pregnant, will they eat their fry?
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post #12 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 09:32 PM
After 3 months your tank should be well cycled. But since your tank water continues to test the same as your tap water, it suggests you just might be unknowingly doing something that interferes with beneficial bacteria colony development.
What do you have for a substrate?
What kind of filter do you have?
Do you have any bio-media in the filter?
How are you servicing the filter? Are you careful not to use tap water for filter components?
Are you using a good conditioner for water changes that ensures no chlorine is getting into the system?

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post #13 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 09:37 PM Thread Starter
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After 3 months your tank should be well cycled. But since your tank water continues to test the same as your tap water, it suggests you just might be unknowingly doing something that interferes with beneficial bacteria colony development.
What do you have for a substrate?
What kind of filter do you have?
Do you have any bio-media in the filter?
How are you servicing the filter? Are you careful not to use tap water for filter components?
Are you using a good conditioner for water changes that ensures no chlorine is getting into the system?
Substrate=gravel
My filter is a Marineland Bio-Wheel Power Filter Penguin 100(filters 100 gallons per hour)
Filter has a bio-wheel which I've never touched
Yes pure tap water has never touched my filter. Either dirty tank water or dechlorinated tap water.
I use Big Al's Water condition. Big Al's is the name of the aquarium store.

Last edited by rolo; 03-25-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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post #14 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 09:41 PM
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If they are pregnant, will they eat their fry?
It doesn't matter if they are pregnant. If the fry are small enough the mothers will eat them.

What I do is just put hornwort or some kind of stem plant floating on the top so the fry can hide. the more hiding places, the more chances they have to live. They will resort to hiding in the gravel...and nearly anywhere to stay alive...sometimes causing their own deaths. Fry are complicated and are a pain. They grow up quick if you feed them...and they over populate you in a matter of months...unless you sell them.
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post #15 of 65 Old 03-25-2012, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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It doesn't matter if they are pregnant. If the fry are small enough the mothers will eat them.

What I do is just put hornwort or some kind of stem plant floating on the top so the fry can hide. the more hiding places, the more chances they have to live. They will resort to hiding in the gravel...and nearly anywhere to stay alive...sometimes causing their own deaths. Fry are complicated and are a pain. They grow up quick if you feed them...and they over populate you in a matter of months...unless you sell them.
Thanks.
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post #16 of 65 Old 03-26-2012, 12:03 PM
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I was thinking 2 males and 6 females. But back to my first post, why am I still getting that 0.50ppm of ammonia? My nitrites are 0ppm and my nitrates are at 5.0ppm which from what I've read is a healthy number. Why won't my ammonia hit 0? I am also using the API Freshwater Test Kit. And it's weird because 0.50ppm ammonia is also the reading of my tap water.
Quickly on the livebearers, I would only have males, they are more colourful. Females will be impregnated by males very early on unless they are separated soon by the breeder.

To the ammonia. You said earlier that your tap water has .5 ammonia, so that is where it is coming from. When this occurs, the ammonia should disappear after a couple days because the bacteria will take it up and plants will assimilate it even faster if you have live plants. The initial influx of ammonia at the water change can be handled by using a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. Big Al's does not; it only detoxifies chlorine and chloramine. There are several conditioners that handle ammonia, they will say so on the label. However, my first recommendation would be to get some live plants, particularly floating plants. They use a lot of ammonia as their nitrogen source, and with only .5 ammonia in the tap water sufficient plants should manage to deal with this within a day.

Byron Hosking, BMus, MA
Vancouver, BC, Canada

The aquarist is one who must learn the ways of the biologist, the chemist, and the veterinarian. [unknown source]

Something we all need to remember: The fish you've acquired was quite happy not being owned by you, minding its own business. If you’re going to take it under your wing then you’re responsible for it. Every aspect of its life is under your control, from water quality and temperature to swimming space. [Nathan Hill in PFK]
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post #17 of 65 Old 03-26-2012, 01:08 PM
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Quickly on the livebearers, I would only have males, they are more colourful. Females will be impregnated by males very early on unless they are separated soon by the breeder.

To the ammonia. You said earlier that your tap water has .5 ammonia, so that is where it is coming from. When this occurs, the ammonia should disappear after a couple days because the bacteria will take it up and plants will assimilate it even faster if you have live plants. The initial influx of ammonia at the water change can be handled by using a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. Big Al's does not; it only detoxifies chlorine and chloramine. There are several conditioners that handle ammonia, they will say so on the label. However, my first recommendation would be to get some live plants, particularly floating plants. They use a lot of ammonia as their nitrogen source, and with only .5 ammonia in the tap water sufficient plants should manage to deal with this within a day.
I'd listen to him lol. Thanks Byron!
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post #18 of 65 Old 03-26-2012, 04:00 PM
As Byron suggests, ammonia in your tap water will show up if you test after a water change. Instead of big al's conditioner (nothing against big al) I suggest you use Seachem Prime as in addition to handling chlorine and chlormine, it detoxifies ammonia, nitrtites and nitrates as well as heavy metals for 24 - 48 hours (which typically gives your beneficial biology time to process).

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post #19 of 65 Old 03-27-2012, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
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Quickly on the livebearers, I would only have males, they are more colourful. Females will be impregnated by males very early on unless they are separated soon by the breeder.

To the ammonia. You said earlier that your tap water has .5 ammonia, so that is where it is coming from. When this occurs, the ammonia should disappear after a couple days because the bacteria will take it up and plants will assimilate it even faster if you have live plants. The initial influx of ammonia at the water change can be handled by using a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. Big Al's does not; it only detoxifies chlorine and chloramine. There are several conditioners that handle ammonia, they will say so on the label. However, my first recommendation would be to get some live plants, particularly floating plants. They use a lot of ammonia as their nitrogen source, and with only .5 ammonia in the tap water sufficient plants should manage to deal with this within a day.
Thanks a lot Byron. I will pick up a live plant tomorrow and see if I can find a better conditioner as well.
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post #20 of 65 Old 03-29-2012, 05:33 AM Thread Starter
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Also, would you guys recommend I get something to make my water not cloudy?
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